brad_n

<p>Javier,<br>

I,m on the right coast and the same species of birds can look quite different on the left coast. Keeping that in mind....<br>

the white egret is a Snowy Egret,<br>

the small bown bird is probably a sandpiper,<br>

the sandpiper is probably a Solitary Sandpiper,<br>

You got the Green Heron right,<br>

the gulls with the red spot on their beak are Herring Gulls,<br>

the last one, is an American Oyster Catcher (neat bird)</p>

<p>Javier,<br>

I,m on the right coast and the same species of birds can look quite different on the left coast. Keeping that in mind....<br>

the white egret is a Snowy Egret,<br>

the small bown bird is probably a sandpiper,<br>

the sandpiper is probably a Solitary Sandpiper,<br>

You got the Green Heron right,<br>

the gulls with the red spot on their beak are Herring Gulls,<br>

the last one, is an American Oyster Catcher (neat bird)</p>

<p>I have a lot of $$ invested in Pentax and not much to start over again.<br>

Full-frame is not appropriate for my kind of shooting. That only drives me into outrageously priced lenses and the end result will be that even less of the frame is used. FF is for weddings and portraits.<br>

If I could find the Tamron 1.4 I would buy it in a second. I've been watching but can't find one.</p>

<p>Javier,<br>

Thanks for the long list of lenses, most of which I didn't know about.<br>

Does the Tamy1.5 work AF with the DA*300? I am under the inpression that none of the existing TCs work with teh DA* lenses because of the SDM. Pheonix and Kenko certainly did not work AF in the store.</p>

<p>I love my K20D. The problem is a lack of any long lenses along with my addiction to bird photos is eating away at me. I almost exclusively use the DA*300 for birds. It is awesome. My goal is to shot art quality photos that can print at 11x14, hopefully 16x20, and for me anything less is just not worthy for putting up for sale. I also have a sigma 50-500 that just always disappoints ever since I got the DA*300. I also have a Pheonix 2x that, although it tested better that the Kenko for me, loses AF and alot of picture quality. Plus a K10D for backup and a half dozen other Pentax lenses.<br>

Where is the teleconverter that Pentax promised for last summer? That alone could improve my patience and overall satisfaction.<br>

If I change to a Canon, probably the 50D, I'lll get a huge choice of lenses, including some that I can't really afford. The local store is pushing me towards a Sigma 150-300 2.8 stablized which is not available in a Pentax mount.<br>

Finally, did you all know that Pentax released all their reps and stores only have a webpage to interface to??<br>

I am not feeling very satisfied or confident in Pentax. What's the big deal about an AF teleconverter? Where's this years road map? Where's a something to 400 DA* zoom?</p>

 

<p>An aquaintence recently changed from the Sidekick to the CB Gimbal for his Canon 50D w 120(?)-300 2.8 and teleconverters he swears the CB was worth every penny.</p>

<p>I am looking to upgrade to a gimbal head for shooting birds. I've seen the CB Gimbal and it looks to be all that you could ask for in construction quality and precision $580. Arthur Morris flouts the Mongoose 3.5 at 500. I am currently using a Pentax k20D, DA*300, Sigma 50-500, but naturally I have dreams of larger lenses.<br>

Does anyone have experience with these two heads? Opinions and advice?</p>

I just faced the same problem. Everyone swears by Alien Bees but I can't afford them. I found a 3 light strobe set-up from RSM (or RMS?) for $500 that worked fine for a recent photo concession at a Halloween Party. It includes three light stands, 3 180W strobes with built-in strobe triggers, 3 umbrellas, a pait of RF remote transmitter/receiver, and three sync cords and a nifty carrying bag. If I start doing more work of this nature I plan to gradually upgrade the strobes to Alien Bees.

 

This light weight portable gear.

