rick_mason

<p>This problem is a direct result of Digital Ice's incompatibility with Kodachrome, its well documented and even in the Epson V700 manual. Its something to do with how the infrared processing works and how it sees the silver in Kodachromes as dust.<br>

"The silver particles reflect the infrared light in a similar manner to dust particles, thus respond equally in visible light and infrared light. A similar phenomenon also prevents Kodak <a title="Kodachrome" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kodachrome">Kodachrome</a> slides from being scanned with Digital ICE (Kodachrome's cyan layer absorbs infrared)."</p>

<p>There's a real cheap solution now: an adapter cable that converts the MC-36 to MC-DC2 - its about $10 and gives you continued use from your expensive Nikon MC-36 intervalometer. Of course Nikon didn't have the foresight to come up with this adapter, they'd like you to buy a whole new intervalometer. Some guys in China did. Here's an example:<br>

Search for MC-30 (female of MC-36 ten pin plug) to MC-DC2, there's loads of them.<br>

Cheers Rick</p>

<p>Great work for posting that manual on the Bronica AEII Finder. I too got one of the auction site and via your manual was able to get it operating and it works! Aces. Thanks!</p>

<p>Thanks Andy for the definitive lowdown on the ACR and CNX lack of nexus. I suspected as much. A pity. Now as for the final comments by Steve I think you're misunderstanding me and perhaps also what CNX provides for the Nikon user. CNX produces your raw file with the same settings used to create the jpeg - stop there and think about that. This includes all the standard sort of settings but also other specific Nikon things like Active D Lighting and in camera presets like Vivid etc (which you can also then turn off in CNX instantly).<br>

But the main point is that your starting point for editing you raw files, should you need or want to, is exactly the same as your Nikon jpeg - thus keeping your files all with the same look and feel. You don't have to spend anytime trying to make you raw file look like your Nikon jpegs first.<br>

As for CNX2 for me its got nothing to do with the fact that its a Nikon brand - in fact I'd rather I could do my raw editing in ACR and thats why I asked the question.</p><div></div>

<p>Great thread, I've been struggling with this stupid problem for two years - why do my NEF RAW files look so flat compared to my JPEGS? Well I knew why, Nikon JPEG processing, but couldn't find a way to automate that processing in ACR (Adobe Camera Raw).<br>

Plus let me tell you I have often found it really quite difficult to emulate that processing manually inside ACR. Close sometimes but sometimes not that close at all. I need to do it because in my work flow if the JPEGS is good, fine I use that but if it ain't I have to use the RAW file and I need to get it to look like the other JPEGS.<br>

Well now I have Capture NX and its great the way it makes the Raw file just like the NEF straight away, with all camera settings, great. Trouble is apart from that the program is a clunky pig - Clunky NX more like. What do Nikon know about makeing software? Nothing and its shows! Can't they just make a Nikon plug-in for ACR and cut the crap?<br>

What I'd like to know is there any way you process NEFs through Capture NX so that you can then open them in ACR such that ACR will see the adjustments etc that make the NEFs look like the Nikon JPEGs? Then I could just continue on working on my RAW files in ACR happy as a duck. I'm Used to ACR, know all the bibs and bobs and can work quickly in it. I don't want to be stuck in Clunky NX. Can I make an XMP file in Capture NX that ACR will recognise?<br>

Thanks again for the thread.</p>

<p>I also just won one of these Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta 531's on that auction site. Its yet to arrive.<br>

I believe its a C as it has 6x9cm written on the inside of the film door along with BII and BMII8 (know idea what these mean).<br>

The pictures on the listing were shocking but the seller assures me it in good cosmetic and working condition.<br>

It has the number 2065346 written on the Tessar f/3.5 70mm lens.<br>

I'm curious about what year or thereabouts it might be as Zeiss Ikon seems to have made them for a long time.<br>

It came with a case, four filters, lens hood, cable release, lightmeter (WestonMaster II) and a roll of film (!).<br>

It set me back $Au99 plus postage.<br>

pics attached sorry for the poor quality</p><div></div>

<p>The Minolta X-700 often develops a similar problem and this turns out to be a burnt out capacitor which many people have fixed. The FS-1 is a similar type of electronic shutter camera from the same era. Perhaps its a similar type of fault.</p>

<p>Wee Hee! I love you guys, I just tried the "cntrl + shift + i" trick on my totally jammed nrealy in the bin Dimage and it WORKED! I did it as I loaded the software and all of a sudden it started making its normal whining noices and the jam seems to have cleared. Thanks so much</p>

<p>Wee Hee! I love you guys, I just tried the "cntrl + shift + i" trick on my totally jammed nrealy in the bin Dimage and it WORKED! I did it as I loaded the software and all of a sudden it started making its normal whining noices and the jam seems to have cleared. Thanks so much</p>

<p>Wee Hee! I love you guys, I just tried the "cntrl + shift + i" trick on my totally jammed nrealy in the bin Dimage and it WORKED! I did it as I loaded the software and all of a sudden it started making its normal whining noices and the jam seems to have cleared. Thanks so much</p>

