azn137

<p>I did this once when I was in Lake Tahoe. If you happen to shoot in cold condition, you need to make sure you camera is warm enough too. I was doing the same thing, and my D7000 battery died after a few hundred shots.</p>

<p>You'll need battery pack that allows you to have 2 batteries.</p>

<p>Wow, seems like you got yourself an awesome steal. The price of 10-20mm f3.5 is near the whole kit. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-3-5-EX-Nikon/dp/B002D2VSD6">http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-3-5-EX-Nikon/dp/B002D2VSD6</a></p>

Someone else recently went through the same issue. http://mansurovs.com/anatomy-of-a-nikon-d800-fix

<p>I have the Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4 DC Macro OS HSM on my D7000. Not the greatest lens I've seen, but it does the job when I need it.</p>

<p>I'll ask the obvious question: why don't you conduct your own test?</p>

<p>So yes, I confirm that the focus point is well indicated on the back LCD and not the top LCD.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone.</p>

<p>@Elliot Bernstein: I'll try that when I get home today. Thanks for the tip!</p>

<p>Aww, that's lame. The D90 has that feature, which I love.</p>

<p>Thank you for your input.</p>

<p>Hi, I've just got my brand new D7000, and I had a photoshoot using it last weekend. I did read the manual, but I couldn't figure out how to make the top LCD show where my focus point is. <br>

When I put it in Single Point AF mode, the top LCD always shows the center point being the biggest. Dynamic, Auto and 3D Tracking AF modes show a bunch of points.<br>

I have tried both 39-point and 11-point, AF-A, AF-S and AF-C.<br>

When I move the focus point using the arrows, the point is moved within the viewfinder, but the top LCD doesn't indicate that. Am I missing something?<br>

Thank you!</p>

You mean like a remote trigger for you D7000?

In fact, you can purchase it from Amazon for less than $100 http://www.amazon.com/Eye-Fi-Class-Wireless-Memory-EYE-FI-8PC/dp/B002UT42UI

I recently (last week) purchased one of the Eye-Fi X2 Pro cards (http://www.eye.fi/products/prox2). I must tell ya, it's one of the coolest piece of gadgets I've bought. Not only does it transfer wirelessly to your computer, but also iPad. I'm going to bring my iPad to every photoshoot now. It's so great.

I'm sorry, this is the correct URL: http://www.amazon.com/Eye-Fi-Class-Wireless-Memory-EYE-FI-8PC/dp/B002UT42UI/

In fact, the new price is now in effect: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/3662U109G55AV

http://www.engadget.com/2011/04/12/eye-fi-launching-new-8gb-wireless-sd-card-today-kicking-out-dir/

<p>Robert: That's it. Thank you so much!</p>

Thanks Mike. If I can't find one that's ready to go, maybe I'll get the kit and assemble it myself :)

<p>@Matthew: That ad expired last year :(</p>

<p>@Michael: I was actually looking for a physical device, as I don't own a laptop. Plus, it'll be more versatile that way. Although, I'll keep this option in mind. Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi guys,<br /><br />Simple question: where do I buy a set (already assembled and ready to go) of sound activated trigger for my Nikon D90? I've been searching on Google for a few hours, but all it gave me is the DIY stuff. If you know where I can purchase one, please let me know.<br /><br />Also, if this was posted in the wrong forum/category, please help me move it to the right one.<br /><br />Thank ya very much!<br /><br />-Tam </p>

The Sigma looks pretty good right here: http://www.slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1331/cat/30

<p>Ah okay, I'll ask him more about the details. Thank you Matt and Mark.<br /><br />I'll update this later about my findings. </p>

<p>Hi,<br /><br />The title says it all. I've recently been asked to shoot someone in his recording studio. This person, whom I barely know, asked for an hour shoot, and how much it would cost. The thing is, I've never done anything professionally, so I have no idea how much I should charge him and how I'd go about delivering the products.<br /><br />I've done some small homework, here are a few things I've found:<br />- I'll probably going to charge him somewhere between $80-$150/hour<br />- The "package" would include about 10-20 digital copies, high-res, with my watermark on the photos, and a print or two, with frames (frames can cost quite a bit) and no watermark. If he wants more prints, they'll cost $30/each (frames average about $10-$20 @Walmart or Ikea). Before this step, I will most likely send him a set of proofs to pick and choose which ones he'd like. Proofs will be lightly edited.<br /><br />Will you please tell me if this is something you would do as a startup pro shooter? If not, I will GREATLY appreciate any pointers you give.<br /><br />Thanks so much in advance!<br /><br />Tam </p>

I'd try to fix your capslock after getting the flash sorted out.

For my D90, I haven't had anything rather than the 8GB Sandisk Extreme SDHC 30MB/s class 10, so I can't tell you how the rest perform. I will tell you one thing though: it's better to overkill and underkill.