hammer531
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Posts posted by hammer531
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<p>downloaded new versions of capture NXD and ViewNX-i . View installed fine but Capture will not . Keep getting message saying it will not run on my system . Never had trouble with older version . I use Windows 8.1 .</p>
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<p>Go to nikonshuttercount.com and follow the directions . You must use an unaltered jpeg .</p>
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<p>Could this be the camera trying to advance the film to the first frame ? I believe this was a feature of the F801 .</p>
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<p>My camera is a Nikon D-200 .</p>
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<p>Is there a website where I can look up the year my camera was made ?</p>
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<p>I just went on the Travor website and they don't list a battery grip for the Nikon Df .</p>
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<p>I don't know if this has anything to do with the camera you got , but didn't Cameta recently file for bankcruptcy . They just might be trying to dump stock .</p>
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Nikon MF-25
in Nikon
<p>Try looking into a product called 303 Aerospace Protectant . I believe it can be found on line and in Marine specialty stores .</p> -
<p>How about the Nikon 18-105mm VR . It's a little slower but image quality is said to be pretty good .</p>
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<p>I know neither computer will show NEF files . But the one with windows XP will show pictures with JPEGs only some of the time . I wonder if this has something to the fact that I am running Windows XP in 32bit mode . If I have just a few files it will show the picture but if I am downloading , say 25 files , it only shows the generic icon .</p>
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<p>I have two computers also . One with windows XP ( 32 bit ) and one with windows 7 ( 64 bit ) . The one with XP will show the generic icon maybe 50% of the time . Majority of my photos are jpegs . Neither computer will show actual pictures with nef files .</p>
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<p>custom setting A7 was off , turned it back on and everything is fine .Just don't recall shutting it off. Thanks for the quick responses .</p>
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<p>I just went back over all my AF settings and AF area illumination was off but I really don't remember changing anything . My wife says I'm loosing my mind , maybe she has a point . Thanks for the suggestion , Shun .</p>
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<p>I have a nikon D200 . I recently took several pictures and everythig was fine . About an hour later I went to take some more shots and I noticed that the focus brackets in the view finder were no longer lighting up to indicate my point of focus . Nothing was changed between the two instances . Photos all appear to be in focus , focus confirmation light lites up , however the focus bracket does not . Has anyone else ever had this problem ?</p>
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<p>On the D200 none of those screws are there but even so I would think it would take quite an impact to rip it off without doing some other damage .</p>
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<p>I am not sure of your problem . I just checked my D200 which uses the same DK-21 eyepiece . The eyepiece uses a rubber cushion attached with two <em>screws , </em>the whole unit just slides onto a grooved mount surrounding the viewfinder . The mount itself seems to be one piece with the entire top plate of the camera . I can not find any rivets any where .</p>
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<p>Not interested in the cameras but my brand new in the box FE (the first year it was out )came with <br>
one of those crappy push-on body caps . </p>
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<p>Several years ago i bought an FG that the owner said had a problem with the mirror being stuck in the up position . The price was only $20.00 . When i got it , I pulled the mirror down and noticed that the foam cushion was sticky . I replaced the cushion and never had any problems since then .</p>
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<p>I always thought that the reason for using an L-plate was that when you switch from horizontal to vertical the lens remained in the same spot . When you flop the camera over using the slot on the ball head the lens shifts position and tou have to recompose .</p>
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<p>If youare doing landscapes you aare probably using a tripod , so you may not need the 2.8 but on the other hand you might need the wider view . Not owning either lenss I would most likely go with ths Sigma .</p>
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<p>How about a dab of loctite thread lock placed on the release thread ?</p>
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<p>The chances of having two lens go bad at the same time is very small . Hence the advice to clean the electrical contacts on the camera . If this does not solve the problem then pehaps the fault is in the electronic connections on the camera not the lens .</p>
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<p>1. The difference between the md11 and md12 is basically internal. The connection are the same , I've used both on my FE .It should work the same on your FM2 .<br>
2. The E3 screen is brighter and you should adjust exposure 1 or 2 stops depending on you preference .</p>
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<p>Cameraleather does offer their basic black in full size sheets. Perhaps if you called them they could do the same in one of the other styles . The only problem would be that the original rubber grips are much thicker than the leather used to cover the older cameras .</p>
Hate the new forum interface.
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