pablomatsumoto

<p>Hi. When I mean prints I am talking about priting in photo paper at a professional lab, not made by me. The lab gives me a sample picture with a sample print to make the adjustment.<br>

Could you please tell me how do I change saturation values? I change the settings under /Control Panel/Screen Properties/Advanced Configuration, then GeForce 7000 tab and I start NVidia Control Panel.<br>

There under "Screen"/Desktop Color I have Brighteness, Digital Vibrance, Contrast, Sharpness and Gamma.</p>

 

<p>Hi. I have a Samsung SynMaster 940 NW in PC running Windows Vista with NVIDIA GrForce 7000.<br>

My problem is that I am mad trying to match what I see in the screen with some print samples. My main problem is that the prints are much less saturated than the screen, but I just cannot find a way to reduce it. I change gamma values but this reduce the overall brightness but not saturation.<br>

The difference is specially visible in red.. For e.g., women lips with make up apeear "red furious" in the screen but normal in prints.<br>

I will appreciate your comments. Please not that buying a hardware callibrating system is not possible (they are not sold in the country where I live).</p>

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<p>Thank you very much all of you for your comments.. After seeing more carefully, clearly compensating negatively the flash was not a good choice, although pictures looked much more clear on the LCD.<br>

I am very impressed with the efect of noise ninja.. I thought using it but was dubious about it results.. I have to say now that are amazing.</p>

<p>Next time I 'll try it at 400 / 800 ISO with drag the shutter technique!</p>

<p>Thank you for your coments, but in this case at 2.8 1/25 was not enought. At 3200 speed was about 1/8. Nice the thing of the gel.. I'll check about it!</p>

<p>Hi. I am amateur photographer, I don't make my living taking pictures but I try to take it very seriously.<br /> In my social photography I usually try to avoid as much as possible the use of flash, taking photos at high ISO with ambient lighting (1600, 3200) at 2.8.<br /> When it is impossible not to use flash (like in the example picture, very dim dance floor) I use on camera flash at high ISO so as to have the main subject lighted but not obstruct ambient. If the dance floor has colour lights I don't see the case of blasting all with white light and kill the atmosphere! Usually I compensate the flash half stop down.<br /> However, I am not very sure whether the results are satisfactory:<br /> First, sometimes I doubt about how much grain is acceptable (eg, do you believe the grain in the example is acceptable?). One teacher of mine always told me that having grain is much better than not having the picture!<br /> Second, as I generate mix lighting, photos are not white balanced.. quite warm (red cast). I set my camera to flash white balance. I am not sure whether this generate a nice picture.<br /> Your opinion will be very useful. Thank you.<br /> My equipment is a Canon 30D with EF-S 17-55 IS 2.8 and a Sigma DG-500 Super.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi. May be this a basic question for many of you, I am having the following problem.<br>

For social photography of informal posed portraits (eg., couple of friends drinking on a sofa) I use my on camera flash bounce on white ceilings (when possible) with a white/silver card attached so as to have some direct flash (obviously, this is a very common configuration).<br>

With this I prevent red eye without problems but sometimes I get little bright white dots on people's pupils (I guess is due to the direct flash that bounced on the card). This dots looks quite unprofessional for me.</p>

<p>Do I am doing something wrong?</p>

<p>Dear all,<br>

Hi. I have some experience at social photography (birthdays, parties, bautism, some weddings) but this time I will have to photograph a dance performance.<br>

This is a show of just one couple and only one piece (aound 5 minutes). Location is indoor, low incandescent light (not at a stage so no stage lighting, just common bulbs), motion speed will be medium (a bit fast but not very fast like rock and roll).<br>

My worried is about equipment. I have a Canon 30D with 17-85 4-5.6 IS and Speedlight 550X. I also have a 50 1.4. Distance from subject will be about 5-10 meters. It is also possible I can borrow a 70-200 L 4.0 (no IS).<br>

I am dubious about going with the 50 1.4 with no flash (maybe at 1600 ISO) or with the 17-85 /700-200 and on-camera flash (at 400-800 ISO). I am not very sure whether at 1.4 the available light will be enough to reasonable stop motion (also focus is very critical and difficult with a moving subject). What do you think can be a minimum speed (1/125, 1/90)? As is only one piece, I will not have time to change lenses if I find I didn't choose it right, so I think the 17-85 with flash will give me more flexibility. However, I think the flash may ruin the atmosphere.</p>

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