 

I also got a very nice 12ft backdrop support for $189, I think the brand is "pole vault". Also, look into muslin backdrops. They are much more portable and easier to work with. My 10x12 costs $89 vs $49 for a 9x12 paper backdrop.<br/><br/>

 

<img src="http://smile-123.smugmug.com/photos/409009135_pb4zk-L-1.jpg"><br/><br/>

<img src="http://smile-123.smugmug.com/photos/409009469_MRhKg-L-1.jpg"><br/><br/>

<img src="http://smile-123.smugmug.com/photos/409012581_PfNAf-L-1.jpg"><br/><br/>

<img src="http://smile-123.smugmug.com/photos/409013092_jQ86E-L-1.jpg"><br/><br/>

Alright! Most of you DID get it. I guess momma was giving dancing lessons that day.

 

Eagle. I found a pair of eagles about 6 miles from my house. I've probably put in 20 hours over the last two weeks and that is by far the best pic I've got. They are so dark underneath that you tend to get just black and noise.

 

But, nobody noticed the last pic of my trained snowy egret. We worked and worked to get that wing dip right!

I've been gone too long. Spending my extra time trying to get good bald eagle captures (tough!).

 

Maybe its only me. This one doesn't do it for my wife, but then, she doesn't have a sense of humor. Snow goose

and young ones.

 

<img src="http://www.smile-123.com/photos/411952077_9eJq7-XL.jpg" /><br/><br/>

 

A couple other recent captures. All with K20D and Da* 300.<br/><br/>

<img src="http://www.smile-123.com/photos/411953247_5pn7W-XL.jpg" /><br/><br/>

<img src="http://www.smile-123.com/photos/411953508_av6Fm-XL.jpg" /><br/><br/>

<img src="http://www.smile-123.com/photos/411951828_TrQ7n-XL.jpg" /><br/><br/>

<img src="http://www.smile-123.com/photos/411954891_baahh-XL.jpg" /><br/><br/>

<img src="http://www.smile-123.com/photos/411950393_b6267-XL.jpg" /><br/><br/>

I bought into a "system" that can be adapted to a lot of situations and equipment. I don't hike much (I should but I don't). I do photograph boats from another boat and need a front carrying system that is fast to use, takes the weight off my sholders, and prevents my unbagged camera from flopping around. I use the X-Harness 2 or 3 times a week. I also have an accessory belt and a variety of gear bags, lens bags, and a water bottle that I configure as required.

 

This stuff is extremely well constructed, flexible to the nth degree and fairly priced. Rugged. Check them out you won't be disappointed.

 

<a href="http://www.kgear.com/">Kinesis Photo Gear"</a>

 

 

<img src="http://www.kgear.com/images/H717C580big.jpg"/>

You get what you pay for. This is one of the few times that my local dealer has led me astray. He sold me a

Giottos 6x carbon fiber tripod and a Vanguard ball head for bird shooting. Total: $535. That's a lot less than the

equipment sold at Arthur Morris' site <a href="www.birdsasart.com">Birds As Art</a>.

 

The head is a total POS. The tripod seems pretty good but in 30knot winds it actually vibrates: admittedly extreme

conditions.

 

He is recommending that I upgrade my head to a <a href="http://www.birdsasart.com/mongoose.htm#4th%

20Generation%20Design%20Lens%20Plates%20for%20Canon%20Lenses"> Mongoose 3.5</a>. Problem is he

doesn't know anything about Pentax or the Sigma 50-500. There are lists of lens plate adapters there that are

specific to different Canon and Nikon lenses.

 

Does anyone have experience with the Mongoose that can advise me on lens plate adapters?

 

PS If your interested in bird photography, then Arthur Morris' site and work is a must. Get on his newsletter. You

will be thrilled with the weekly bird photos that he sends out. Great motivation!

1. I have a K20D as my main body and the K10D as a back-up. I NEVER use the K10D and will NEVER choose to. If I had a really good reason I'd rather bite the bullet and buy a second K20. (I'm ging to put the K10 plus 18-55 kit lens up for sale)

 

2. Available Light: Stop thinking about zooms. Start with a 1.4 or 1.8 50mm. Test to see what shots you cannot make with it and buy another fixed lens it necessary.

