darek_fortas

<p>Hiya,<br>

I was just about to purchase 77mm cir pol from Hoya for my amiya RZ Pro II D, all my lenses are of course manual focus.</p>

<p>Questions:</p>

<p>1. Will I get the shadows when using the filter with wide angle mm lens (55mm as far I can remembe)?</p>

<p>2. I was browsing around to find more about the filter on Hoya website and it says "So we recommend that you choose a PL-CIR filter unless you have a manual focus camera which has no beam splitter."</p>

<p>I'm confused now, can somebody with more knowledgable enlight me as to wheter or not is worth to invest with CPL on manual lenses?</p>

<p>Best,</p>

<p>Darek</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I guess I pushed shutter not gentle enough, and it's blocked. It doesn't go lower that 1/60s , I can't set it even at higher speeds. Would you risk opening the lens yourself, or rather go to service? Can you recommend any LF lenses service in Dublin, IE?</p>

<p>Thanks for any useful advice.</p>

<p>Derek</p>

<p>Hi guys! I wonder which lead I need to get in order to synchronize Nikon SB 800 with Sinar f2, I need to use the fill-in function (manual mode only I guess) of the flash from around 5 meters, in order to make subtle separation between foreground and background. </p>

<p>All the best!</p>

<p>Hiya! I'm looking for some reviews of Computar Symmetrigon 210mm f/6.3 , would the lens perform well on 4*5 camera, applications are mainly fine art portraits a la Alec Sothb :-), would you use is as a standards prime?or rather as a specific lens only for the portraits, I know the 4*5 standard lens is around 150mm. I wanna make sure that the lens is wide enough to take full body portrait from 5m?</p>

<p>Regards, </p>

<p>Derek</p>

Any ideas about inexpensive alternative to the original imacon 6*7 neg holder?

200 dollars seems to be very expnsive, I have access to the scanner at the college. but there's no 6*7 insert...

Thanks!

Quick one... I know I'm gonna use it only in the manual mode, but I am looking for speedlight for mamiya RZPRO II D, I have Nikon DSLR, s

naturally I should consider sb800 and and 900 maybe Metz. I use the flash as a main source of light, in order to get separation between

background (that in the daylight will appear darker) and main model. I might use it as a slave unit and fire it through infra-red. What about the

power of Nikon speedlight as compared to metz. I believe I shouldn't have any problems with using Nikon sb 800 on Mamiya with sync cord.

I know I loose TTL, but would you invest money in Nikon speedlight to work with mamiya? Any big difference btw sb 800 and 900?

Is anyone using it already? I would like to get some advice.

Thanks!

Quick one... I know I'm gonna use it only in the manual mode, but I am looking for speedlight for mamiya RZPRO II D, I have Nikon DSLR, s

naturally I should consider sb800 and and 900 maybe Metz. I use the flash as a main source of light, in order to get separation between

background (that in the daylight will appear darker) and main model. I might use it as a slave unit and fire it through infra-red. What about the

power of Nikon speedlight as compared to metz. I believe I shouldn't have any problems with using Nikon sb 800 on Mamiya with sync cord.

I know I loose TTL, but would you invest money in Nikon speedlight to work with mamiya? Any big difference btw sb 800 and 900?

Is anyone using it already? I would like to get some advice.

Thanks!

I got 5 pack of Fuji Provia 100F recently. I have in intension of photographing people in available light, I might use reflector to get an even

exposure efect. My question is what's the difference in metering the light. I use 120 film, how would you recommend to expose that film?

Should I rate it as a ISO 50 or 200? I came across very distant advices on the forum. I'm using slides first time, but I'm aware of much

narrower dynamic range than for intance Fuji 160H.

What I normally do is emphasize what I want, normally the the lightest area of the face, It worked for me all the time for normal film.

What I want to achieve is well balanced portrait.

What if I shot in more dim light, where the light is one the face only, I've seen some "brutal" photo shots where everything was slightly blurred,

what was the cause of that? I read some post before, someone suggested that light ratio was too high... SO does it always happen or that was

photographers fault with metering?

ps. Would anyone have an idea on which material was shoot that http://www.belfastexposed.org/exhibitions/index.php?

exhibition=8&year=2005&show=past , would dynamic range be exeeded for slide film?

Which Billingham bag would you reccomend that is to work with mamiya rz 67pro IID with prosm and 3 lenses? Would 335 model be OK, or

should I reach higher?

Thanks!

Does anyone use slide film frequently so that she/he can tell the main difference between shooting on normal film and slide? I saw slides few

days ago from friend of mine, they were amazing, but only when shot during very bright weather, when the sky was overcast there were not

that spectacular, it could be his own fault tough :-)

What you gain when you shoot on slide instead of normal film?

thaks for answers in sdvance,

ps. I'm interested in editorial in available light, so is there any slide film that can handle that? (iso 800)

I switched from digital nikon to mamiya medium format AND I dont want shoot digital anymore (not to mention scanning negs:-)

Viva la medium format!

