paul_serafini1

<p>I think your client is correct.</p>

<p>I apologize if this is the wrong forum for this question, but I can't find a better one.</p>

<p>My new laptop has a lightscribe burner, and my understanding is that I need to select and download some software for designing and burning the cd labels. It seems like every program I've looked at so far either doesn't support incorporation of any tye of graphics or image, or requires the use to use one of their templates. I already know exactly what I want my cd labels to look like.</p>

<p>Ideas?</p>

<p>Just reinstalled LR 3.0 on desktop and laptop and having two issues on each computer that I don't recall seeing in the past. I need to correct both immediately.</p>

<p>(1) When culling photos and assigning star-based rankings, I of course click on a star ranking then proceed to the next image. However, I've noticed that after I have ranked the first 10 or so, the ranking is selected by simply hovering or moving the mouse over the star...no clicking. In other words, if I inadvertently move the cursor over the 2star ranking, the image is assigned that ranking, even if I don't click.</p>

<p>(2) WHen taking an image into PS from LR, doing my edit, and then saving, the PS-edited version does not reappear in LR. No idea where it goes.</p>

<p>Please help!</p>

<p>Hello everyone. I use PS CS 3 and LR 3 on my HP desktop and laptop, both of which runs Windows XP. I'm going to be replacing my laptop in the immediate future, and I want to verify that my current versions of LR and PS will work correctly with the OS on the new laptop. I haven't selected a new model yet, but it appears that almost all new laptops have windows 7 installed, but there are at least a few different versions. WHich verions of Windows 7 will be compatible? </p>

<p>No offense, but due to the potential cost of getting wrong information in response to this question (i.e. having to replace programs), I would REALLY like to see an answer that references something from the adobe website or some other VERY credible source, although I'm also interested in hearing about personal experiences.</p>

<p>I've tried to wade through the adobe website, and call customer service, both to no avail.</p>

<p>I use smugmug and in general, I'm very happy with it. I have two complaints (1) Very bad customer service. No phone support at all. You can only communicate via email, so by the time you get your response, ask follow up questions, get their follow up responses, etc., it may easily take several days before your issue is figured out. Luckily the software is well designed and intuitive so there shouldn't be much need for support. (2) It's a little expensive ($150/year) for a "pro" membership.</p>

<p>One of my new years resolutions is to do a better job of taking advantage of lightroom's functionality. That program has a lot of power that I had not been using.</p>

<p>I have developed a system for classifying images using the star-rating system, which has been working REALLY well for me, but I also know I can use color codes too.</p>

<p>Has anyone developed a color code system that doesn't have to do with rating images? I really like my system for rating pics so I don't want to use colors for that purpose. For instance, I might start using colors to denote pics that need to go to PS, and/or pics that are done with PS.</p>

<p>Hello all. I use Lightroom 3.3, PS CS 3, and Nik COlor effects 3. I love the glamour glow filter in Nik, as do my clients. I understand I can open images in Nik and/or PS from LR and apply that affect, but I would like to streamline the process by having a glamour glow preset, so I don't even have to leave LR to apply the filter.</p>

<p>Does anyone know if there are any such LR presets available for sale/download? Alternatively, does anyone have ideas about creating my own preset?</p>

<p>Rob, AMAZING advice!! I took several screen grabs of the website, saved them as jpegs and uploaded thm to tineye.com. Long story short, I was correct!!!!</p>

<p>Thanks for the comments everyone. Again, I"m being fairly tight lipped about why I suspect this is the case, but let me clarify on this point; the suspect images are not mine, nor do I know to whom they belong. Hence my efforts to look at exif data to see if they may have been keyworded with the creator's name.</p>

<p>I'm nearly certain that a photographer in my area is using images on his website that do not belong to him. The website is a flash site, so I can't right click the suspect images and save so that I can examine the exif data. In other words, I don't think I can prove anything.</p>

<p>I don't want to go into detail about why I suspect this.</p>

<p>This person is not a competitor of mine, so I cant really figure out why this is bugging me so much.</p>

