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furcafe

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Posts posted by furcafe

  1. <p>For techs in the U.S., I had Don Goldberg of DAG overhaul my 1st Reid (a III like yours) back in 2007. IIRC, it cost about $450 at the time & took about 6 months total (had to go back to Minnesota twice because a light leak, via the flash sync openings, developed & the slow shutter speed mechanism needed to be adjusted).</p>
  2. <p>I'll recycle my response to your RFF thread on the same subject:<br /> I've had (& still have) most of the various versions: original in Prominent mount, original in LTM, CV in LTM & Nikon RF, current CV in M-mount. The only 1 I no longer have is the CV LTM version.<br /> <br /> If I had to summarize the difference between the old & the modern, I would draw an analogy to the original Carl Zeiss Jena 5cm/1.5 Sonnar or Zeiss-Opton/Carl Zeiss 50/1.5 Sonnar & the modern Carl Zeiss C Sonnar (ZM or S mount).<br /> <br /> Links to my photos w/all the various versions (only goes up to 2012, so nothing from the current M version, but you've probably seen a bunch from that lens):</p>

    <p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/furcafe/tags/cosinavoigtlander5015noktonltmc2002/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/furcafe/tags/cosinavoigtlander5015noktonltmc2002/</a></p>

    <p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/furcafe/tags/cosinavoigtlander5015snoktonc200307/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/furcafe/tags/cosinavoigtlander5015snoktonc200307/</a></p>

    <p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/furcafe/tags/voigtlander5015noktonc195260/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/furcafe/tags/voigtlander5015noktonc195260/</a><br /> <br /> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/furcafe/tags/voigtlander5015noktonltmc195260/" target="_blank">https://www.flickr.com/photos/furcafe/tags/voigtlander5015noktonltmc195260/</a></p>

  3. <p>1. Never noticed a difference. A Nikon F is probably a better comparison camera as it loads just like the Nikon rangefinders, which loads almost identically to the Contax (only difference is 1 locking key rather than 2).</p>

    <p>2. Unlike the screw mount Leicas like my IIIc, I've never had the cartridge sit low enough that the image area goes into the sprockets using a 50mm lens. It is possible to overlap adjoining frames accidentally, e.g., when the shutter is wound just enough to fire, but not quite fully wound (I would think this would be more likely w/slow speeds which require more winding), if there's a problem w/the transport mechanism, or if the film was improperly loaded & jams up.</p>

    <p>3. Not that I know of.</p>

     

    <blockquote><ol>

    <li>Do you find the exposed image area is slightly larger than a Nikon F2?</li>

    <li>Have you noticed any variation in the location of the image with different rolls in relation to the sprocket area, so much that the image overlaps the sprocket holes?</li>

    <li>Have you ever experienced problems with the film pressure plate not holding the film flat?</li>

    </ol></blockquote>

  4. <p>I agree w/Kenneth as well. There is, & always will be, a market for superfast lenses, but Canon is certainly not interested in producing anything in any mount other than their own. Heck, they've never resurrected/updated their old 50/1 L lens in EOS mount. Even 15 or so years ago, when many of the other Japanese lens makers (e.g., Pentax, Konica, Ricoh, Minolta) were making special edition LTM lenses, Canon chose not to participate.</p>

    <p>Nikon is more interested in history, but chose to reproduce some of their own RF cameras & lenses w/the SP 2000 & SP 2005.</p>

  5. <p>M6 TTL & later bodies are the most ergonomic, for me, because I meter through the VF & always shoot in "aperture priority" mode, i.e., decide on aperture & then adjust shutter speed (I like the M5, too, but it kind of stands by itself). I have no problem w/the lack of a hard stop on the M7 because I shoot it in in Auto & adjust shutter speed when I want by simply pointing the camera to another part of the scene & locking that shutter speed via the release. Likewise, I have no problem switching between the M6 TTL/M7 & an M3/M2/other meterless body because I'll usually be using the metered bodies to meter or a handheld meter.</p>
  6. <p>Brian: Have you ever put the optics from a post-WWII Zeiss-Opton or Carl Zeiss Contax RF Sonnar into a LTM barrel? If so, how does it compare with the WWII-era redesign or the Nikkors?</p>

     

    <blockquote>

    <p>The Nikkor 5cm F1.4 is much easier to find, the F1.5 rare.<br>

    I did a comparison between the Nikkor and Zeiss 5cm F1.5 LTM mount lenses here:<br>

