kevin_penczak

<p>I am surprised but no longer repair the 430ex. Thanks for the ideas on where to send to get fixed. I tried resetting the flash, also in manual and auto modes, sync mode is normal, no use in sending in a photo of what an over exposed flash looks like and it doesnt always fire in sync with the shutter anyways. Thanks everyone!</p>

<p>I have a canon 430ex (original, not ii), it is out of sync and only fires at full power. I did some research and have seen another person ask this same question. I called canon and they dont repair the 430ex anymore, and i tried unitedcamera and they dont repair them either. Any ideas or do i have an expensive paper weight?</p>

<p>looks like the first response (Brian Gudas) nailed it on the head. Thanks!<br /> </p>

<p>i tried shooting in the smallest jpeg and still it would only let me do 15. ISO was about 800 dont know if the others where on</p>

<p>I was shooting with a D3 today and i was in high continuous mode (9 fps) and the camera was only letting me shoot 15 images in a row before it was stops/slows down. I checked a number of setting and couldnt find out why it was stopping me. I was shooting somewhere about 1/500th of a second, and using a SanDisk Extreme III card (30 MB/s). I tried shooting in raw, jpegs small and large and still no difference. Thank you for your help!</p>

<p>So shooting a full body portrait at 2.8 with a 15mm fish and a 200mm lens will give the same depth of field is the magnification is kept constant (i.e., the subject size in the image remains constant)?<br>

the DOF caculator is hard to use because i dont know how to compare the lens, 10 feet for a 24mm lens and 10 feet for a 200mm have very different view of fields</p>

<p>I am looking to achieve the most shallow DOF. How do i know which will give me a smaller DOF, say when comparing the 135mm 2.8 vs 85mm 1.8 vs 50mm 1.4. I know the longer the lens the smaller DOF, but also the smaller f/stop the smaller DOF. At some point these two factors would seem to cancel each other out. Working distance is not a problem, I can use the 135mm and back up to get about the same field of view as the 50mm from closer. Is there some sort of formula or general rule to figuring out DOF when comparing lens? Thank you in advance!</p>

<p>the pocketwizards mean i would have to change my flashes to certain canon models and i saw tons of bad reviews about the pw's from customers on the B&H website. ND filter would not help, still cant sync past 1/200th. I am trying to freeze action when the sun it out and 1/200th doesnt always allow me to do that.</p>

<p>I am thinking there is nothing i can do to get my flash snyc faster than 1/200th when using radios slaves with a Canon 5d and a couple of sunpak 120j flashes. These are the ways i see around the 1/200th problem (although none of these options are good for me as of right now) : 1)medium format. leaf shutter allowing 1/500th. 2) Some nikon cameras with electronic shutter allowing faster sync speeds. 3)high sync speed, i think some of the new pocket wizards can do this (might work with canon flashes but with the older sunpak flashes i am assuming it will not work). tell me i am not stuck!!!</p>

<p>the 18-50 is for crop cameras, such as your 30D. It was not originally intended for full frame cameras like your 5D.</p>

<p>http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html<br>

Check the 85 1.8 on 1.6x vs. the 135 2.0 on full frame. or do whatever lens/cameras you want to compare. this should give you a tech. answer.</p>

<p>it is really hard to see what was focused on in the first picture. try this again using a tripod and focus on something flat (such as newspaper).</p>

<p>You should test the Zeuss 25 vs the canon 24 primes and see how they measure up. I think the prime vs. zoom is somewhat of an unfair test but the results are still intersting.</p>

<p>You have made your point clear that you found a problem with your camera and that are not happy about, so send it in! It sounds like this problem would not affect most people, but if it bothers you then my all means try to get it repaired.</p>

<p>thats it. thanks. sRGB fixed it</p>

<p>Whenever i put photos onto my flickr account the color shifts noticably. The hue seems to shift a tiny bit and there is a large change in saturation (desaturated). Right now i am guessing the amount by over saturating (+20 or so) and then it looks about right but not exact. I was hoping someone could tell me what i am doing wrong OR do you have a method to compensate the shift in color besides simple trial and error? thank you for any help.</p>

<p>I found my 50 1.8 to be sharper and overall a better performer than my 24-70 at 50mm, so i am sure the 50 1.4 should also be better.</p>

<p>I have an FD 50 1.8 that i looking to mount on my 5D. Is buying an adapter a cheap and relativly good way to get a macro lens? How close will my FD 50 1.8 focus on? If so is a cheap eb*y adapter good any good? does anyone have any examples of this kind of photo?</p>

<p>I tried the cheap radio slaves with my 430EX and it didnt work very well at all, it would fire at random. But i dont know if it is the same problem with the 430ez, if the only problem is the powersave feature, my guess is you could turn that feature off. Look at a online manual for the 430ez and see if it says anything about a powersave feature and if you can disable it. I think Alien bees has some fairly new radio slaves that are pretty cheap, might be worth looking at.</p>

<p>I am looking for something a little more powerful than the vivitar 285, for about the same price i can get something more powerful with better manual controls. The Metz 60CT-4 looks to be to expensive.</p>

<p>I currently own a sunpak 555 and a speedlite 430ex, i looking to add one more flash. I will be using these some sort of radio slaves so it is not important be compatible with my 5D (no ettl and high voltage not a problem). I am looking for the cheapest yet reliable powerful flash unit. I will be using these outdoor (daylight) so it is important to be a powerful flash. I will be using these mainly for skateboarding, but maybe also later with umbrellas and softboxes. At first i was looking at another sunpak 555 (powerful and cheap) but then i started looking at older canon speedlites, maybe something like a 540ez. Sunpak 555 has a gn of 50 (50mm), so it is a little more powerful than the 540ez with a gn of 42 while at the same zoom position. Maybe the sunpak 555 has the edge on power, but the 540ez can zoom, and it looks i can buy either of these for around the same price, so do you see one being better for me? Or maybe there are other better options i havent yet looked at?</p>

<p>How did you do the test? Did you use the 50mm at 1.8? Is Iso, F stop, and shutter the same for the G10 and the 450D? Maybe try this test again which both camera shoot in RAW and process both images the exact same.</p>

<p>If you shot RAW you have to apply some sharpening yourself. An easy fix might be to shoot jpeg and turn up the in camera sharpening. For landscape try to use a larger F stop (F/8 or higher), and make sure you are shooting at about 1/100th or faster to elliminate camera shake from making your photos unsharp. Like Rob said, the 100% crop might be the problem, have you had any prints made to compare the 2 cameras? What lens, f stop, and shutter speed are you using? Can you post a sample of each picture from the different cameras.</p>

<p>I used to own the canon 10-22 and really liked it. I say rent that lens for the trip. People are concerned about everything going FF, i wouldnt worry about that, but if you see yourself buying a FF in the future, just rent the 10-22 for the trip.</p>

<p>I have a couple of sunpak 555 (handlemount flash) and a 430ex. I am looking to do full body portraits (head to toe) and i plan to use these inside and outside. I am also trying to get away with the cheapest yet still solid softboxes.<br>

-Which would be good sized softboxes for me? <br>

-Is the 430 ex strong enough to use in a softbox?<br>

-How do i use the handle mount flash in the softbox?</p>