denny_wells

I don't have a lot to add, aside from seconding (or thirding or fourthing) the recommendation for a Bogen/Manfrotto setup, and suggesting a couple of heads that have not been mentioned: I've used the 3265 for nearly 10 years and I find it extremely convenient and sturdy. Also, I've drooled over the 322RC2 - conceptually the same design, but without extending the camera so far from the ball, thereby increasing the effective sturdiness of the design.

Thanks Mark - I just read the next thread (the group shots thread), and found the same answer with this nifty DOF calculator:

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm

That is incredible DOF for f2.8. Is that an artifact of the 15mm fish-eye?

This is playing with equipment miles out of my price range - but it was interesting reading and pixel peeping anyway.

 

One of the most thoughtful responses I saw was this:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1021&message=26241433

, pointing out the relative pixel density of the cameras involved (simple math on sensor size and number of pixels).

 

This morning there was a thread about the fine quality of a large print from a 6 MP camera - an example of a real world application demonstrating that the in practice, MP's are not always king (though they are undoubtedly important). And then later in the day we get this pixel-peeping thread that demonstrates . . . well, that with more pixels you can do better clinical pixel peeping.

 

Fun reading!

Great followup Blake. My last post in your other thread had suggested the 70-300 - and you got it. Perhaps not cause-and-effect, but pretty cool anyway.

 

I'm just learning to process the RAW images too - it takes a while, but I'm getting faster as I learn what to look for.

 

I hope you continue to have fun with your new (to you) tools/toys!

This is actually a rather interesting / annoying feature of my XTi/400D. I am only starting to learn the camera, but the AEB on my film ELAN, when set, would trigger all 3 bracketed shots with a single release of the shutter button. On my XTi, in single shot mode I have to press the shutter 3 times to take the shots, or in continuous mode I must hold the trigger for 3 shots. This is (to me) a feature DOWNGRADE from my 15 year old camera. Anyone have insight into why Canon's dSLR's are like this?

Mine does.

Puppy Face probably has it right - although in response to the "Happens to all . . . eventually" comment, my 1993 ELAN has never had this issue. Perhaps that's because I live in Alaska where it is often cold & dry - not a very good goo climate.

Mark's description is awesome, but may be a bit too technical to be broadly understood. Here's my attempt to simplify:

 

The EF lenses are designed to make an image large enough for 35mm film. If you shine light through the front of one of these lenses, and put a sheet of paper behind the lens, you will see a circle of light (if you are lucky enough to get the right distance and focus, you will see an inverted image). If the distance to the paper is correct, the circle of light will be large enough that a 35mm negative/slide will fit within the circle.

 

Camera's like the digital rebel (350/400) and the 20D/30D/40D series have a sensor that is smaller than the 35mm film. The EF-S lenses have been designed to make an image big enough for this small sensor - but not so big as the 35mm film. A smaller circle on the paper.

 

There are also differences like the location of the rear element and the unique mount designed so that you cannot mistakenly put an EF-S lens in an EF camera, but the image circle is the biggest difference.

 

In theory, if there were nothing sticking out the back of an EF-S lens, you could use it on an EF full-frame camera - but you would risk getting large dark corners in all of your pictures due to the smaller image circle.

I have a friend who uses either setting 1 or 3. Doing that, he gets his exposure information by pressing the shutter button, but gets his focus by pressing the button on the back with his thumb. He likes that because he can easily seperately control the focus and the exposure (which you may not want to set based on the same location).

 

I find those settings rather annoying, and I use the 0 setting. On the rare occasions where I need seperate focus and metering, I can get exposure with the shutter button, then lock that exposure with the button on the back and recompose and re-focus with the shutter button.

 

We are discussing a digital camera here - there's nothing to lose by trying each of the settings for several shots in different situations and see what works best for you.

I poked around a little more - based on your deviantart site, it looks like you already have a 28-80. That being he case, perhaps the 70-300 would complement what you already own.

 

I found a bit more detail on the 70-300 (and my 28-200 XR, but not the 28-200 Super II) at: http://www.lensplay.com/lenses/lens_query.php - both rated middle of the road.

 

Based on your site, you're already getting good shots from ho-hum lenses. I'm sure that pattern will continue with either of these lenses.

Blake -

 

If I understand your criteria correctly, you are looking for a lens with a focal length covering ~200mm and a price <$50.

 

You will find a lot of responses here are from folks who use and recommend lenses costing $500+ (except for the general praise for the 50/1.8 which you have on the way). Sooo . . . you might not get a lot of really useful specific advice here.

 

I have a Tamron 28-200 XR, and both crop-digital and film shots from that lens are just OK. I have lenses that produce much better images, but when I consider the size / weight / focal range of this lens, I haven't been able to get rid of it yet. It is quite compact, covers a huge range, and has a place on my camera when I need to travel light.

 

I recently sold an old Canon EF 70-210/4.0 to a guy who posted a WTB in my local craigslist. I didn't need to get the KEH $120 for that lens, I just wanted it out of the closet and in use, and $20 was enough to prove he would use it.