<p>What would you do?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Sorry in advance for the lengthy post. Not sure I even know where to begin. When I started using LR, I was entirely self-taught and as such, I was focused on learning the develop module and didn't bother to learn much about file management or the library module. I realize that I am not utilizing any of LR's functionality in this area, and until now I've been OK with that, partly because my existing workflow, while cumbersome, was working ok for me.<br>

Currently, my workflow is as follows;</p>

<ol>

<li>After a shoot, I will create a folder on my computer's desktop (for example "2010_12_22 sally jones headshots"). </li>

<li>Within that folder, I will build several sub-folders, including one for each of the memory cards I used during the event, numbered 1-x. I will also create sub-folders for "exported jpegs", "blog", etc. </li>

<li>I transfer raw files from cards to the corresponding numbered card sub-folders via a card reader.</li>

<li>Import all images into LR.</li>

<li>Cull and edit in LR and PS.</li>

<li>Export jpegs to the "exported jpeg" sub folder.</li>

<li>Move the entire folder to my external hard drive for archiving, and manually copy and paste that entire folder onto a second external hard drive for backup.</li>

<li>Remove the images from LR. I keep ALL raw images, even rejects. </li>

</ol>

<p>Yes, yes, yes, I know, this is a crazy workflow<br>

Advantages of this workflow; it's simple to understand and it works for me, and it keeps things uncluttered. It also keeps images on my desktop while I'm working on them, so that the editing process isn't slowed by having to access files on an external drive, which always seems to add a frustrating fraction of a second with each and every edit (data transmission). Also, my file folders are clearly labeled so I know where to look for images if/when I need them in future.<br>

Disadvantages; Once the images are deleted from LR, it will be difficult to do any additional touch ups or editing if requested by a client. I would need to do the edit on the jpeg file, or reimport the raw file, etc. The other big disadvantage is that the catalog (see my comments below about terminology - not sure i'm using this term correctly) is living on my internal harddrive and I'm starting to run low on disk space.<br>

Complicating the issue is that I'm VERY unclear on some terminology used in the LR world, like "library", "catalog", "collection", "quick collection". I think any understanding of this issue on my part would begin with a solid understanding of what these terms mean.<br>

So here are my questions:</p>

<ul>

<li>Please define the terms library, catalog, collection using examples if possible.</li>

<li>If I wanted to use a more conventional file management approach which utilizes LR's functionality how would I do it? What would a more conventional workflow look like and what would be the advantages?</li>

<li>Perhaps most importantly, could I use one of my two 500 gb external hardrives as a location to which to import photos and have my whole workflow "live" there, rather than on my desktop where it is starting to consume memory resources? If so, what could I do to move data faster between the hard drive and the computer to avoid the transmission delay that occurs with every edit? Could I install firewire on an existing hard drive to speed this transmission? Or must I buy a faster external hard drive. </li>

</ul>

<p>I've printed about a dozen books on Blurb, and I agree with every comment. Especially with regard to the underwhelming final product. I think the software is excellent and very intuitive and the prices are very reasonable, but when the books arrive, they look a little cheap. Bottom line is they delivered exactly what they promised. I'll continue to use them until I need to change.</p>

<p>Hello everyone. I have recently started doing photobooks for a few clients. In the next day or two, I should start receiving the actual books from printer and I'm reluctant to just hand the book over to the client without some type of nice packaging/presentation. </p>

<p>I started looking into the idea of ordering some custom boxes, but there are a few issues with that. Namely, the books are 12x12, so the box would need to be about 13x13x2...not a common size. The other issue I'm having is minimum order sizes. Then I started thinking about custom gift bags but I'm having the same issues.</p>

<p>Also just handing the books over in their mailing box would be unacceptable to me.</p>

<p>Ideas?</p>

<p>I need to create photobooks for a few clients. This will be my first foray in albums and photobooks. I purchased and downloaded a few various templates, but the more I experiment with them, the more I think that these products, which are designed to make this process easier, are actually making it more difficult. They all use actions (which come with the templates) to insert the images into layer masks, which strikes me as wholly unnecessary.</p>

