john_decker1

I have a Sigma 120-300 2.8 version from 2010 - version before the current one - I am looking at Nikon's first AF-S 300mm lens before AF-SII and VR editions - anyone have one of these and what do you think - would it be worth a trade or sell of my sigma based on Sharpness of files?

thanks, John

<p>what I'd do today - find a d3s for starters - their price has dropped below $2000<br>

and get you a 70-200 2.8 - possibly used or a Sigma brand</p>

<p>you can get a sigma 70-200 2.8 for about half the price and it will be great for what you are doing<br>

jd</p>

<p>Here is one from the endline with the 85mm where I did not crop very much</p><div></div>

<p>I use the nikon 85mm f1.8 and the 80-200mm f2.8 - I like the 85mm it gets just about every shot you need. Plus with poor lighting in many gyms - it helps out as you can lower the f stop down to 2.2 or 2.5 if necessary - I try to shoot at 2.8 most of the time. If I had one lens I'd like to get it would be the 200mm F2. All the pics taken from this match were with a D4 and 85mm lens. I have the Sigma 120-300 and never use it indoors. You can crop the D4 16mp files easy and get all kinds of good stuff. Also with the 750 you can shoot in DX mode and it serves as a zoom so to speak - </p><div></div>

<p>I use the nikon 85mm f1.8 and the 80-200mm f2.8 - I like the 85mm it gets just about every shot you need. Plus with poor lighting in many gyms - it helps out as you can lower the f stop down to 2.2 or 2.5 if necessary - I try to shoot at 2.8 most of the time. If I had one lens I'd like to get it would be the 200mm F2<img src="https://www.facebook.com/269814253043003/photos/a.1077345255623228.1073741911.269814253043003/1077345355623218/?type=3&theater" alt="" /> all the pics taken from this match were with a D4 and 85mm lens</p><div></div>

<p>Mine is doing the same thing right now so I am researching on this - any word on what the cause was? my shots are over/under exposed - usually shoot in "A" - aperture priority - but lighting conditions were NOT changing so there should not have been the wild changes in shutter speed that were going on - any help would be greatly appreciated on this matter</p>

<p>I'll tell you my experience - I bought the 2011 introduced model that was out 2 years before being replaced by the new "sports" line that Bill has. I have a friend of mine - pro shooter - who was looking to sell his older version without OS - and let me tell you - it is TACK sharp - I shot it for about a month before deciding to get the one I got - and if I'd have known that it was as good I could have saved $500 - if you can find and older model cheap - get it</p>

<p>i'd say if you have a D5100 your iso will be a sticky point - I have had a D70, then D90, then D7000 and now have two camera's - a D600 and a D3s - all are different in terms of iso - I have a 85mm f1.8, its around $400 or so and a 50mm f1.8 - if you can get close those two lenses will be great lower cost options IMHO And I agree with what Gaute said - get close, down on the field level - </p>

 

<p>one last shot</p><div></div>

<p>and another</p><div></div>

<p>First big snow in Tennessee this year - around 5 inches... we get one of these about every 5 years if we are lucky... so we took advantage and did some sledding... here are a few pics</p><div></div>

<p>what camera do you have?</p>

<p>Is there a way a semi-professional/hobbyist can get a press pass to take pics of an NFL game?</p>

<p>my wife is in real estate and I was looking for a cheaper way to do some lighting indoors as well as maybe use them for some portraits</p>

<p>I have a d90 and and sb600 - can the sb26's be triggered like 600 from the d90? if not, could someone explain how? Looking into adding some light sources and wondered if this could work? Trying to stay thrifty/cheap!!<br>

thanks, ahead of time</p>

<p>i've got a d90 and its as good as the d300... at $900 or so its worth a shot - maybe rent one and check it out</p>

outdoor sports is exactly when high iso's would be used.... i shoot some hs football and if i can shoot at 6400 its pretty good at some stadiums... but 12800 would be awesome

<p>i have a d90 - if you can't get a d3 this is next best thing in that range - you can shoot at 3200 and still get good stuff with some noise reduction software (i use noise ninja)<br>

i shoot with an 80-200 2.8</p>

<p>50 1.8 can get a lot of shots - i got one last year and i love it - u can get everything around and under the basket. i also shoot with the 85mm which will get you to the top of the key... i shoot hs basketball at our school and can get pretty much anywhere i want to get the pictures - i move around a lot to get different view points - i have just purchased a tokina 11-16 and hope to use it on a fast break dunk this year<br>

i shoot with a d90 at 3200iso on aperature priority (2.8 mostly) @ 1/500 or so</p>

 

<p>the d3 can shoot as iso 6400 and make bad lights look great - check out dan mcpeak at sports shooters - i've talked to him while shooting a hs game and he's shown me the stuff<br />of course you have a nice lense to go with that camera so you won't have problems in that area</p>

<p>i have the same stuff you have including the d70 - i got a d90 last december- at most HS football stadiums the lighting is horrible - i shoot at 3200 and at some areas get 1/400 but mostly 1/250... unless you can get a d3 thats as good as it gets for under $1000 for the camera... shoot with a monopod and check out the image engineer for a way to make shots pop with a flash mounted on the monopod<br>

d90, 80-200 2.8, 85 1.8, 50 1.8, 24 2.8, and a tokina 11-16 2.8</p>

<p>event borders</p>

<p>I shoot with a d90, I have a d70... but prefer to use just the d90... I want to be able to zoom a little and still get the shots under the basket when I'm on the endline under the goal as well... with the 85 I can't get the "whole" picture and with the 80-200 I'm having trouble getting the shot as well unless I move to the corner... I want to be able to get under the basket and get those shots!! The lens would also double up as more of an everday shoot lense as well... I have to maximize use due to financial constraints... I really don't want a prime lens even though they are faster - I can shoot from 2.8 to 4 depending on where I'm positioned. I teach at the school and I take these for the basketball programs as a little side income situation.<br>

shooting 3200 at 1/325 or better<br>

The lights are excellent for a high school gym</p>

<p>Going to get one of these lenses to shoot some indoor sports - bkb mainly... as of now I have an 85 1.8, 80-200 2.8<br>

Which one & why?<br>

Sigma 24-70 mm f/2.8 EX DF Lens for Nikon AF<br>

Tamron 28-75 mm f/2.8 SP XR Di LD Aspherical IF f/Nikon-D AF<br>

Would love the Nikon 24-70 but can't do the $$<br>

Thanks in advance for recommendations</p>