Life Photo-Documentaries

Thank you soooooo much... greatly appreciated.... 
I will follow the instructions... and let you all know the results...
Best regards

 

Greetings...
is there a way to re-group the images into different albums?
After reading AAAAA LOT about creating new albums... now I need / would like to re-group again the images already organized in albums but whose albums were deleted along the platform process .
The old platform allowed to move images from one album to another by right clicking ON THE SINGLE IMAGE... a drop box displayed and offered a series of option... among them the CHANGE TO ANOTHER ALBUM... 

Would somebody, please-please-please is kind to let me know if this is possible to do..  and a step by step set of instructions to gather images already posted in albums?

Thank you soooo much in advance for any input.. 
Best regards. 

Good luck, I hope it is that easy. Let us know.

Yes Sir, I Will let you all know

I recall there was a grip for the 40D that had a recall a number of years ago.

 

Try shutting off power to the camera, remove the grip and just use the battery directly in the camera.

 

Mark, thank you for your time and information. I will be trying with no grip...

Did you try cleaning the contact's, sometimes there's a bit of tarnish even on gold that effect's current.

Did you try cleaning the contact's, sometimes there's a bit of tarnish even on gold that effect's current.

Thank you for your input Sir.

I will be looking and leaning the contacts.

I do appreciate your time to share your thoughts.

No, I understand the difficulty with diagnosing highly intermittent faults. I also prefer to shoot with a grip on all my cameras and an EL1 instead of a strap, so I understand the impact removing the grip can have on your shooting.

 

Most recently (and this was several years ago), I had a similar problem w/ the BG-E6 on one of my 5D2s. The fault would present almost identically to your description. At first it would only happen once in a while, but it got worse and worse over the months. I assumed originally that there was a fault w/ the camera or the batteries, but I came to understand that there is some electrical plumbing that the power flows through, and that was what turned out to be causing the camera to behave erratically - the 40D's grip may be a simpler circuit than the BG-E6 (as it doesn't have to tie battery power into the camera's CAN to report chip info (etc.) since it is just using 'dumb' BP511s), but there's still plenty of potential to introduce problems.

 

Here's hoping you are able to isolate the problem easily!

 

I do appreciate your inputs... I have never had the issue with my 5DmII... Let see how does it progress :-(

Marcus, thank you for your input.

I may tray it, but it is a random situation... some times happens, other times does not happens along the day... I can work with no grip and see....

 

THank you for your time....

I have been having an issue with my canon EOD 40D. When less expected, during photo sessions the camera gets idle. No apparent reason. In order to put it back to work I have to detach the grip and remove the batteries. If I either remove the grip not removing batteries or I remove the batteries not removing the grip, the camera does not start working again.

No error message .. simply gets idle.

Please advice and or reason for this problem is greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance for your time.

Thank you Sir, I will seriously consider your comment!

Another option is a slide/film copying setup that was used in the film days.

• It is either a bellows or adjustable extension tube with a lens (bellows uses a separate lens, tube had a built in lens), and a slide/film holder.
  
• Attach it to your DSLR.
   
  
• Then get a light source behind it, and you are ready to go.
  

Another option that I saw in use was a small copying setup.

• a small copy stand
   
  
• a small light box
  
• DSLR with a macro lens
  
• The guy that I watch was copying slides, but I see no reason that you can't do uncut film as well. Just have to rig something to hold down the film, especially if the film has a curl.
  

Both of these options will require post processing with an image editor

• You have to reverse the B&W image in your image editor to get a positive image.
   
  
• I do not know if any of the image editors has a built in feature to convert color negatives, but I am sure you can do it manually. Once you figure it out, it will be fast to repeat it.
  

Thank you Sir, for your ideas.

Good evening.

I have beed doing homework looking for a good film scanner. I came across with two brands.

1) Pacific Image PrimeFilm XA Automatic 35mm Film & Slide Scanner

I read that this one is good for color (c41), but "cannot see well" b&W.

2) OpticFilm 8200i SE Film Scanner

From this one could not find specific details about how it does with either color C41, slides or B&W.

 

I used to have access to a Coolscan V but not any more... and have become exceedingly expensive... I am in the search of a good option.

Thank you for any input, comments, experiences about these two or other potential options than these two.

 

Best regards

Here's a little help tool from the early Eocene:

[ATTACH=full]1179611[/ATTACH]

 

JDMvW

 

Thank you for taking time to reply.

Those Eocene techniques are always "cool to know". I was not familiar with it, I will study to at least see how the numbers work.

 

THank you again and Best Regards

Why impossible? You can google your sensor's size in mm and pixels. You can count your subject's size in pixels on the screen too (auxillary lines might be helpful) some software (Adobe's?) even does the measuring between 2 points you are clicking.

Other approach: with focal length and extension / bellows draw known (or measured) and lens focused to (engraved) infinity you could calculate your magnification too. (Adding 0.5 focal length => 1:2 or adding the focal length => 1:1)

Is knowing magnification really critical for your mission? - As in operating a process camera to gain films for contact copying?

 

Jochen

Thank you for taking time to reply.!

When I said "impossible" I was thinking on measuring directly on the sensor as you do on film.! I think it was more a rhetorical expression. I had not considered an indirect way to measure knowing the size of your sensor and extrapolating the proportions to whatever the size of the real subject.

Part of my photography is scientific and I like to know magnification factors for technical purposes.

i do appreciate your inputs and time! Best regards.

Good evening

Technical question: I know that I achieve a 1:1 magnification ratio when, in film, the size of the image in the negative (film) is the same as the size of the object in real life. This is either with a macro lens or with extension rings.

