Jump to content

ian_casement

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    287

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by ian_casement

    Rebuilding Lumedyne battery

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>I had a Mini battery recelled with 3300mah cells and it works great. Added another couple and use the same Lumedyne charger.</p>

    <p>Compared to a 'Large' battery recell done myself at around $15 for a 3.2Ah battery, the Mini recell at about $80 by a battery place is not as good, but not too bad and the weight saving is quite significant.</p>

    Anyone shoot with the new Bowens Creo studio light generator?

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p>But yeah <em>you</em> may not appreciate these subjects you consider cliche and mention with sarcasm lol..</p>

     

    </blockquote>

    <p>The sarcasm was injected because in fact you only have <strong>two</strong> photographs in your 'extensive portfolio', both women - yet you chose to criticise others based on their lack of images whilst at the same time using your <strong>two</strong> photographs to argue against <strong>fact</strong>.</p>

    <p>As Joseph said: Done Here.</p>

     

    Anyone shoot with the new Bowens Creo studio light generator?

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p>Remember how your dad used to say "If Jimmy jumped off a bridge, would you jump too?" Fix mistakes, don't propagate them.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Quite.<br>

    Joseph.. if you want to be taken seriously you need to show AT LEAST two photographs. It helps if they're of cats, women, flowers or landscapes and then, dude, only then, you might be considered worthy of stating facts.</p>

    Any triangular-section booms available?

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>As a comparison, my Foba camera stand uses a 6 sided polygon section steel(?) riser and horizontal arm. Alternatively, the Cambo stand I had used round section riser and round arm. Both are heavy. (and both equally as expensive).</p>

    <p>We live in a world of 'cheap'. Cheap trumps all it seems and round section tubing is easier to obtain and hence cheaper. It would be a brave manufacturer who would use a triangular or polygonal section tube.</p>

    <p>The only other different shape tubing I've seen used is my Carbon-One tripod. That's a Triangular/Polygon.. a triangle with flat sides combined with radius corners.</p>

    different color Temperatures with flash outside

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>With the sun on your subject, do a custom white balance using a white or grey card (which will then provide the correct colour temperature for your lighting), note the camera colour temperature setting and apply a conversion filter to your flash for it to match that colour temperature*. With your lighting now having the correct colour balance, you can increase the colour temperature setting of your camera with the aim of shifting the white balance away from 'correct' to introduce the level of warmth you require.</p>

    <p>* You need to know the colour temperature of your flash unit and whatever modifier you intend using. Establish this beforehand by following the custom white balance procedure and reading the result provided by your camera. You then have an original source value to work from.</p>

    <p>A conversion table is available here: http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/mired-shift-calculator.html</p>

     

    Use Lightmeter with Flash (Speedlight)

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Sensors in electronic devices are IR sensitive unless they're specifically coded. Speedlite sensors are not coded, neither are flashmeter sensors - so adding an IR filter to a Speedlite won't disguise the pre-flash from the meter and so it will still miss the exposure flash. </p>

    <p>Even in Manual output eTTL the Master uses preflash signals, so you don't get away with using 'Manual' like a Nikon in SU-4 mode would.</p>

    <p>Slave cells for your remotes and an IR trigger on camera would be the closest solution.</p>

    <p> </p>

    What would you buy if you couldn't afford an Elinchrom Ranger Quadra?

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p>Follow up on the Lumedyne kits, with apologies for what might be (probably is) a clueless question. I found this kit that comes with a power supply but needs a battery: <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lumedyne-Flash-Outfit-Needs-Battery-/221160239236?pt=Digital_Camera_Flashes&hash=item337e2d7084" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">(link)</a> If I buy a battery, can I plug it into the AC power supply to charge or do I still need an additional charger?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>You need a battery and charger with that.</p>

    <p>The disadvantage of Lumedynes are that they have limited output settings unless you get the 'better' Signature packs. 1/1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 output are the norm but the Signature packs have variable output control throughout the range.</p>

    <p>An alternative might be the Lencarta Safari packs and heads (600Ws) or even the Jinbei versions: http://www.prophotographygear.com/jinbei-discovery-series-battery-flash-dc600-p-334.html even with 6000mAh Lithium-ion Battery.</p>

    <p> </p>

    Round /octagonal and rectangular

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Light being reflected from a parabolic umbrella in a parallel or columnated direction and then diffused by a cover should provide the most efficient use of the light possible. With an equivalent surface area of the round parabolic on a square or oblong softbox similarly optimised - there would be no difference in efficiency. The same quantity of light spread evenly over the same surface area will provide the same luminance level and the same light quantity on subject. You would benefit slightly from an oblong softbox in having two options for shadow gradation, with the parabolic being in between, but the different results being barely noticeable between all modifier variations with them having the same surface areas.</p>