    <a href="http://www.leicaplace.com/showthread.php?t=185" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.leicaplace.com/showthread.php?t=185</a></p>

    </blockquote>

  7. <p>Leicas are still low profile for most "normal" (non-photo) people, not so much for photo/art nerds. It is not unusual for random dudes (99% of the time it's a man of a certain age) to literally hit on my camera, i.e., come up to me & ask "Is that a Leica?" or say "Nice Leica!" while staring at the camera. Not an everyday occurrence but often enough (especially at photo & art events) that I joke about getting a t-shirt made up that shows a Leica (or other RF) on my chest, w/the caption "Eyes Up Here, Bro!" & an arrow point up.</p>

    <p>The only other camera that comes close is a TLR, which apparently was owned by everyone's grandpa.<br>

    <br /> How do <em>I</em> see it? A Leica is still lower profile than a dSLR, but not as low profile as a cellphone.</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>When you are walking around with an M9, do you still see it as a low profile, inconspicuous, unnoticed camera no one gives a second look to?</p>

    </blockquote>

  8. <p>Small clarification: the Kodak Ektra uses a cam in the lens & cam follower in the body like the Leicas for focusing & parallax correction purposes, though the cam follower is not a roller. It does have a uniquely complex breech mount w/tooth & gear system for connecting w/the internal focus wheel.</p>

     

    <blockquote>

    <p>Same patent issue applies to lens mounts. The Leica LTM lens mount with the rangefinder cam was well-protected by patents. That's why the lens mounts, and particularly the rangefinder coupling, of both the Contax RF and Kodak Ektra cameras are so horribly complicated, using rotation to transfer the distance information.</p>

    </blockquote>

  9. <p>"[T]hat aside"? Personally, focus method is pretty important, but I know that's not a big deal for everyone.<br />I've had every digital Leica M-compatible RF body since the Epson R-D1 & also have the X-Pro1 (w/18mm + 35mm lenses) since its introduction. I shoot digital primarily in "available darkness", so the fact that Leica's sensors have lagged in the high ISO department has been a major shortcoming because I find traditional RF focusing to be the best way (for me) to focus in low light (more accurate & often faster than even a good dSLR like my D700). The X-Pro1 has a great sensor (including at high ISOs), but the AF, particularly in low light, is just not up to a pro-level dSLR even w/the latest firmware improvements, let alone a RF, which undermines its potential as a Leica-killer or a dSLR-killer (again, for me). If you've ever used the old Kyocera Contax G2, think of the X-Pro1 as its digital descendant, only w/a better VF & the option of through the lens viewing. If you're primarily a daylight shooter, then the X-Pro1 becomes a much more viable option, but then again, so would a used M9 or M-E if you prefer manual RF focusing. I think what's really neat about the X-Pro1 is that you do have the option of live view/EVF usage, though that's not enough for me to make it my main camera system.</p>

    <p>Since my ideal camera would be a (cheaper) Leica M body w/a Fuji, Sony, or Nikon sensor, the new M 240 is the best I can do right now (I could use an extra stop or 2 at the top end of the ISO scale, but I can live w/a usable 3200). My X-Pro1 is now basically a back-up for my M.</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>Hi, has anyone had a chance to use both Fuji X-Pro 1 and one of Leica's digital Ms (M, M9, M-E)? X-Pro 1 is not a RF camera and its manual focus is a joke but that aside, how would you compare the two systems? Thanks</p>

    </blockquote>

  10. <p>Going to Hong Kong & Taipei next month, about a week in each, & haven't been to either city in a very long time. I'll be bringing my own film, but was wondering if anyone has any knowledge of the availability of "pro" emulsions (e.g., Tri-X, Portra 400, Provia, etc.) in case of emergency.<br /><br />Also, I might choose to have some film developed in Taipei before returning to the U.S. so any recommendations would be welcome.<br /><br />Thanks in advance, Chris</p>
  11. <p>I agree w/Erik Magnuson. I grew up in the late 1960s-1970s outside of Washington, DC & the vast majority of our family photos were taken w/cheapo Kodak Instamatics & similar cameras on horrible 110 (possibly some 126) color film from the drug store that faded within 10 years. We were a middle class family, but neither of my parents were serious photographers. Fortunately, 2 of my uncles & a few family friends were serious amateurs, & they're the source of the better family snaps. Ironically, perhaps, all of the 1930s-1950s photos from our grandparents' era were of much higher quality, even when shot in wartime China, mainly because they were all on medium or large format black & white & mostly shot by professionals.</p>
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