rainbowphotography

I am planning to add some Godox outdoor flashes for on-location portrait works and other types of people photos. After some online searches, I am debating on a few choices. One of them is whether I shall get an AD300Pro or just two AD200Pro with the dual power flash bracket as the main light. And for the on-camera flash, shall I get V860ii, but not V1?

Any suggestions?

After having not used my 6D for some time, I tried to set up a WiFi connection with my tablet. Following a WiFi set-up instruction, I don't get screens as what I see in the instruction. In the confirm set, there are five options. On the connect to smartphone screen, I don't see how I can pick the option (see the photo). Also, sometimes, six icons will show up on a screen after I select WiFi connection on the menu. What is wrong?

Setting Tv Mode can also be problematic: the camera will change the Aperture when it "reads" that the Ambient Exposure has changed. In this case the ETTL Flash Exposure will change to suit the newly adjusted Aperture, this can result in the Flash Fill not being adequate, and sometimes ineffective, if your Subject Distance is beyond the Maximum Flash Working Distance for the ISO you have chosen.

 

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The above two brief descriptions and examples of some of the possible issues one might encounter when choosing to use Tv and/or Av Modes for a Camera when using Flash as Fill in Sunlight and these and other issues which need to be monitored, form the basis of the reasons why I advised using (only) M Mode.

 

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OK. It seems that Sigma's lists are not up to date, as I suspected.

 

WW

I post two photos to illustrate my test for the scenario (rainbowphotography | photo.net I don't' know how to get those photos' URLs). The first one was taken with the default camera and flash setting in the TV mode. And the second one with the camera -2 and flash +2 in the same Tv mode. The shutter speed was the max. syn. speed, 180 and IOS was 1600. Ambient light is noticeable in the first photo and the flash light kills ambient light in the second photo. With this approach, the IOS setting would be used to control DOF. It definitely can run into a limitation of functioning properly due to ambient light strength.

Thanks for answering. - Av Mode

 

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Lets assume you were working at ISO 200. Let's assume you set Av = F/8. The TTL Meter (in Evaluative Mode) would meter a 'close backlit person in a sunny scene' at about F/8 @ 1/200s @ ISO200, but you used EC -3Stops. The camera can't do that, there's no Tv to reduce (i.e. the camera can't go faster than 1/200s when it detects a Flash). I am not sure exactly what a 6D does in that situation, but I a reasonable certain it either won't allow the Shutter to be released, or it won't apply the EC. Yon can investigate the EXIF data to find out exactly what did happen.

 

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WW

Thanks very much for your analysis. I was not thinking. What you say is absolutely correct. With a flash, ambient light exposure is controlled by aperture. I should set my camera to the Tv mode and shutter speed less than or equal to the maximum synchronization speed so that the camera could adjust the exposure by altering aperture. The manual mode certainly is an approach too.

BTW, I just test the flash with the camera and the flash works fine in a normal situation.

Not understanding why you are doing that. If you have a til flash system, you need to be close enough to meter off the subject. Better to use a spot metering setting that most cameras have. Get the dot on the subject, that will inform the flash and it should bring that into fair exposure. the background will look strange sometimes but if on faces they will be in. Of course if you are far away from the subject in bright sunlight, its not going to help anyways. How close were you to the subjects?

I had a Sigma 24-35 mm on the camera. So, the subject needed to quite close, between 2 - 5 m. Otherwise, the subject would be quite small.

Three stops underexposed for backlit sun with Flash Fill three stops overexposed is quite severe, anyway, more information please:

 

Assume that's a typo and you're using a Canon DSLR model 6D?

What Camera Mode were you using? i.e. M Tv Av P etc?

 

WW

My camera was on AV mode.

Yesterday, I went to take some photos for a parade. It was sunny. I initially set three steps below the auto exposure level on my camera and three steps above the E-TTL auto exposure level on my flash for backlit photos. The result is very bad as the subjects in those photos are washing out (too hot in exposure). Changing the metering mood from multi-pattern to the centre weighted doesn't help. I also tried to set my camera and flash to the auto level with the same or similar result. I had to give up using flash later.

If my memory serves me well, I had used the approach for a point-shoot camera, Canon G11, in the type of national lighting situation before with a good result. I don't know where I mess things up. Is the equipment problem, Canon D6, and Sigma EF-610 DG Super? Or a technical problem?

Having a set of Canon system equipment, I am thinking of adding a Sony body. I am wondering how the combo of a7 Mark II + Sigma MC-11 + Canon Mount Lenses work for others?

Thanks for your inputs in advance.

<p>Thanks everyone for your input.<br /> I am wondering whether the muslin wrinkle problem can be solved with lighting technique or not which, of course, is restricted to only white and black colours, or perhaps grey. For a black muslin background/back drop, I shall have as little light as possible on it. And for a white muslin, doing the opposite, I shall have two steps more light on the background. Here is a photo I made in my living room with a piece of black fabric on a lightstand. <img src=" alt="sample" /> (<a href=" >http://www.flickr.com/photos/26423920@N00/5293387167/in/photostream/lightbox/</a>)There were many wrinkles on the fabric and you can't tell any of them.</p>

<p>The wrinkle problem also can be solved with a large aperture. This approach is applicable for any colour muslin backdrops.</p>

<p>I used to use white and black fabrics as background. I plan to have a few formal backgrounds and try to figure out what I shall get: paper or muslin. What are the pros and cons of these two types of background materials?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have to cut off the bottom portion of <a href=" photo</a> because an element, which is a part of the bridge where I was standing on, is a distracted element. To take this photo, I have to use a tripod for a long time exposure and a wide angle. For the spot, I would still get a part of the bridge into a photo even my tripod were close to the edge of the bridge.<br>

This experience lets me think to have an off-centre centre column tripod. I know there are two brands of such tripods. One is <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/504845-REG/Manfrotto_055XPROB_055XPROB_Aluminum_Tripod_Legs.html">Manfrotto 055XPROB</a> and the other is <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/687328-REG/Oben_AC_2320L_AC_2320L_3_Section_Aluminum_Lateral.html">Oben AC-2320L 3-Section Aluminum Lateral Tripod</a> (Oben is a house brand of BH Vidoes). Does anyone have an experience of those two tripods? Any other brands make this type of tripod?</p>

<p>Thanks both for your information/suggestion. I think it is a simple solution to place a small subject on top of a piece of semi-translucent acrylic and light it from beneath.<br>

Also, Alan is right on where the dome on the light meter shall point to: the camera/lenses, but not the main light.</p>

<p>Alan:<br>

Thanks for your detailed information. I placed my light meter right beside the subject and against the main light. I didn't use my light meter for reflective light and I don't remember that I have seen anyone use a light meter in the way in a studio setting neither.<br>

Tim:<br>

I should provide more detailed information on my subject and paper setting. I placed a subject on top of the background paper. So, the subject and the paper receive the same strength of the light. Since that is a table top photo, I don't see a way to light the background separately. </p>

<p>I can't find a right category for my this question. I don't know whether it is a right place for it or not.<br>

I start experiencing the light painting technique with a Mini Maglite. The types of my subjects are people and landscape. Based my limited experience so far, I would like to have a light intensity adjustable continued light source. I have a look at Fenix flashlights. Two models may fit my usage requirement <a href="http://www.fenixlight.com/viewnproduct.asp?id=75">LD40</a> and more powerful <a href="http://www.fenixlight.com/viewproduct.asp?id=122">TK45</a>. <br>

I am wondering anyone else have an experience in the field or not.</p>