azn137

<p>Nikon has a complaint department, run by Helen Waite. If you have a complaint, you can go to Helen Waite.</p>

<p>http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Sigma+70-200+2.8+review</p>

<p>Just a quick update for you guys: I returned the lens (which I bought for a REALLY good deal), bought it somewhere else (losing the good deal), and it works. I guess the lens was defective.</p>

<p>The camera works fine with my 50mm and 18-135mm.</p>

<p>I forgot to mention, I already turn the aperture to 32.</p>

<p>Hi guys,<br /> <br /> Just bought my D90 and the Sigma 105mm macro f2.8. When I mount the lens in, I'm getting an error message 'F' on the top LCD. This, from the manual, is due to lens mount problem. Can it be the case? I just bought the 2 in less than 2 days...<br /> <br /> Please help....</p>

<p>I was in your shoes a couple of months ago. I had the D80 with the kit lens 18-135. I wanted to get a lens that can do macro and portrait. I went with the Sigma 105mm Macro, and never looked back. This lens also fits your budget, as it's exactly $400. The lens never came off my camera ever since.<br /> <br /> TN.</p>

<p>I bought the Sigma a couple weeks ago, and couldn't be happier. Great lens and great price. I never feel the need of the VR because I don't think it's gonna help much. Here's a sample shot:<br /> <br /> <img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3305/3422174899_420db9b26f.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="335" /></p>

<p>I would settle for at least a D80, if not D90. D200 is just the D80 with some extra features, including metal body. I was in your exactly shoes 2 years ago, and I could not put up with the D40 any longer. That's my 2cent.</p>

<p>Thank you for the URLs Jim :)</p>

<p>I did actually look into the D5000, but no, it does not interest me. No wireless flash commander, and no old lens compatibility. Just bunch of bells and whitles I don't need.<br /> <br /> I really don't mind the plastic body of the D80/90. I've never had any experience with either D200/D300, but I'm sure I will be fine, as I was happy with my old D80. Moreover, I don't plan on using low ISO a lot. I mostly do macro, and sometimes indoor, which always involve high ISO.<br /> <br /> Looks like you guys' opinions are leaning towards the D90. Thanks a bunch for your inputs. I'll wait for another week or two, hopefully the D90's price will kinda come down a little.<br /> <br /> Thanks again, Tam.</p>

<p>If my post isn't in the right section, mods please move it to the right one.<br /> <br /> Before I ask my question, there are 2 things I want to say:<br /> 1) I lost my old D80+Sigma 105mm macro due to carelessness. Right now, I only have the nifty fifty and the kit lens 18-135mm from the lost D80 (plus some other junk).<br /> 2) Bestbuy is having their D200 on sale for $600.<br /> <br /> Now, I was able to come up with some cash, around $800. My question is, should I go with the D200, or the D90?<br /> <br /> D200: I think it's a really good deal for a body. I could use the leftover budget to obtain some glass, i.e. the new Sigma 10-20 f3.5 :) Needless to say, I need to hurry up and get the deal.<br /> D90: I think it's nice, with the new Expeed algorithm (adopted from D300), the 2MP extra, and the low light capability of the new CMOS sensor (ISO 200-3200). I'm not into the whole "high def video recording" thing, but I guess it doesn't hurt. Plus, the LCD is now bigger and provides richer colors (not really important either). The best price I found was around $800 body only. This, will leave me with the 2 lens I have for a while, as I have no leftover budget.<br /> <br /> I'm looking for you guys' opinions: if you guys have experienced with both models, please give me your thoughts. Otherwise, since I have a dilemma, I'm much open to your "what-would-you-do" response.<br /> <br /> Thanks.<br /> <br /> Tam.</p>

<p>http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/NikonD200/page12.asp</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>"With a high speed card the D200 out-performs its specified maximum number of frames, managing around 40 frames in JPEG mode before slowing. The overall performance is very impressive, up to five frames per second shooting with a large buffer capable of storing around 30 JPEG or 20 RAW files."</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Not sure if it stops after 100 shots though...</p>

<p>That makes sense Eric :) I've never looked at it that way. And TBH, I don't plan on getting a FX body anytime soon, my budget is quite low for one.</p>

<p>Thanks a bunch guys. It has been very helpful.</p>

<p>I'm sure I'm not the first to ask this question: why the hell do they call it 18-135m, instead of 27-202.5mm then?<br /> <br /> Thanks guys btw, that cleared it up.</p>

<p>That means I will never be able to experience the true view of wide angle until I get a FX body :(<br /> <br /> On the same note, my assumption is the new Sigma 10-20mm F3.5 EX DC HSM (http://www.sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3360&navigator=6) has the same effect: I'd get the 15-30mm view compared to a FX body, even though the lens is designed for small sensors?<br /> <br /> Thanks for your input Mark.<br /> </p>

<p>Before I ask my question, I've read: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/dslr-mag.shtml, http://www.digital-slr-guide.com/crop-factor.html and this http://digital-photography-school.com/crop-factor-explained<br /> <br /> I understand Nikon makes DX and FX lenses. DX's are for small sensor (crop factor 1.5) and FX's are for FF bodies. My question is, since the DX lenses will produce a smaller image circle, does it, then, have the crop factor? <br /> <br /> For example, the AF NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8D will produce a 35mm image circle, therefore, when I use it for my D80, I will get "75mm" instead. However, say, the AF-S DX Zoom-NIKKOR 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED , will produce a smaller image circle, do I get the 18-135mm view, or do I get 24-202.5mm?<br /> <br /> Sorry if my question was confusing. And thank you in advance.<br /> <br /> TN.</p>

<p>Not to mention the sweetest bokeh :)</p>

<p>From my understanding, no. It has to do with the hardware of the reader itself, nothing you can do (unless you wanna hack the hardware).</p>

<p>Well, it's definitely slower than any AF-S lens, I can guarantee you that :)</p>

<p>http://www.dpreview.com/articles/pma2009/</p>

<p>Or, you can just ask the seller where the lens was made. They cannot lie to you, for you can report this to ebay as a scam.</p>

<p>I'm not sure if you can, but maybe this'll help: http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html</p>

<p>Sorry to dig this thread up, but I have another question regarding the same topic. My brother, who has the Olympus (2x crop factor) 50mm f2.0, does not experience this. His lens states f2.0 regardless of where he focuses. Is it because Olympus doesn't show the effective aperture, or they can actually have f2.0 when focused at 1:1 ratio?</p>

<p>Thanks guys.</p>