ajweiss

I would put in a vote for getting the Canon 135 2.8 SF. People forget about that one, but it is

a pretty fast 216mm equivalent on a 350D, and great for lower light at a distance and on a

budget. It is less than half the price of the f/2.0 version. I got one for under $300 new by

waiting around for sales, and they can be had for much less used. With the Soft Focus off, it

is a VERY good lens.

The big question for Jen is this: Are you willing to spend a few hundred dollars for better

pictures? If so, how much? If not, then most of the suggestions here won't work very well for

you.

Are you still using just those lenses? If so, "weather sealed" does not apply to anything you'll

be shooting with.

Which 70-200 were you thinking of? If the f/4, how would you use it?

I recently chose the new 70-300 IS over the 70-200 4L for greater versatility.

Which ever telephoto zoom you choose (if you indeed get one), you do realize that you can

get the 50mm 1.8, the 85mm 1.8, and either zoom mentioned above for about $1000,

right?

You need to give us a bit more info as to why you want a new lens. Is it for extra reach,

sharper images, low-light shooting, narrow depth of field, or some combination of those?

Any of the mentioned lenses will give you sharper pictures (more with some than others),

but only some can do the other things for you.

There are focusing screen replacements for some cameras that provide lines for 4x5 ratio or

square ratio shots. The 20D does not support this in terms of Canon equipment, but I believe

there are other companies that make alternative focusing screens.

Well then, welcome Phillip!

Had you ever used the card in a different camera? If so, that is where the numbering

difference may have come from. Also, if someone did use the camera once or twice with a

high-shot card it could change the counter without actually proving that the camera had

taken that many shots itself.

Many camera stores here in the US will open a new camera to let someone see it in the

shop, the put it back in the box. It may have only been demoed, not really "used."

Adam

Denis is exactly right. Get the white balance right (I would say shoot RAW in a studio setting

and set the WB later). The exposure is a little dark, but better once you fix the white

balance...<div></div>

The file numbering assertion Canon made is true. When you place the card in the camera, the

camera updates its numbers immediately (watch the CF access light). When you format the

card in the camera, the camera sets the card numbering as part of the format process.

As for the other settings, I don't see any reason they should differ from the defaults if no-one

has ever used the camera.

This question may have the least information of any I have seen on this site.

What are you asking us to compare?

Are you going to be using small apertures on a tripod? If so, the differences between lenses

get smaller as apertures get smaller.

After a few emails back and forth with the company, I just got my new unit in the mail. In

the troubleshooting process, they asked me to open the unit up. I found that the screws

were stripped at the factory and the screw-mounts were broken. Also, the hard drive was

flopping loosely in the unit.

That explains it! The new one is fine.

You can certainly get very large prints from many places, but they will cost you quite a lot.

A real 30x40 digital print is much more "high end" than a poster.

Well, since flashes and tripods are usually not allowed (and are annoying to other visitors

even if not explicitly banned), fast lenses are important.

Other than that, it depends upon what you will be photographing in the museums. Some

things will require close focus distance, others a long reach, and still others a wide view.

For paintings, pick a lens with very low distortion.

If you want one "museum lens," maybe a fast 24-70, 28-75, or similar would be good for

film with an 18-50 2.8 like Sigma's for 1.6x digital. You won't get low distortion that way,

though. For that, maybe you should look at the Canon 50mm macro?

Give us some more details on what you'll be shooting.

Well, the Hoya 72 is a popular filter that will cost you $283.50 (at B&H) for your 24-70. I

suggest you learn more about digital infrared before trying it:

<p><a href="http://www.photo.net/learn/optics/edscott/spectsel">Photo.net</a>

<p><a href="http://www.google.com/search?

client=safari&rls=en&q=digital+infrared&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8">Google</a>

No, but you do need special film.

You've previously posted a question about a 5D, so if all you have is digital it can be

harder. Digital cameras filter out most infrared light, though it is possible to get pictures

of static objects with long shutter speeds and special filters.

You might be better off buying a cheap film body and some IR film to get around those

limitations.

<i> I found out the compatibility problem on a forum (may have been this one not too

sure)</i>

<p> You should check this out with Sigma. As two of us here have said we have no similar

problem, this may just be your unit. I have not heard about any compatibility problems

with this lens.