Hi everyone! I', planning to upgrade my Mamiya RZ Pro II D with prism finder without built-in light

meter. Would any prism finder dedicated for Mamiya RZ 67 be compatibile? I have the same question

regarding spare 120 back.

Regards

Derek.

I would like to see opinions in relation to what is better to use for image

processing generic laptop or mac boo pro. Propably you know my my concern is:

generic laptop with the same spec (4gb Ram, 512 mb graphic card and 2.5 due

core process) is much cheaper, and I'm wondering what is the difference, apart

o operation system between apple and generic laptops i.e. acer, or hp.

What is unique about the mac book pro compared to laptop from HP?

Thanks so much!

I've just got a Epson Perfection V500 and I cannot start it off . I got it in

US ,I live in Dublin , Ireland, so the obvious fact is that I'm supposed to get

an adaptor ot/and voltage conveter. I used the most ordinary adaptor 13 Amper/

240 Volts, and on the scanner says it work only in 1.3 Amper/ 24 Volts. What

would you reccomend in this case?

Thanks in advance, Regards Derek

As said above: gimme the reasons to buy IBook pro instead of laptop. Is it true

that Apple stuf really improves workflow, I dont mean here buying for apple

logo and pretending, but the real difference, if you had Ibook and laptopn from

HP for instance both with the same graphic card, ram mem and processor, why

would you choose Apple? Or maybe not...........

Hi! Have anybody tried to shoot 220 film in the 120 mamiya back? I'm wondering

if it's possible to shoot more than 10 frames ....

Thanks!

Can anyone reccomend any resourceful website or book regarding handling eposure

with flash. I mean how power of fired flash regards to aperture/shutter speed

combination. I've just seen few wonderful examples of one london based

photographer. Any good reccomendation whoch flash to use with Mamiya RZ67 PRO

II, I'm starting off medium format fhotography, so I'm looking for someting

reasonable priced.

Thanks!

How do you find using flash?

I know that standard lens for medium format is 80mm (square), which lens would

you reccomend to use for best results , I've been searching on ebay for 110 but

there's nothing... I wonder if the 80mm lens would be OK...

Do I have to get 110 lens?

Thanks lads !

Hi! I would like to have deeper insight into objectivity in photography. Can

anybody recomend any interesting texts, book or articles written by some

respeced peaople.

Tkanks in advance...

Hey! Has anyone had any experiene with shipping cameras from keh.com (usa)to

dublin. The prices there are so affordable, two times cheaper than in dublin. I

would appreciate if someone can tell me whether is worth or not.

Thanks in advance!

Things are simple: I was a boy whole year and I deserved a gift. I'm thinking

about Mamyia RB67 pro II, I found one offer around 800 euros(I havent argoued

about it yet, so it an be lower). The kit consists of one 120 back, body, waist

level fous finder and lens.

My question is:

1) Would you choose 110 mm lens or rather 180, I dont have any detailed

specifiations, but I'm gonna use the workhorse for indoor fine art , sometimes

loation (no, no wedding, hah). I would like to have standard 80mm in kit but

unfortunately... can someone enlight me in this matter. I saw 110 lenses on

ffrodes.com, even though second handed they are deerer than 180...

2) Backs... there's 120 back, 6*7 mask there, I'm thinking if it would be

possible to get back 6*6, someone may say that I can crop images on the later

stage, but I dont want think about cropping while shooting, I just wanna have

pure 6*6

3) Scanning... I have access to Hasselblad sacanner, it has 35mm neg holders,

6*4,5 , 6*6, I haven't seen in college 6*7 neg holder, is is possible to get

someting like that.

I'm writing that post to get rid of my ignorane reg mamyia, as everyone knows

ignorance is a cause of the suffering, so don't let me seffer... thanks in

advance for all answers.

Hi! I was going to produce high contrasty portraits, so I got 35mm roll of

Kodak TX 3200 mt( whats the mt?). I pushed it to 6400 to beautify the grain(oh

yea!) and kept it for 15 min in developer. The film turned out to be mostly

transparent. My question is the following: Does anyone know how to develope

TX3200 in pushed version properly? I was using XTOL in deep tank in

college(stock). Does anyone can post an idea how to handle it in shallow tank,

for instance using Rodinal?

ps. I heard thta Neopan 1600 is very pushable even to 6400, any ideas for

developing in small tanks using Rodinal?

Thank very much in advance for any hints

Bye

Hi everyone! One quick question: I got a lightmeter(brand new one, from

sekonic), and I have small problem because it tends to give me settings that

make my photographs overexposed. My question is about the way of calibrating

it, so that it'll give correct exposures.

aLL THE BEST