nikbryant

<p>You might try just dragging and dropping them to a folder on your desk top straight from the camera media. Then you can access the folder from PSE8</p>

<p>Nik</p>

<p>Richard, just a side note.<br>

few people remember where the pic's are stored 10 years after the wedding. ;-)</p>

<p>I am a photographer that ruined all the shots at a wedding I did. I refunded all the $$ sold most my equipment and didn't touch a camera for years after that. I wish I could use the "camera malfunction" thing but it was all on me! Did too many weddings and got complacent (and lazy)</p>

<p>I feel for the photographer, but she had NO BUSINESS selling her work.</p>

<p>I think you should do what ever is needed to get all the money back, warn all your friends, <strong><em>but also don't let this be a thorn in your side for the next 50-70 yrs. Enjoy your life, wife and kid(s)</em></strong><br>

Congrats on the baby on the way! (hint: give your wife a Mother's day gift this year)<br>

Good Luck,<br>

Nik</p>

<p>I've had the K1000 for about 30 yrs now. this camera has traveled all through the USA and Europe, it has never failed me! i have dropped kicked and generally not treated it nice. I would reccomend this to antone wanting to learn<br>

Tou are doing the right thing by wanting to learn manual first</p>

<p>one way I started out making money in photography was to approach parents in parks and offer to take candid pics of their kids. This was in the late 60's, I was never accused of being any kind of a pervert, and I made enough $$ to buy my RB67 cash in '73.<br>

I think, we in the good old US of A have been conditioned to believe that there is a terroist or pedofile hiding behind every lamp post waiting to hurt us or someone we love.<br>

I miss the old days when kids played outside until the street lights came on...</p>

<p> </p>

<p>actually, for a beginner I think a used FILM SLR would be the better choice. I'm an old-timer so I would say a Pentax K1000 with a couple lenses, should be cheap. This way, for a couple hundred dollars you can see if photography is something you really want to spend time and serious money on. Having the basic understanding of how a camera works is important, even in these days of auto/program modes. </p>

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<p>The road through my eye (overlay with retina pic)</p><div></div>

<p>I have worked in the semiconductor industry for well over 30yrs now, I have been blown up in a H2 explosion, been burned with Nitric/Sulfuric and Hydrofloric Acid (HF) been gassed with Diborine, HCL, been burned with Silane gas (a pyrophoric, burns in contact with O2) and many other things. the industry is why i have 2 artifical knees... So what does that have to do with anything? In my experance the MOST DANGEROUS chems/gasses etc are the ones that diplace O2, the chems you are using are not in of themselves killers, but when you are working in a closed darkroom the fumes can displace the O2 in the room. The FIRST sign of O2 loss is dizzyness and headache. proper ventilation is a MUST! I have been around very dangerous chems most my life and have learned the MSDS is your friend. I also feel that a attitude like "it didn't hurt that guy" is not a safe one. everyone has a different level of tolerance to these things. If you feel ANY adverse effects with ANY chems (household, paint, cleaning automotive etc..) take a step back and research what you are working with.<br>

Be Safe 1st,<br>

Nik</p>

<p>I have worked in the semiconductor industry for well over 30yrs now, I have been blown up in a H2 explosion, been burned with Nitric/Sulfuric and Hydrofloric Acid (HF) been gassed with Diborine, HCL, been burned with Silane gas (a pyrophoric, burns in contact with O2) and many other things. the industry is why i have 2 artifical knees... So what does that have to do with anything? In my experance the MOST DANGEROUS chems/gasses etc are the ones that diplace O2, the chems you are using are not in of themselves killers, but when you are working in a closed darkroom the fumes can displace the O2 in the room. The FIRST sign of O2 loss is dizzyness and headache. proper ventilation is a MUST! I have been around very dangerous chems most my life and have learned the MSDS is your friend. I also feel that a attitude like "it didn't hurt that guy" is not a safe one. everyone has a different level of tolerance to these things. If you feel ANY adverse effects with ANY chems (household, paint, cleaning automotive etc..) take a step back and research what you are working with.<br>

Be Safe 1st,<br>

Nik</p>

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<p>Tiffany<br>

Here is my contribution from a recent business shoot...I really don't know what it is, but it looked really important, quite abstract and the room was dark with weird yellow light....how could I resist?<br>