Henry,

Which Sigma lens is that? I have the 24-70 f/2.8 EX DG, a 20D, and a 420EX flash and have

no problems. What do you have, and what exactly is happening?

Adam

After getting good advice in a recent thread, I decided to buy a Hyperdrive HD80 (aka

CompactDrive PD70X). My unit came in the mail today and seems to work fine. However, I

have experienced a strange noise/vibration when moving the unit. If the card reader end

of the unit is moved somewhat briskly back and forth (not quite shaken, but a normal-

speed motion close to that), I can feel a slight movement from within the unit. An almost

imperceptible "thunk" can also be heard. Is this normal? Is something loose? I am not

shaking it violently, just moving it quickly. It is not the batteries, as it does it without them

installed.

I bought the unit from Hyperdrive with a 40GB drive installed. Do other users have the

same experience?

<i>Can I use an EF-S lense on a film camera?</i>

<p>No.

If you want small and light, and f/2.8 zoom is not for you. If you want low light and image

quality, it is. Incidentally, your G1 has a zoom approximately equivalent to 35-105, which

matches the 24-70 range on a 1.6x DSLR almost exactly.

Lest it seem like I'm ignoring your question, here's a thought: Does your G1 cover a range

you like? With that in mind, compare its 35-105 range to the others (on a 1.6x DSLR):

28-135 => 45-216, has the advantage of IS (so +2 stops for static objects)

24-85 => 38-136

24-70 => 38-112, has speed advantage of 2.8 aperture

Price, from low to high: 24-85<24-70<28-135, but all within $110 at B&H.

Sharpness: 24-85<28-135<24-70

Weight: 24-85<28-135<24-70

If you regularly use the G1 at its widest angle, you'll be frustrated by the 28-135, as I was.

I got the Sigma because 24mm is a much better wide end for me on my 20D.

If I were you, I would be choosing between 24-xx lenses here.

Why not get a Sigma 24-70 2.8 to have a wider angle of view and a stop or two of extra

light? If the IS on the 28-135 was a selling point for low light, an f/2.8 lens should fit

nicely.

I have both a 28-135 IS and the Sigma for my 20D, and I've only used the IS lens once or

twice in the year since I got the Sigma. In fact, do you want to buy one?

In all seriousness, look at faster, sharper glass to complement your 50mm 1.8.

If it is the same noise I hear from my 420EX, it is the sound of the capacitors being

"topped up" every few seconds.

James,

Did you buy it with a credit card? In the US at least, many credit cards provide 90 days of

protection for new purchases. If you used a gold or better card, you may be able to get it

fixed or replaced through the credit card company.

Adam

Chris,

If you are used to the image quality and large aperture of your 50mm, you will be

disappointed by options 1-3. Option #4 will give you a 28-300 range with better quality

and speed than the 28-300 or 28-200 lenses. However, you will still lose out significantly

in terms of aperture and sharpness when compared to the 50mm.

Therefore, I will propose another option: a Sigma 24-70 f/2.8 EX DG Macro lens (~$400)

and your 100-300 Canon zoom. The price will be between $600 and $700 for the pair,

which may be a little high for you. However, it will get you a fast, sharp, wide-to-short-

tele zoom and a decent telephoto zoom for close to your price range. A favorite pairing of

mine is the Sigma with the Canon 70-300 IS mentioned above, but that runs into the ~

$1000 range.

If you like the low-light ability and shallow depth of field of your 50mm, you'll be happier

with a good, fast zoom than a slow superzoom. The only way to do that with your budget

is to get a lens like the Sigma 24-70 2.8. Tamron also makes a good 28-75 2.8 (that

would bring you in under $600 instead of a little over), but the ability to go to 24mm

might be nice as you explore new kinds of photography.

Rob, thanks for the word on the HyperDrive Mini. To me, it looks like it will be to

expensive for what it is (namely a little smaller with a recharge-only battery). I already

have an iPod, so I wouldn't use the mp3 capability of it.

However, the news that PD70Xs are available in the US without the need for import

convinced me. I think I'll go with one of them, as they are the only device I've seen that

gets good reviews across the board when it comes to reliability (and they now include true

bit-verification).

Thanks everyone!

Adam