<p>So my question is this, is there any reason I can't just do my own layouts in photoshop, as layered, .psd files, without the actions and layer masks? I could come up with various templates of my own with snap-to guides and just insert the images on the background layer, and rotate size, crop, etc. to fit.</p>

<p>This seems like a MUCH easier way to do it. </p>

<p>Randall, are you saying that shooting slide film is a good option for shooting portraits even if I don't plan to project? If so, what would be the process? Would I have the slides scanned as jpegs or tiffs so I can retouch in photoshop?</p>

<p>Larry,good question. Let me offer some more detail. I have some really great lenses. 50 mm 1.8, 17-40 f4 L, 24-70 2.8 L, 70-200 2.8 L. I also have a well equipped studio.</p>

<p>I do some portraits as a side job, and shoot the occasional wedding. I also like to shoot the national parks just for enjoyment.</p>

<p>Good question about prints vs. slides. I don't know. What are the advantages/disadvantages and applications of each? </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hello all. I got into photography as the digital revolution was beginning and therefore my ENTIRE knowledge base (what little there is of it) is digital. This week I purchased a used canon elan film body, because I wanted to start working with film from time to time, just for fun.</p>

<p>Can anyone give me some pointers on the ins and outs of shooting film? MOst importantly, what considerations are there in choosing a film?</p>

<p>Sorry, I know I'm really asking for a crash course on a huge topic, but I just want someone to get me started.</p>

<p>ALso, I do not plan to do my own processing, so we didn't go there.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone, I just purchased an elan 7e for $56 on ebay! Thanks for the tips!</p>

<p>Thanks art, wish i could take credit for it, but it was just something i picked up on photo.net.</p>

<p>I intentionally don't even try to remember. I hate it when my sessions feel like an assembly line. That being said, if you really want to have reminders (1) Never let your clients see you checking your cheat sheet. I think this would be a warning sign of an amateur (2) The best advice I ever heard on this topic was to create a file of jpegs of poses you want to use on your desktop/laptop, and then save them on a memory card. Then use that memory card in-camera during your shoot. You should be able to review and refer to the the images in the folder during your session, and the best part is that your clients will think you're just reviewing their shots.</p>

<p>Mark-good point. I think it's not so much the ae-1 i'm interested in, as much as maybe just shooting some film.</p>

<p>Ralf-ooops, you're right, I knew that. was typing faster than i could think.</p>

<p>"hot shoe".....not "show".</p>

<p>Hello everyone. I woke up this morning with an urge to buy an ae-1. I'm pretty sure I've read that they aren't compatible with ef/ef-s lenses, but there are adapters available (I have several L lenses that I would like to be able to use). I'm assuming that even with an adapter I would lose autofocus, etc. Can anyone confirm that adapters can be used, and where I can purchase one, and how much I can expect to spend on it. Also, I'm assuming that I will be able to mount a flash trigger on the hot show...any reason this wouldn't be true?</p>

<p>Nk, thanks for a great book. I am 100% self-taught as a photographer, and as such, I read many books on a variety of related topics. I am frequently VERY frustrated with authors who may be subject matter experts, but who clearly have major issues with understanding the adult learner. There are several things you do in your book that I wish other authors would learn to do:</p>

<p>1. Use consistent terminology.<br>

2. Explain key terms and concepts at the outset, and explain why they will be important.<br>

3. Explain decision making trade-offs..for example, when discussing camera or flash settings, and choosing between setting A and B, explain when each choice may be advantageous, and what the trade offs and consequences might be. Use examples.<br>

4. Be clear about when you are offering facts or opinions.</p>

<p>Thanks again NK!</p>

<p>Hi everyone. A few weeks ago, I posted a question here about Canon flash, and one response was from Nadine, who recommended reading "mastering canon flash photography". I took this advice and the book arrived from amazon yesterday. I've only read about 40-50 pages so far, but I can already say that this is easily the most informative and understandable book I've ever read on this subject. Highly recommended.</p>

<p>Thanks for the great rec. Nadine!</p>