norman_valentine

<p>I had my Contax Sonnar lens done by Henry Scherer and he did an excellent job. I don't know if he would work on a non Contax camera though.</p>

<p>Here are some of my efforts, they wouldn't win any competitions but they are a record of what I built.</p>

<p><a href="http://modelshipbuilder.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?13710">http://modelshipbuilder.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?13710</a></p>

<p>As a ship modeller and a photographer I feel that I have some qualifications in answering this question. It is hard to get a good photo!<br>

I tried the wrinkled bed sheet approach it was awful. I did not want to go to the expense of buying a roll of backing paper so I took the ship outside and used the greenery in my garden as a backdrop. It was certainly better than a cluttered domestic background. I was extremely nervous carrying it outside as the model measures 6' long and 4' high and the extremities are very fragile. To do the job properly you need lots of space around it especially indoors. As I said earlier, it is not easy.<br>

Close ups of detail are not so bad though.</p>

<p>Is the focussing screen upside down? i.e. matt side up</p>

<p>Mine does not make any sound.</p>

 

<p>If you want to do 1:1 then you should do as you ask and have the lens at double its focal length from the film. The distance from the lens to the subject will be the same distance as the lens to film distance. You should give two stops more exposure to compensate for the extension. Simple! Except that it always seems more complicated when you actually do it. Good luck!</p>

<p>Try this, <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NIKON-F-F2-LENS-COOPLING-/130776112227?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e72dd1c63">http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NIKON-F-F2-LENS-COOPLING-/130776112227?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e72dd1c63</a></p>

<p>Thank you Q.G., David and Siegfried, now I have a better chance of understanding what I am trying to do.<br>

Once again, thank you, Norman </p>

<p>Hi, I am trying to translate some repair instructions for my Leningrad camera from German to English.<br>

I am using Google translate and it has worked well except for the section below. Is there a German speaker who could translate it for me please?</p>

<p align="JUSTIFY"><strong>D</strong>ann wird Achse eingesetzt und die Filmaufwickeltrommel aufgesteckt. Unten an der Achse ist ein Schlitz, der auf den passenden Zapfen der Rückspulsperre am Gehäuseboden gesteckt werden muss.</p>

<p lang="en" align="JUSTIFY"><strong>J</strong>etzt kann das Verschlußmodul ins Gehäuse geschoben werden.</p>

<p lang="en"> </p>

<p lang="en"> This is what Google makes of it: </p>

<p lang="en"> </p>

<p lang="en">Axis is used and then the plugged Filmaufwickeltrommel. Below is a slot on the axle that needs to be plugged into the matching thong Rückspulsperre the bottom of the housing.</p>

<p lang="en"> Now the closure module can be inserted into the housing.</p>

<p lang="en"> </p>

<p lang="en">I will be very grateful for any help that anyone can give.</p>

<p lang="en">Thanks, Norman</p>

<p>Sekonic L208 cost me £70 two years ago. Very convenient to use and tiny.</p>

<p>I have had an R2880 for 2 years and the only problem is the size of the ink cartridges. I am forever changing them. You could consider the R 3880 it's twice the price but the ink cartridges are huge!</p>

<p>I think that it is both elements for 210 and rear element only for 370.</p>

<p>It's not something I do often but I don't find it a problem. I just pause at each inversion to allow the bubbles to rise to the top. The results seem consistent enough for me.<br>

I also put two films into each of the spirals which would allow processing 8 rolls at a time.</p>

 

<p>I once was given an Epson 1200 that had stood for several years and was completely dried up. It was suggested that I use an ammonia based window cleaner "Windolene" in UK to clean it.<br>

I sprayed a little onto a sheet of paper and attempted to print on it. After many passes and head cleans I got it completely unblocked, you can also spray some on the foam that the heads rest on when parked and leave it overnight. I used it for several years before buying an Epson 2880.</p>

<p>In Kenya don't forget Amboseli and Hell's Gate and of course Tsavo.</p>

<p>Where are you?</p>

<p>Is that Burnham-on-Crouch?</p>

<p>Does your printer have an option to print with black ink only? That is what I used to do with my R1200 printer and got fine B&W prints.</p>

<p>You could read this page, near the bottom he talks about shutter tension, this might answer your question.<br>

<a href="http://www.zeisscamera.com/services_overhaul-cIIa-shutter.shtml">http://www.zeisscamera.com/services_overhaul-cIIa-shutter.shtml</a></p>

 

<p>Lever wind was a vast improvement on knob wind.</p>

<p>The Photomic prism has another smaller prism glued to it that has to be removed before it will fit. I have done it by crunching it with a pair of pincers. Fortunately it does not seem to affect the silvering in that spot.</p>

<p>I believe that it is caused by damage to the silvering on the top angle of the prism, there is nothing that can be done short of having it re-silvered.</p>

<p>You did not say relative to what. Relative to the cost of the ISS it is really cheap, but relative to the income of most people in the world, bloody expensive!<br>

Maybe "less expensive" would have been a better description.</p>

<p>$1000, CHEAP??????</p>

<p>I mounted my Symmar 360mm f5.6 lens by making a clearance hole in the lens panel and then cut a length of rubber hose to just fit around the circumference of the threaded part. I used a "Terry" hose clip over the rubber tube, as I tightened it it squeezed the rubber against the rear of the lens panel making the whole thing very firm. It will come off easily when required unlike using tape.</p>