r._a._haentzler

How much are you compressing the JPEG? If you are saving it as a 2 or 3 rather than a 10-12, you have to expect some consequences from the small size.

I save them as large as possible, the jpeg files are sometimes 10mgs.

I could use some advice. I shoot raw, using professional equipment. Lately, when I take a raw file, I do my post processing in PS. I then save the raw file as a psd file. I then will "save as" the file as a jpg to post to my website for the client to view, but the jpg is noticably less sharp compared than the psd file. I can't understand why. Thanks in advance for the help.

<p>One of the photos I took at a session, I made the mistake of cropping too tight in the camera, thus when I try and crop for an 8x10, the top or bottom will be cut off. Please help. I use PS CC.</p>

<p>I know it is not always possible but I would try to look for open shade, or back light the whole scene, giving it a bit of a high key affect. Just my thoughts initially.</p>

<p>I didn't notice the noise till it was printed at MPIX, (not suggested a problem with them). I did two of the large prints one of a baseball player with the sun behind him and the soccer gal, with the sun in her face, and the soccer one had the d. noixe or maybe it was pixelation?????? Not sure what that is. The way I created the file was to go to photo shop(I shoot raw), do my thing in there, the noise plug in, then a few other adjustments, then I use unsharp mask, then upload to MPIX and choose what size print I need. Still open for suggestons. Not sure how to insert the image on here sorry.</p><div></div>

<p>I take a fair amount of sports pictures at high school games for parents. Help me out with a question please. On the outdoor events, I am shooting with iso 100 or 200, usually at 2.8, with Canon 7D. Occasionally when I have to do large prints, 20 x 30, I have getting more noise that I think I should. I do use an Imagenomic plug in to reduce the noise. Mainly the prints with the noise are shots where the sun is in fact directly to a degree in the athlete's face. Is this the reason for the noise being present or is that size print just going to have at least some noise. Open for some advice please. Thanks.</p>

 

<p>Here is the image I was referring to.</p>

<p>I use PS CS3.</p>

<p>I suppose we have all done it. Well maybe not but I did. Was taking a small group shot and I composed to closely. Now when I try and print an 8 x 10, it is not good. The crop is just too tight for the 8x10. I know I could just sell them an 8x12, but they want an 8x10. I can't figure out how to increase the canvas size appropriately. Please advise. Thanks.</p>

<p>I have a shoot upcoming for an extended family. 11 people total, ranging from grandma to great grand kids. I have a location that works, nice open shade, not deep in the shade. I do have another location in mind but that would be more in the deep shade. My questions is, with a group that size I am assuming my off camera 580 EX flash just won't be powerful enough, or am I wrong. I do have two bowen 400 Gemini strobes. If I go that route and decide to use a strobe, placing it a bit to my left or right, so not to create any facial shadows, would one be enough or should I use both strobes feather from left and from the right? Advice appreciated.</p>

<p>I don't know about an overlay, the photos simply appear to be shot wide open, at 2.8 or 1.8. </p>

<p>Not sure how many high school events you attend Charles, but many times you pay your money to enter the gym and you don't even get a ticket. Also, I am using the term public since my taxes go towards the school district. </p>

<p>Correct me if I am wrong on this please--There is a local business in the area that wants to purchase some prints from me that I have taken at public sporting events. High school events. This is a retail business and it would be good for my photography business for sure since many people will be in this office and see the prints with my company name on the bottom. I am assuming since I own the rights to these pictures, I can sell them to whoever wants to buy them and display them. Am I correct?</p>

<p>Matt, yes the composition will be portrait, head to toe. So if I understand that chart correctly, and use my 2.8 at 70mm I will have a "safe" dept of field of about 1.5 feet. Which should not be a problem for 3 people standing side by side since more than likely they will be in a somewhat perpendicular to my camera lense. Right?</p>

<p>My upcoming assignment for work will be to go to a local football game, on senior night, and get a shot of each high school senior athlete, with his parent(s). This will be done on the field with a rather cluttered background (unavoidable). My first thought is the 1.8 to blur as much of the background as possible. Should have enough available light to do this without flash. My question, can or will all 3 subjects be able to be somewhat sharp with the 1.8, or should I used a different aperture such as 2.8 or higher. I will be shooting with a Canon 7D. Thanks for reading and I would appreciate opinions. </p>

<p>I usually don't make this mistake but darned if I didn't crop a group too tightly. Not having a difficult time getting my 8x10 print. How do I fix this. Please helpppppppppppp.</p>

<p>Hey Henry, used your feathering technique and I am pleased with the results. Didn't have to do a group of 10, just smaller groups and individual shots, will post a pic for you to see later. Do have one on my homepage, gatewayphoto.net.</p>

<p>Actually it is closer to the former, 10 youngsters, none of them past 6 grade. I was concerned the lighting would be too flat if I just used one umbrella about the camera axis. May try it both ways. Your thoughts?</p>

<p>Thanks Henry for the input. I will feather the lights as you have suggested and adjust location more toward the axis of the camera to see how that looks. I have never had to photograph that large a group in my small studio so trying to do my homework.</p>

<p>Matt: Thanks for the response. I have attatched a shot of my basic home studio. At least I hope it attatched. The strobes are both about 9 feet from that stool so I am assuming using the strobes at the same power should work but again, open to suggestions.<img src="home studio" alt="" /></p><div></div>

<p>Been doing well using my Bowen gm 400 for senior portraits using a large reflector. My question pertains to an upcoming group of 10 young kids that I will be photographing in my studio. I now have two Bowen 400's, I am just wondering if I should have them both set on the same power so the whole group is lit evenly or am I off base and should I be using one of them a stop or two less, making one the main light. Advice appreciated.</p>

<p>Been shooting alot of basketball lately and was wondering if anyone has used the Canon 28mm 1.8 for down under the basket? Have the 50 1.8 but sometimes that is just a bit too long for close quarters. I do have a .6 crop factor to deal with also. Suggestions and input appreciated.</p>

<p>Been doing HS senior portraits on location and in my small studio. In my studio been happy with the results

using my Bowens Gemini 400 along with a 36 in oval softbox, and a reflector. However, been getting some

requests for family and some group shot work and I don't feel the reflector with do the job as a fill light. My questions

is, if I need to buy another strobe to go along with my current one, is it necessary to get the same size/power or

could I get away with a little less power and a smaller softbox to go along with the 400? Thanks in advance for

help.</p>

<p>Been having success with high school senior portraits. One concern I have is the amount of time it takes from taking the pictures to getting an actual order. I feel the clients are satisfied and do like my work, which they have told me but seems that makes the decicion process harder, according to them. Here is the way I work and I am open to suggestions. On a typical sr session I take about 80-100 pictures. I then head back home/studio (I am not a pro, have a full time job) I kick out the ones I feel are unacceptable for what ever reason. That usually get the number down to 30-50. I do about 90% of the post processing of those images and put them on my wsite, in a gallery for them and other to view. I do get a sitting fee and they have signed a contract with pricing prior to doing anything. I would say the average time after the files is in the gallery to an actual order is 2 months, and I just think that is too long. One think I am considering is not putting the files on the web, instead, having proofs made, put into a book, and charge for them to take that proof book out of my studio. Let's say $100. If they don't return the book with in 2 weeks they lose the $100, but if they do return the book and place the order, the $100 goes toward that order. Anyway I am still working on what I really want to do but am very open to here some suggestions. Thanks.</p>

<p>Trying to picture some creative poses for a hs senior on his football field, but the creative juice seems to be lacking this morning. Any suggestions???? Thanks.</p>