kevin_penczak

sorry to hear about your experience. i used to work at a canon service center, i know if you would have talked to my boss he would have shipped you a manual for free. When i was there my boss told us to do whatever it took to make the customer happy, including going out of our way. so it sounds like you just got unlucky.

Is the dust in focus or blurry? I forget, but i think the following is true: If the dust is in focus it is on the cloudy side

of the focusing screen. If the dust is blurry it is on the other side. it has been awhile since i dealt with these, so i

hope i dont have it backwards. How big of a piece of dust are we talking about?

i used to work for canon and bought a refurbished 5d about 6 months ago. I am 100% happy with it. I dont know about all of them, but mine looked brand new, no tiny scratches or anything. As for my camera, the only difference was the price and the box.

Kind of similiar for me also when i test my lens. My 50 1.8 was better than my 24-70 2.8 on sharpness, contrast, and color.

50 1.8 on 5d. I have the 24-70 2.8 and it is great, but it is heavy and big. The 50 1.8 is actually sharper than my 24-70, and of course faster, smaller and lighter. I borrowed the 70-200 4 IS and that is an amazing lens, shoot wide open and it was very very sharp.

What is the longest you can push your 5d (exposure) without getting much noise? I have a 5d and i want to take

some long exposures (ex. stars). I will use the long exposure noise reduction feature (cant remember the exact

name). Of course i can do this test myself but i am guessing some of you already have a good idea from your own

experience. I am guessing my test will take a long time: 2 hour (1 hour exposure, 1 hour noise reduction), 1 hour

(1/2 hour exposure, 1/2 hour noise reduction), etc, i am willing to do this test but hopefully someone can help me out

so i dont have to spend 4+ hours. Also, how much more noise is there at ISO 200 than ISO 100 on these long

exposures? thank you and all your help is greatly appreciated.

I am thinking of a situation something like this: I have 24-70 2.8 (w/ Canon 5d) and i am shooting a painting on a wall 10 feet from me. In this case depth of field is not really important, i am looking for the painting to be the sharpest and retain the best quality possible. I know my lens is not at its best at 2.8, so i will try to shoot around 4.0, and say i am already at ISO 400, but 1/50 was to slow to stop my hand shaking the camera (pretend i dont have a tripod, or if the subject was moving). So i want to get another stop and go to 1/100. Would you rather bump ISO to 800, or f/4.0 to f/2.8? Maybe ISO 600 at f/3.5 is the best option? What factors do you take into effect when asking yourself this question?

Other factors/options: If i want the pictures to be 8x10? 16x20? or larger? What if i was already at ISO 800 and had to go to 1600? 1600 to 3200?

Here is my question? When you need one extra stop would you rather bumb the ISO, or shoot the lens wide open

(widest aperture)? Would you rather have more noise from the ISO, or softer/less contrast from shooting wide open?

5d w/ 15mm fisheye

I am trying to defish in pscs3. i am using the 'lens correction', and 'remove distortion', i tried +100 and it does help,

but not enough. maybe i am doing something wrong? In both photos, original and corrected, I believe the house

shows far too much distortion to be acceptable. The first photo is the original and the second photo is the one i

tried to correct.

 

 

<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3081/2728623958_09b6f94a3f.jpg?v=0" />

 

 

<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3067/2728624534_a8e63408f3.jpg?v=0" />

I currently own the 24-70 2.8 (canon) and i am looking at the 85 1.8. I would like the 85mm for portraits, and maybe

some low light/indoor sports. I do not beleive i can afford one of the 70-200's at this time. So my question is this:

Will the 85mm be a big improvement over my 24-70? It is only about a stop faster and a little bit longer, so i dont

know if it will be worth buying? I here the image quality on the 85 is good, but i am sure lower than the 24-70. With

all things considered, do you think the 85 1.8 would be good for me?

How would i go about actually testing the voltage? where do i check the voltage - what part of the flash do i use to check it?

I checked online but i want to check the voltage on my flash (sunpak 555)

before i plug them into my camera and ruin it. How would i measure the

voltage on a handle mount flash?

When i talked to the person at the bookstore they said they dont make a academic standard version of CS3, if there someone else i should contact besides the bookstore?

I can get 'CS3 extended' through my school for a relatively cheap price, but

they don't have regular CS3. So my question is this: if i buy 'CS3 extended'

will it be exactly the same as regular CS3 (but with more stuff that i wont

use)?

I have an old tripod that was given to me, it seems usable (solid, sturdy).

The problem is the quick release does not fit the tripod as firmly as it

should. The quick release and camera are connect firmly and it seems fine but

when i attach the quick release to the tripod i can still move the camera left

and right slightly. It doesnt move much but it definitly does wabble left and

right. I dont know if the problem is in the quick release itself or the mech.

that holds it. I tightened everything i could but it is still looose. Should

i maybe try and bend some of the metal in? Does anyone have any quick fix

idea?

Does it really matter if i buy a expensive brand or do the cheap brand do the

same thing. The only different i see is the write/read speed. My camera can

only fire 3 frames per second so i dont know if i need a 'fast' card. Will a

cheap 30$ card give me same picture quality as 100$ card?

Are these to flashes the exact same thing, maybe one is the euro version and

one is the US version? Will the flashes operate exactly the same? same

battery?

I am in the same situation as you, and I have been looking at Elinchrom EL-Skyport system. There has been some good things on this forum talking about them. They run about 200$ for the 1 transmitter and 1 receiver, so they are much cheaper than pocketwizards. They look similiar to PW but dont have the extra long range and channels.

I am looking for a tripod. I have a 5d and the biggiest/heaviest lens i would

be using is the 24-70 2.8 (not a huge lens but it has some weight to it). I

would like to find a tripod that would hold this weight stable for use with

long exposures. I hope i can find a cheap (but good) tripod for under 100$.

I dont need anything to fancy, but definitly strong and secure. Can anyone

help?

I am looking for a camera bag, most likely a backpack to use for all

occasions. I will need room for atleast a camera body, 24-70 (canon), a small

wideangle lens, speedlite flash, and a couple pocket wizards. And I would

think i should get a bag with room to spare for later purchases. A weather

proof bag would be nice but it not needed. Anyone know of a good quality

backpack for a decent price?

Basic Photoshop CS3 with Bridge, what is 'bridge'?

I am looking at these 3 different adobe products, which is right for

photography? I am thinking Adobe CS3 design premium but i am not 100% sure.

 

Adobe CS3 Design Premium

Adobe CS3 Web Standard

Adobe Production Studio Premium

 

what is the difference between the CS3 versions?

It looks like i have my work cut out for me to learn beyond the very basics of photoshop. I looked at NIK color effects pro select and it looks pretty good, thanks for pointing it out. thanks for everyones help.

This did help, now i understand. i just ordered a PS book so hopefully that puts it all together for me. Now that i know what it is it is time for me to try and use them. thanks for helping out!