 

You might try a local WTB posting, and barring that, good luck with one of the KEH lenses. I hope you have fun and keep learning!

 

Denny

Kenneth - You don't have to hold to 2 buttons simultaneously. You simply have to push the * after you've metered the scene with the shutter button. It will lock for several seconds - as long as you see the * in the viewfinder. This is the same on my brand new XTI as it is on my 15 year old ELAN. Except the XTI has several other choices available in CF4 to mix and match AE, AF and locks for each with the * and shutter in various combinations.

On my EOS Elan, I set a custom function that engages the apreature when I press a button on the back of the camera - this way I can actually see the DOF effects in the viewfinder before taking the shot. Probably not as precise as your scale, but it's been effective for me. I'm hopeful that when I upgrade to a dslr there will be a similar cf available.

Travis - Thanks for sparking this insightful line of questioning. I'm in exactly the same boat - converting from film to digital in advance of a trip, with OK but not great lenses (20-35 USM, tamron 28-200 & a recently acquired 35-350L that is super sharp but feels like carrying a cannon), and would like to buy for the long haul. This has provided great food for thought - alas, I'm still undecided.

I can't provide the specific lens-camera comparison you are seeking - but one factor that would be important for me: you can use the 16-35 (or 17-40L) on both cameras, while you can use the 10-22 on only one camera.

 

This site has reviews that I like, and he covers both of the lenses: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/

While I don't have experience with the specific lenses you mention, I own a Tamron 28-200 for my film Camera and it works acceptably well. I recently was lucky enough to get a used Canon 35-350L, and it definitely blows my tamron away in terms of image quality and focussing (though the Tamron is more inconspicuous and much easier to simply walk around with). If you are on a budget and need one lens to do it all, I'm sure one of these will work. If feedback on Amazon is to be believed, it looks like the Tamron 18-250 may have an edge among these four.

Thanks all for taking a moment to read and reply.

 

I think Kari & Denis are probably right - I should relax a bit (my wife says that a lot) - although it's not coffee so much as sugar for me.

 

Thanks Bob for the economics suggestion - to me that makes more sense in the long run, but this short term daily fluxuation just seems wierd.

 

The plastic vs. magnesium body comment causes me some concern - I've only seen that mentioned in threads that end with "those aren't reputable dealers, run away". Canon's own description of their 5d on their websites tout the rugged magnesium body - which begs the question, if Canon's not making a 5d with plastic bodies, who is? :) I'll stick with the reputable dealers, thanks.

There have been a couple of threads in recent months pondering pricing

(especially 5D pricing), but they have focussed largely on the international

price disparities. Being in the US, I'm most interested in our domestic

pricing.

 

I'm saving up to get a 5D before a trip at the end of January, and have been

watching the prices and seeing fairly significant fluxuation. Specifically,

here's the fluxuation I've seen over the last two weeks:

 

11/05 - $2115

 

11/08 - $2099

 

11/12 - $2075

 

11/13 - $2099

 

11/15 - $2199

 

(These prices are from Amazon, but have been followed pretty close by B&H and

Andorama).

 

I suppose there will be a fair number of "buy it when you need and can afford

it" responses - and perhaps a few "get the printer rebate" or "check out the

dell coupon" responses. I know. What I'm really curious about is if anyone

has insight into what would drive prices down and back up 5% like this over the

course of 10 days?

I've no personal experience with those lenses, but here is a pretty thorough review of the Sigma with comparison to the Canon:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-24-70mm-F-2.8-EX-DG-Lens-Review.aspx

I've found reviews at this site to be helpful:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/

 

I've only recently aquired an L lens, and I've never owned a top-of-the-line Tamron, so I can't give you much personal experience with the comparison you want. However my personal impressions owning mid-level Canon and Tamron lenses is that the Tamrons feel physically cheaper (more plastic, and looser connections of parts), focus slower, but produce comparable images.

Here's a vague hint from KEH:

http://www.keh.com/OnLineStore/rebate.aspx?parInventoryID=DC02999080493M

 

This is from a link indicating "rebate available" under their listings for 5D's.

 

Not sure if this is a KEH only thing, nor if it requires the printer purchase.

 

Hmmm.

I'd echo Robin's comment - if you are genuinely looking for a "wide angle" on your budget, the Canon 20-35 would be a good choice. I've learned a lot using mine on my film Elan.

 

When I have enough $$ I will replace my 20-35 with the 17-40L or 16-35L as Ken suggested - but I'm on limited budget too.

Are you sure you need an SLR? You can get really good results from a point and shoot too. If you check the specs on a Canon Powershot G9, you'll find them comparable (and in some cases better) than the dslr's. I've got friends who carry Powershot G7 as a backup to a dslr, and they get great shots.

Here's a site with canon lens reviews I've found helpful: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/

 

His 35/2 review in 10 words or less "good value, sharp but soft at the edges, pentagonal bokeh"

 

Since you are on a budget, you might consider getting a 40D & put the extra money into a 24/1.4L.