    <p>In relation to your "compared to square/rectangular ones of the same size (diameter of the round diffuser compared with same side length of a square). I read this in a questions/answers site of photography.." ...then you will understand that you are comparing apples with oranges there.. As just pointed out, the surface areas of those two samples are unmatched.</p>

    <p>"The articles mentioned that square boxes provided more like a kind of window light effect .. and octo boxes provided more like outdoors lighting effect because how the octo make the like to fall around to subject.. " Window light effect - would that be full sun streaming through a window acting as a point source.. or would that be an even cloud cover evenly illuminating the aperture towards the light that the subject is in? They are.. completely different. And would the room be white, grey or black.. again, the results would be completely different.</p>

    <p>In comparisons, its best to compare like with like, or to specify the objective of your comparison.</p>

    <p>When it comes to cost, convenience or preference then compromise comes to effect and can be wholly decided by what you have and whether you like the effect or not. </p>

    <p>Looking natural can divide many different opinions.</p>

    Round /octagonal and rectangular

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Your question illustrated your misunderstanding. Softboxes don't provide "light Beams". The same metaphor was used to aid your understanding - using your own language - as it were.</p>

    <p>Softboxes take a relative point source and convert it into a wide area array of - even - light distribution (or at least they should). If this is not what your talking about then any comparison is very difficult to judge and the differences very difficult to determine.</p>

    <p>In the context of "more natural looking light spread" "more efficient in the use of lights" "Smaller round/octagonal boxes delivered more concentrated "light beams”".... Compared to what exactly? Only comparing two near identical products of almost near identical design using identical materials of construction in the same location can any such comparison be made. (I'd like to know where this was written that determined these differences that you were reading).</p>

    <p>With "more natural looking light spread" you will be comparing to the sun wouldn't you..? Thats the only natural light source I know of. Or would it be with the sun in some modified situation you like the 'natural' look of.. or some other modified light source altogether - and not a soft box?</p>

    Impact brand vs Quantum Turbo for Trio?

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Hi Peter,</p>

    <p>Thanks for keeping us informed about the Impact. I just bought a used Turbo recently and changed the battery and am currently forming it.</p>

    <p>This is its second charge and it managed 250 full power flashes with a T5d-R using the regular "fast" setting. I expect it will be greater after a few more charge cycles, so I'll try and remember to try it again in a while.</p>

    <p>Interestingly.. the Turbo takes an 8v 3.2Ah battery and the Lumedyne Megacycler and small battery which is a 12v 3.3Ah retrofit battery pack runs out to 410 full power flashes. I wonder whether the Turbo will get near that?</p>

    Round /octagonal and rectangular

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>A concentrated 'light beam' is difficult to achieve with something which is designed to diffuse light 180° - especially through a diffusion material on the front surface of a softbox.</p>

    <p>If your softbox or diffuser isn't working properly or you are projecting a focussed 'light beam' onto the softbox surface, then you will get a more concentrated directional 'beam' rather than a more omnidirectional 'beam'.</p>

    <p>The size of the softbox is the most important aspect relating to beam spread, but rather than thinking of it as a beam spread, think of it more of a beam size - where a small beam size creates a hard edged shadow and a large beam size creates a soft edged shadow.</p>

    <p>In an ideal world every softbox would provide exactly the same light quality, but its not an ideal world, and they don't.</p>

     

    Light Shafts

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>From the Elinchrom link Ralph provided:</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>With a 1200Ws head F-22.6 is achieved from a distance of 6.5' (1/125 sec., 100 ISO)</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>...not the most efficient of beasts and when light shafts are used their focus point tends to be the brightest points in the image because they're normally from the lightsource.</p>

    <p>The 5k Colortran spot projector had a 5K flash head rather than a 5K Halogen. The size wouldn't be much more than the Elinchrom you linked to.</p>

    <p>The 3K Bowens version I have is a fixed unit. The modelling light and flash tube are designed into the unit. They do have a limited spread on them and limited depth of focus, so depending on requirements a Fresnel Spot might be a better option:<br>

    $320: http://www.thestudiooutfitters.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_75&products_id=194<br>

    $3862: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/755830-REG/Hensel_3393_F_Spot_6000W_s_Fresnel_Flash.html</p>

    <p> </p>

    Artificial Light Outside

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p>The image on the right if you look down by her right arm you can see a starburst from the water that overlaps onto her arm. That would have been a very clever trick to do in photoshop but i doubt that that type of detail was thought of. </p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>If it was deliberate, I could point to places it would be better positioned quite easily.</p>

    Artificial Light Outside

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>That link is to two completely different lighting situations.</p>

    <p>The first is in full sun with what looks like the addition of a single large umbrella or octobox.</p>

    <p>The second is backlit by the sun and looks to have the photographer centred in two large umbrellas or Octoboxes. </p>

×
×
  • Create New...