I get the joke, yellow light; resist, I,ve been in that room for over thirty years now ;-). Very nicely done under difficult conditions<br>

Nik</p>

<p>Here is mine for today, shot w D300 70-300mm 1/800 f11. Enlarged it a bunch to see this, is it a UFO or what?</p><div></div>

<p>I cry every time i see these memorials to the brave men and women that have fallen to portect us all, no matter what country or side they are from. And the insanity of it all.</p>

<p>Mike you were given a wonderful gift to be able to shoot from a usally restricted area, and you used that gift well!! thank you for sharing</p>

<p>Nik</p>

<p>I have a rider on my homeowners insurance that covers replacement costs, it is @$120/yr. I have not had to use it (knock on wood). My agent says it is a "no-fault" kind of thing so the way I understand it any loss is covered. This is through Allstate, we are VERY happy with this company. We had a fire at my house a few years back (before the rider) and they were great (replaced the 1 lens that was water damaged). Check to see what you can do with your homeowners insurance.</p>

<p>Since I am on the insurance thing... Check your homeowners policy (USA, don't know about other countrys) and check to see if you have a "code rider" this is a cheap add-on that covers needed upgrades if you have damage. The way it works is this; say you have a fire that damages part of your home, if in the course of repaires you need to upgrade to meet building code, if the section is not part of the original damage you pay out of pocket. My situation was the electrical service was not involved in the fire but was only a 100amp panel, because the wiring was damaged the panel needed to be brought up to code. Out of pocket @$1.5k, (also GFI has changed to Arc-Fault in wet areas and bedrooms and is abought 10x the price, the old IBEW in me).<br>

Tell your friends about this, it can save thousands!<br>

Good luck,<br>

Nik</p>

<p>Hawk's breakfast<br>

D300 70-300 f4.0-5.6 ISO 3200</p><div></div>

<p>I so AGREE with John A!!! I started taking pictures for money in the late 60's, did commercial ads, model portfolios, weddings, pretty much anything thing that paid. The problem was that I had no concept how to run a business. I very effectively ran my studio into the ground and killed everything I LOVED about photography! It took me over thirty years for the passion to come back to me!</p>

<p >So, no you don’t need a formal education in photography, BUT if you want to do it as a pro please get some kind of training in business basics.</p>

<p >Good luck, keep the fun, passion and art in your soul,</p>

<p >Nik</p>

 

<p>one last shot at it... I like it in color and cropped closer</p><div></div>

<p>The D70 was my first DSLR (bought it used! $900 USD), I upgraded this year to the D300 after 3-4 years of heavy use. my wife took the D70 and gave my daughter her D40 (I guess we are an Nikon family).<br>

We have had NO problems with the 70, is has traveled with us all over the southwest USA and has not always been treated nice. I have never used the D50 and have no opinon to offer on that body. I feel that the D70 was a great step from film to digital, I shot all manual (K100 Pentax, Mamiya C330, Mamiya RB67 etc...) with the 2 knobs for adjustments I found the transistion eaiser. I think for the price this is the perfect choice.</p>

<p>Thank you all for the input, much more to look at and think abought. I was thinking the 500g was a minimun as I will be using it as main storage. It's Sunday here in the great southwest so I'll start looking... thanks again</p>

<p>Can anyone reccommend a good reliable inexpensive portable HD? I have been looking at the Western Digital - My Passport Essential 500GB External USB 2.0 Portable Hard Drive at Best buy for $119 usd. any thoughts?</p>

<p>Lex and all, thank you for the insight into the 3/3 "stuff"... I personally don't much care about the ratings (well almost) but would love to have honest critiques, not "great pic" comments but the ones that say "I like XXX because... but you might try ZZZ" I joined this site to learn new and re-learn fogotten stuff. I also joined because this is the site with the best overall photographers, general and specific equipment info, and a fun group of people.<br>

I want to become a better photographer and feel this is the place to learn.</p>

<p>Thanks guys, that is what i thought. I still think I will get the RB and start doing my own developing again, that would be fun.</p>

<p>I saw a post earlier this week that has me REALLY wanting to go back to the RB67. I used one in the early 70's

and to me it was the best camera i ever held! My question is; are there digital backs availible for this camera

that won't require a 2nd mortgage on my home? What level of quality should I expect?<br>

I am looking at getting a used RB and would like to stay digital if possible.<br>

Thanks for any and all info</p>