mike_tornero

<p>One thing to double check is if your using an IS lens you need to turn it off becuase your eliminating vibration by using a tripod. If you leave it on while your camera is on the tripod the lens will be trying to stabilize your shot resulting in a bit of blur.<br>

Hope this helps.</p>

<p>Terry,<br>

I have never had them scan my film since I scan mine myself. So I cant comment on how well they scan. Sorry.</p>

<p>Hi Terry,<br>

I use Tempe Camera to process all my film. I have been sending my stuff there for about a year now for around two hundred rolls and all have come back in great condition. For $3.40 a roll of C-41 I havent seen a price better than that. They are based out of Tempe, Arizona and their website is <a href="http://www.tempecamera.biz">www.tempecamera.biz</a>. No mailers required just send them your film with instructions and they take care of it from there. Calling them first is never a bad idea though.<br>

Mike</p>

<p>I like to use the 37mm fisheye for the RZ67 it can give objects a intresting look.<br>

<img src="http://michaeltornero.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p990384354-4.jpg" alt="" width="357" height="467" /></p>

<p>Jeff- Thats a great idea. I never thought to try that. The only thing is that I do not have a 35mm camera. I have a Mamiya RZ67 and the 140mm lens that has macro capabilities. Would that work? The film is larger, would that help with resolution?</p>

<p>Thanks everyone I really appreciate. I think ill try scanning them using a flatbed scanner and see how they turn out. <br>

Thanks again.<br>

Mike</p>

<p>Hello everyone, I have come accros some disk negatives about a hundred or so and I have no idea what to do with them. I went searching online and found a few places that still scans and prints them but they charge around $10-25 a disk and that could get expensive. So, is there a way that I can scan them myself? Or does anyone else have experience with this format?<br>

Any advice would be appreciated.<br>

Thank you very much.<br>

Mike</p>

<p>I appreciate everyone's response but the lighting technique that my instructor wanted us to do is called MOONLIGHT STROBE. This is done at or around noon thats 12 during the day. I will post the sheet that had the directions just in case you are curious and ill post my attempt. The idea is to over power the sun for a breif second with the flash. This would make your flash your key light and the sun your fill. I metered the sun hitting my subject and then (as the directions indicated) metered my flash to be 2 stops brighter. This technique is common for band photos that ive seen.</p>

<p>Thanks again, Mike</p>

<p>Hello everyone, I am doing a outdoor portrait photo using the moonlight strobe technique for my class and im not sure exactly how to accomplish this effect. I have my notes from class, however I was wondering if anyone else has had experience with this lighting technique and has and advice since this will be the first time I am attempting the style of lighting.<br>

Also if anyone has some pointers on where to look for some info on the internet. I have search about everything I can think of and have not been successful.<br>

Any images of this technique would be appreciated.<br>

Thank you very much for your help.<br>

Mike</p>

<p>Hello, I am currious to know if anyone has had experience with the RZ67 or RB67 and shooting infrared film. I know what most manufacturers will put a red knotch on their lenses to indicate where you should set your lens. On all my lenses and on the body of my RZ67 there are no such marking to indicate how to focus it for the infrared spectrum. Does anyone have an idea or know how to focus for this type of film using the the RZ67?<br>

Thank you to all who reply. Im not sure if this question would be better off in the film forum or not but any help would be appreciated.<br>

Mike</p>

<p>Jonathan- Thank you for providing me with numerous solutions and ways to work out the problem. I checked and double check all the things you mentioned and unfortunatly the problem still exists. I did notice that I would get a better chance of cocking both the shutter and advancing the film when I pushed the cocking lever in a certain manner. This is more of an annoyance to have to push the lever twice instead of once but the camera still works. <br>

Once again thank you very much you were a lot of help and I appreciate it.<br>

Mike.</p>

<p>I purchased a used Mamiya RZ67 Profesional not the ProII from KEH.com and then purchased the 120 back and WLF seperately. When using the camera (film loaded) and pushing down on the cocking lever all the way forward I still get the orange light (the one on the right) indicating the shutter is not cocked. I then press the cocking lever forward again and I do not feel any tension till the very end. After cocking it twice only then will it fire. Even though I cocked it twice the film does not advance on the second stroke. this happens randomly sometimes I must cock it twice and others it will work fine after the first time. Should I be concerned about this? It doesnt mention this process in the manual and this is my first experience with this camera. If anyone knows about this process or has had experience with this I would like to know?<br>

Thank you, Mike.</p>

Hello everyone Im current a student and im taking a photography class on lighting and I have been wanting to use my Mamiya c330f and

I've been told that if I have it set on X and have a sync cord I will be able to use it with the studio's strobes. My question is about the

shutter speed I use. I've been told that I should use either 1/30 or 1/60 (the person wasn't sure). The manual (at least the one I have and

the one I found online) does not specify. With my 40D I use 1/125 and I was told that is the speed I should always use. The strobes they

have are Profoto and Elinchrom I am not sure on the exact model.

Any info would be great and I thank you in advance.

Mike Tornero

Im wondering if anyone has any experience with or has any imput about the Art Institute's photography program. I

am very interested in taking classes there and obtaining my bachelors in photography with them. however, the one

thing holding me back is that it will cost me 80,000 at the end with all the student loans and with no guarantee of a

job. So im curious to see if anyone has gone through the program or has any imput about them. Its a lot of money

but i've taken a tour of the campus and it seems really legit. I currently live in Las Vegas, Nevada and its the only

Bachelors in photography in my area with out moving away. Also if anyone knows of any alternatives for a degree in

photography I would be delighted to know about them.

Thank you for your time.

Mike Tornero