Now, when we work digital where it is impossible to compare the size of the real life object with the size of the image in the "sensor", how do I calculate the amplification ratio?

<p>Good morning<br />I just bought a EOS TImer Remote Controller TC-80N3 from an Amazon seller.<br />When I connected the controller to either, 5D mark II or the 40D, the cameras start to shoot alone randomly.<br />I made sure all the settings are in 00:00:00, timer, intervalometer, long exposure and multiple frames.<br />Any idea of what it may be? Is it a defect of the product or Am I doing something worng?<br /><br />Thank you for any advice.</p>

<p>Greetings, John<br />If you are asking how open or close need to be your aperture to eliminate noise..., you need to OPEN in order to allow more light to get into the sensor and adjust your ISO to a lower number. In older cameras, and also new models, as high your ISO, more evident become your noise... so, open diaphragm to be able to reduce ISO, then you could reduce noise.<br /><br />Best regards </p>

<p>James... greetings...<br />I work my portrait sessions with the Photoflex XS litedomes, but using small studio setting with lights on light stands. <br /> <br />https://photoflex.com/index.php?/special-offers/new-savings<br /><br />The Lite Dome Have worked well for what I do... Now, another options are the on-camera flash diffusers.. like http://www.amazon.com/Zeikos-ZE-HD270-Flash-Diffuser-Canon/dp/B002NUYKVK/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0Y5FYM0H0HMG289BWF5A<br /><br />:-D<br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>Stephen and William, THANK YOU SO MUCH for your inputs... both were really helpful. <br />Greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>I am planing to buy extension tubes for Canon EOS. I would like please to read reviews / opinions about the difference between the Canon and Kenko tubes regarding with durability, construction, overall quality of the equipment.<br />I know Canon only has two "sizes" and Kenko has three (3). I know kenko less expensive... I have read some reviews stating that kenko are made "cheap" in construction and durability.<br /><br />Thank you in advance for your inputs<br /><br />Juan</p>

<p>Good afternoon and thank you in advance for all your comments...<br /><br />I recently got a Nikonos V, It looks like NEW... al gaskets and camera looks clean and shooter and aperture knob works fine..<br /><br />My question is what do the batteries power? I have not been able to see any exposure dial/ needle or scale... <br /><br />How do I set exposure... and what do the batteries provide power to?<br /><br />Thank you for your inputs...<br /><br />Juan</p>

<p>Dan...<br /><br />I Do appreciate your comment and time... This is what I was wondering... <br /><br />Thank you..</p>

<p>Ian...<br /><br />Thank you for your input... and your time to discuss the topic.. I do appreciate it.<br /><br />About: Softboxes take a relative point source and convert it into a wide area array of - even - light distribution (or at least they should). If this is not what your talking about then any comparison is very difficult to judge and the differences very difficult to determine.<br /><br />Yes, this is what I am talking about.. It is about the concentration of the "wide area array of - even - light distribution” ( that I artificially named as “beam” to make an mental image of the light being spread into certain area... ) that square and round soft boxes produce. As I mentioned, in some forums people said that octo boxes were more efficient in projecting light than conventional square ones.. I think like parabolic antennas projecting waves.. (light is a kind of wave) . HUMMM.. I think I answered my own question... ! <br /><br />About: In the context of "more natural looking light spread" "more efficient in the use of lights" "Smaller round/octagonal boxes delivered more concentrated "light beams”".... Compared to what exactly?<br /><br />According to what I have read.. compared to square/rectangular ones of the same size (diameter of the round diffuser compared with same side length of a square). I read this in a questions/answers site of photography.. Sorry I do not remember the link.. <br /><br /> About: With "more natural looking light spread" you will be comparing to the sun wouldn't you..? Thats the only natural light source I know of.<br /><br />Yes.. I think so.. Those forum did not pointed to what they were calling “natural” Sun light is always the point of comparison regarding to natural light... It is more regarded to mood and light quality for portraits provided by windows. The articles mentioned that square boxes provided more like a kind of window light effect .. and octo boxes provided more like outdoors lighting effect because how the octo make the like to fall around to subject.. <br /><br />The discussions I have read are about ROUND Vs square/rectangular softboxes only.. so no other kind of "modified situation you like the 'natural' look of.. or some other modified light source altogether"<br /><br />Again.. I appreciate your time.. and your thoughts...<br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>THank you all for your inputs...<br /><br />david, Peter: Sorry for missing the "comparison part” of the equation... I am intending to upgrade from 5D mark II... <br /><br />JDM, I will carefully read the article.. <br /><br />Keith / MArcus, I was wondering about the direct raw/jpeg files before processing. THank your technical tips... <br /><br />Still too much to learn... <br /><br />I do appreciate your times and inputs..</p>

<p>Good evening and thank you in advance for you inputs...<br /><br />I am considering upgrade to a 5D Mark III and I was wondering if anybody can provide some experience about the increased ISO and how does noise do at 25600 and above... <br /><br />thank you again for your time</p>

<p>Thank you all for your valuable responses...<br /><br />Allow me please to straight something out... When I said light beam I used “---“ signs to let people know that I was expressing a metaphor for the light produced for the diffuser... It seems that my words were taken literal for some people even though I used the quote marks to communicate the idea... <br /><br />Any way... once made the point clear.. thank you ALL for your inputs... It seems to be some divided ideas (when to use round or rectangular boxes) and other common grounded ideas about the catch lights produced... <br /><br />I do really appreciate your times and knowledge..</p>