andrew_metz

I just purchased a used colorstar 3000. I am currently using a 2000 and have no complaints. I wanted to get this model

since it can do quite a few more things and I don't need modules for different papers. I have one problem, I don't know how

to hook it into my enlarger. On the 2000, you have a recepticle for the power cord from your enlarger. This unit has none. It

does have a massive cord sticking out of it that is about 3 feet long and has five prongs at the end. Apparently it was used

on a Super Chromega enlarger of which I know nothing about. I am looking to hook this to a Saunders LPL 6700 which

doesn't have a seperate power supply just a cord that plugs into the wall. I have an older LPL 6700 that used an external

power supply but I don't want to have to pull that puppy out of the closet again. Is there a simple way to convert something

so I can just plug my enlarger into this analyser without losing my mind? I have no experience with this unit. I do have the

manual which states that you need to refer to the service manual. Nice, what service manual. I don't have one. Does anyone

have experience with this unit and is there a simple solution or did I waste 150 bucks for eyecandy? I tryed Omega Satter.

Dead end so far. Seems no one wants to be bothered with analog equipment anymore. Maybe they will call back or answer

my emails etc. but I doubt it. Had the same trouble getting help with my CPP2 and Mistral dryer. Any info on connections

for this unit would be appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks for the info guys, I do have some indicator stop bath for black and white paper. I didn't know I could also use it for color processing. That's perfect. I will have to try it tommorrow. Appreciate all the great input.

I am processing RA4 in a jobo CPP2. I have been unable to get glacial acidic acid shipped to me and my local supply no

longer carries it. I read through the kodak tech manuals online and notice that in small tube processing they indicate that it

is optional to use a stopbath. Has anyone processed prints without the stopbath made from acidic acid? I normally only do

one shot with the chemicals since I don't do a large volume of prints. Is it possible to skip the acid and go directly to

Bleachfix? Should I wash between developer and bleachfix? It is getting hard to find chemicals locally since it seems that

digital is taking over in most stores. Shipping regulations seem to prevent most of the big online stores from shipping except

for Adorama. They ship but have been stocking less of the chemicals I used to use. Any alternatives to stopbath or can I

just skip it altogether and go straight to bleachfix.

Thanks for any input.

Andy

Thank you John and Juergen. That is great advise and I do need to study up on color processing. I did a little back in technical school when I was studying graphic arts but it was mostly used for lithographic printing. God, that was 25 years ago and I can't get my brain to remember all those color wheels and charts!! I sure can use a manual for this unit since I hope the manufacturer would give some indication where to start. I do use a greycard on my first exposure so if I can get this to calibrate to that negative I should be on my way. Sure is a lot easier scanning and editing on the computer but in my opinion, that is not really learning anything. I really want to be able to do this hands on. Thank you Juergen for the article, it is a great help and makes me feel better knowing that I am not the only one who needs to experiment with getting good prints. So much to learn still. Thanks to you both for your responses. It makes me feel more confident knowing that it isn't so easy to do color prints. This way my failures will only be learning experiences!!

Can anyone tell me how to set up and use the colorstar 2000? I purchased one

used to try and make life easier when it comes to processing color. I have only

done black and white and C41 for negatives which I scan. I would like to get

the experience of developing my own prints. I purchased a Saunders LPL D6700

enlarger and tried setting up with just the recommended starting filtration on

the box of Kodak Supra Endura paper. It stated 0C 65M 55Y. I tried a few test

prints and became frustrated. Colors not balancing and exposure problems. I

thought I may as well invest in a color analyser. I recieved this unit with the

probe that has 2 caps, one clear and one diffused. The probe unit can be tilted

at an angle which I don't understand why. I am really confused by the module

settings, they make no sense to me at all. I have only used an exposure meter

doing black and white so this is beyond my skill level. I follow the

instructions to set the colorhead with the analyser by turning the M and Y

adjustments till the led's go out. The trouble is trying to figure out what the

numbers that the analyser displays when you press the buttons next to each knob

on the module actually mean. I get 690 on the M and 650 on the Y and about 790

on the sensitivity knob. Is there a recommended starting point for the module

to be set at for a specific paper? I can't figure out what the knobs should be

set at. If I adjust the module knobs I can also get the led's to go out but the

print will be way off. If I use the settings on the colorhead they are down to

35M 32Y 0C when the led's are out. I tried a print and I get too much green

cast. I tried dialing in more Magenta and then the colorstar starts lighting up

led's again. If I knew what the baseline settings were it might make more

sense. I get an acceptable print from the test negative that came with the

colorstar after many attempts but when I try to print my own negative I start

getting mixed results. I am new to this so I appologies for any stupid

questions here. I just want to know how to use an analyser correctly and if I

need to adjust the colorhead for each print or just for the paper I am using.

Is there a starting setting for the colorstar module that I should use and what

should my exposure times be? If I play with the sesitivity knob I can adjust

the exposure time but I am not sure if this is correct to do.

Any help here would be appreciated. I like a challenge but now I am getting

frustrated. If the use of the module could be explained and what I should do to

get a good starting point it would be a great help.

Thanks again for any help.

You have a second generation cog gear and a first generation lift. I find the same trouble when I use the second generation lift with the old white tapered cog gear designed for the first generation lift. It slips and grinds. More likely you need the correct gear on the shaft of your motor. Does your motor have the tapered shaft with the gear screwing into it directly or does the gear have a screw and compression fitting in it? I have the new lift on an old CPP2 and was able to replace the cog gear with the black on with the compression fitting. You can also get the old white cog gear which is slightly tapered up front to help engage the lift gear as you lower it. The small piece of plastic broken away should not affect the gears engaging. The shaft of the lift gear is pretty long and should have enough beef around it from the remaining housing. If you need a white gear, I have one. That may be the trouble because I know that the new lift and old cog gear doesn't mesh correctly. I haven't tried the new gear to the old style lift but I have both and just for the heck of it I will have to see if this is the same situation. To the best of my knowledge from using the CPP and CPA, that might be all that your problem is, the wrong gear on the motor shaft.