<p>I've just done this job and found this page majorly helpful, particularly with the lens removal business and cleaning the gunk out. I'm still a bit confused about the shutter though. I have the shutter assembly removed. However, my shutter is stuck open and I can't see how to access it to start the lighter fluid cleaning. Should I just submerged the whole shutter (minus lenses)? I'm a bit loathe to do this. Also Mark what exactly do you recommend lubricating a shutter with? Thanks</p>

<p>Ricoh also made a XR Rikenon 16mm fisheye lens f2.8, I've got it. Its great. K mount.</p>

<p>Hi thanks Shun, yes I have used the same battery pack in each to no avail.</p>

<p>Hi, I've just collected a couple of Nikon f90X's at camera market and both are in pretty good condition. However, one of them is showing no LCD readout in the viewfinder. The other one does. Is this a problem or is there some way you can turn this readout on and off. The LCD readout on the top is fine and everything else on the camera is good too. I've gone all through the manual but can't find any reference to an ability to turn the viewfinder LCD information on and off. I'm starting to think its a fault. Any clues?</p>

<p>Also here's what the original Rikenon kit lens looks like (bit dusty sorry)</p><div></div>

<p>I had one of these that I found in an opshop and sold it on eelbay. I was shocked when it was bid up and sold for $Au170!<br>

I thought it looked a nice camera but how many 35mm SLR's should you responsibly own? After a point you can't keep film in them and using them. I decided to sell it to fund an OM lens addition.<br>

Of course after seeing Mikes pictures and seeing the quality it produces I'm started to wish I'd kept it and shot some rolls through it. My one had the original Rikenon as well. How well do the later KR Super II's compare do you think? They are a lot smaller and lighter but plastic too.<br>

Here's the listing, its ended but still up.<br>

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260526223382&ssPageName=STRK:MESOX:IT<br>

and pictures here:<br>

http://www.jpegbay.com/gallery/000497072-Ricoh-XR500.html#I1<br>

<img src="http://www.jpegbay.com/gallery/000497072-Ricoh-XR500.html#I1" alt="" /></p>

<p>Yes its a bit of a looker isn't it. I had not heard of the model before either. Its pretty fully featured for its time and must have cost a bit. I was dismayed when the shutter stopped working. It kind of like the shutter button itself has got all sticky - when you depress it it doesn't pop up again properly, only very slowly.</p><div></div>

<p>Mamiya Auto Metra - I recently picked up this lovely from an op shop for $8 with its case and lens cap. I can't seem to find very much info on itand was wondering if anyone has had any experience with it. Some have said its similar in some respects to the Walz Envoy. I was attracted by this example nice finish (especially the grey leatherette), working light meter and fastish f1.9 lens. The shutter was working when I left the store but later that evening it stopped working :( with symptoms of the shutter release button being slow and sticky.<br>

If Mike KOvacs is out there I saw a thread from yeras back taking about the Walz Envoy that has shutter linkage issues and some possibility of adjustment. I would love to hear more about that and possibly pictures?<br>

Cheers, Rick Mason</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>Actually, and I don't mean to be prissy, but Sokol means "Falcon" (not "so called"!). Although I freely admit Falcon is a little bit of a high flying moniker for this tank. Then again I've never seen a Soviet falcon.</p>

<p>And here's proof that people were involved in the quality control on this camera - a technician at the LOMO factory in Leningrad calibrating a Sokols rangefinder (courtesy of Alfred Klomp).</p><div></div>

<p>What about a Sokol?</p>

<div></div>

<p>Is the CR123A not a 3 volt battery? I thought the Yashica Electros needed 5.6 volts.</p>

<p>I teach photography at a university and each semester about 25% of the students who learn and get into photography on digital SLR's want to then have a go with film. They ask me about cameras and where to get film. They then all troop along to Perths camera market (held very six months here) where I also see loads of other students and other youngsters getting film camera to use.<br>

Many students ask me how to go about getting a look other than the clean, crisp ubiquitous look of digital. Then they ask me where they can get a Clack. There seems to be quite a bit of interest in Polaroids, Holgas and lomography etc at the moment.<br>

Digital is great for teaching the technical basics of phtography because of the instant feedback, but after that students become interested in making pictures.</p>

<p>Thanks for that Al, much appreciated. I did read the manula because it came with one (!). I didn't find it as clear as your explanation. I tyhink there's something wrong as its not doing anything at all now. Totally stuck, can't wind up or relsease the tension. I'll have to put it aside for the minute unitl i get some time.</p>

<p>I've just got one of these, the 1.7 version. I was able to get the light meter working with a 625 battery plus a wad of aluminium foil. It won't fire the shutter however. Does anyone know if you can fire the shutter without a battery? I have yet to see my shutter do anything. Although I have seen the aperture change with light changes and the light inside the viewfinder lights up upon battery check. I know you have to have film in it to charge the shutter with wind on but I just get click whirr but no shutter action. Cheers</p>