andrei_lau1

Sure! I'm using this combo, that also support E-TTL2.

I use an EOS3 as benchmark, with a 50mm f1.4 lens to test on the same subject. I find that on using matrix, the 20D was consistently over by about 1/3 stop. But if use spot (on EOS3) and partial (20D), the reading match each other.

 

I don't know which exposure is more accurate, but initial trial taking picture with 20D, I feel the contrast was lower and normally darker with matrix exposure. It seems that print out from a G2 is more eye pleasing. I may need more testing to draw the final conclusion.

I used to have a Tokina 400mm that it can't auto focus on my EOS3. I tried on 20D, and it works cheerfully. In the past 2 days I tried different lens on it, touch wood, I didn't experience the lock up yet.

Seems that this is a good DSLR, may be the only major appointment is its 1.6 crop factor.

Have a look at following link that give you some idea of how much equipment cost. The conversion rate is US$1 = HK$7.8.

 

http://www.ygdragon.net/indexp.html

If you manual focus why you need to half pressed the shutter? You do this then the lens try to focus on its own and you force it to focus to another point, it may damage the lens.

 

I just turn the focus ring on my f1.4 and it works as it should be.

You can try Wing Shing in Mongkok. (55 Sai Yeung choi St) This may not be the cheapest around, but it is reputable.

Do avoid those AV shops in Tsimshatsui, some of them are not honest.

At the moment, still no idea when stock will be available. When 10D was launch months ago, it took several months before stock are readily available.

I have a 17-35 but haven't used the 17-40. I like the 17-35 and it is one of the favourable lens for me. Though I found some vignetting wide open. Anyway for landscape it seldom needs to shoot at wide open. From the web there are tons of good reviews on the 17-40. So I think it depends on what offer you get. Either one will be good choice. BTW, seems that 17-35 does not compatiable with ETTL2 as it does not give distance information. I may be wrong, any one know about it?

I find Provia always comes back too strong in blue, in particular on shadow and if it involves the sea. Very too often the blue seas become dark blue. I scan and do a lot of adjustments in Photoshop but still cannot overcome the problem. I'll experiment Velvia 100F to see if it improves.

I got it directly from Canon service centre that it costs about $10 for the two. The problem is that they are not always in stock. I understand that it won't affect the functioning of the camera , but I still worry about dirt accumulate on the socket that may eventually disable the remote control in particular as the pin is really delicate. Also, without the cap I feel a little bit uneasy. At the end I may use cello tap to keep them in place if there is no other better means.

I have been keeping on lossing the 2 tiny caps covering the remote

control socket cover and the PC terminal cover. I would say it is a

big design fault from Canon that EOS 1v's hinge cover is much much

better. It's just too easy to go off by itself! Do you have any

means to keep them in place without resorting to using adhesive

tape?

No planning mode for this lens, sorry!

QT Luong,

Your web site is very interesting and the pictures are great. Just want to check if you use digital or film. If you scan what film does you use most often.

 

On the other hand, I find that the 28-135 is a little soft especially when under low light. f8 or higher will be better.

Andrew,

You are right. FD system is more light weight and compact, and the lens are much cheaper too and optically no difference (may be EOS wins for the super tele). The metering for current EOS models may be a bit better, but this won't be much problem after some practice and I believe most FD user has the experience. If you are still shooting film there is really not much reason to moving up to EOS.

I'm a bit disappointed that Canon still doesn't release a 3D type of DSLR. I'm looking for a 1.3 crop factor or better (not even a full frame) with good enough focusing ability. Ideally it will be light, 1D or 1Ds are just too big and heavy.

 

I'm also very disappointed that Canon does not come forward with a wide angle solution for the amateur photographer. Practically there is no means for an amateur user to shoot wider than 26mm (35mm equivalent) with the current DSLR of 1.6 (1Ds is just too expensive for average photographer).

I owned the 17-35L for quite a while and I find that it is the most used lens among all, far more than the all purpose 28-135. I don't find that the lens soft, instead it produces sharp image all the time. I like its perspective and it is an excellent travel lens. I have no reason to upgrade it to 16-35L despite its better reviews. The only complaint is that I find the hood sometimes difficult to screw in, may be it wears out a bit. Another slight drawback is that at the widest end and wide open, it may have a little vignetting. Nevertheless it is not that apparant if close down a little.

I find Fuji Superia XTRA 400 has quite fine grain. Actually for normal scan (2800dpi) I don't notice much grain and in fact better than many ASA100 films a few years ago. The price is quite reasonable too. I haven't tried Portra 400 and seems most reviews are good, I'll give it a try.

For Xtra the retail price is much cheaper. In my case eventually I'll scan into digital form, if the difference substantial between the two for scanning and whether the difference can be narrowed down with Photoshop?

What are the main differences in the 2 film and what is more

suitable for travel & landscape?

I had tried Raynox and it was terrible, highly distorted, a lot of CA. Finally I settle down on a Canon WC-DC58N which is much more superior. The only complaint is that it is big and relatively heavy, and its len cap is very loose and the front element like finger print! Nevertheless, the lens works well on G2. Lensmate seems having favourable feedbacks from many reviews, but I haven't tried it.

I guess the best solution at this moment of time is to use Nikon ED4000 and SF200 auto feeder. So you can put 50 slides each time before you go to bed and allow it auto scan, 6 month later you may find that all your 7500 slide converted to digital. Of course, you will need to spend additional time everyday to do Photoshop, cataloging and burning into DVD.

 

Go to search previous threads to find way to overcome the jamming problem of SF200. This may be the viable option to get the job done while still freeing you for somethings else.

Beware that the 28-135 is not that sharp below F8. If your work requires low light avoid this lens. Though it is in general a good travelling lens.

Any one has idea about how long the O-ring will last? I guess that the O-ring should be made of some kind of rubber, and it will harden over time. For these professional lens I guess we will expect it working 15 or 20 years from now. (my A-1 still works after 20 years!)

Beware of the compatibility issue if you are building up a lens collection and may in future upgrade your camera body. Sigma seems having problem on every generation of new Canon body. Tamron and Tokina seems better in this regard. Of course, Canon lens will be the best choice. You may also consider to look for used lens such as the 17-35L which price is falling due to the new 16-35L and 17-40L. This is still a great lens if not the best.

This site give some useful info on using G3 to shoot macro picture using reversal lens. Very interesting.

http://www.mplonsky.com/photo/index.htm

Actually with your digital camera you can try the following technique to get a even wider dynamic range.

 

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/digital-blending.shtml