 

3. Aren't you going to need a flash for the reception? Flawed as it is, I recommend the 540FGZ. I also recommend a Gary Fong lightsphere for much more pleasant and softer face shots.

 

4. Weddings. I have resisted doing them because they are just too stressfull and I am not well qualified. IF I were to do one it would be for a friend or something like you. Find one to practice on: Go to craigs list and search for "student photographer" which definitely means no $$. For no $$ they get what they get and you will not lose any sleep over it.

 

5. Friends, family, and neighbors. That's such a complicated and dangerous area. Be careful about doing work for people you love, know well, or have to see all the time. I built a deck for my neighbor who wanted to save some money. I charged materials plus half my usual rate. Half way through the job I took half of what he owed me and walked off. Its been a few years. He never got his deck finished but we are talking.

Thanks everyone. I was not going for something natural rather a bit over the top. I wanted the colors to be a little beyond belief with a sky that was just bit too perfect. The window was a problem because it was filled with ordinary retail clutter so I decided to stretch the limits of belief again while still trying to keep on foot anchored in reality. So I took what was there, added some motion blur, played with the curves and probably saturation. Somewhere in there I did a illumination copy, paste, screen and adjust to taste.

 

BTW The grass isn't really grass. Its that stuff that grows on barrier islands and, you're right, it has about the same color as broccolli or something. Maybe I'll tweak that too.

Not even a comment? Not even and LOL?

I almost always use spot focus since I am shooting birds and surrounding stuff always gets in teh way. I shot a few dozen photos last weekend and all but a couple were back focused. I saw something here about lens calibration with the K20D and thought that I might try that first. Have to go find it and read.

My Sigma 50-500 deperately need a CLA. It back focuses. Anyone ever done this? What was your experience?

The last time I attempted something of this nature I was shooting B&W film. I was drawn to the 50's arte deco

colors. Lots of pp. The colors were a bit faded so I pumped up the saturation, removed the background, gave it a

more dramatic blue sky, and some window treatment. I can't tell if its any good or if I just fell in love with it.

<br/><br/>

<img src="http://smile-123.smugmug.com/photos/374079953_ZkGAV-L.jpg" />

I chased this family of Green Herons around all summer. Here's the second brood of the summer. I decided against

using this first pic as a test of everyone's bird ID IQ - too tough. PS These are unfortunately 1Mpix crops from a

14Mpix image. Hence the poor quality. All taken with a K20D, DA*300, flash and better beamer, all ISO 800.

 

<br/>

<img src="http://smile-123.smugmug.com/photos/370916144_P8osx-L-2.jpg"/><br/>

<p text=center; font=bold>Green Heron Hatchling, 2-3 weeks old.</p><br/><br/>

<img src="http://smile-123.smugmug.com/photos/370916222_kUZAm-L-2.jpg"/><br/><br/>

 

<br/>

<img src="http://smile-123.smugmug.com/photos/370916623_cA5bc-L-2.jpg"/><br/>

<p text=center; font=bold>Green Heron Brood, Dinner Time, 3-4 weeks old.<br/>This is the funniest bird pic I've ever

taken.</p><br/><br/>

Point of interest? It did used to be called a Yellow Bellied Sapsucker. Some years ago it was determined that it was a varient of the Flicker and is now called a Northern Flicker.

Michael, you are right on. Its a problem with my Sigma 50-500 that I didn't understand when I took this shot but now I know about it all too well. Its very frustrating. I need to try and fix it either eith the undocumented calibration proceedure in the K20D or by having a CLA.

Thanks everyone. I'll be happy when most of my shots turn out so good!

 

FYI I put this up got critique by 2 prof. bird photographers and they aggreed.

1. clone out highlight above the birds head.

2. fix the blown out pixels in the branch.

3. crop out some of the area above the bird.

 

I have to agree with all of those. I'll post an update next week when its done.

<img src="http://smile-123.smugmug.com/photos/370917684_ygmDS-L-2.jpg" />

I shot this Black-Crowned Night Heron in June and haven't got a photo of it since then: they are nocturnal. Last

weekend I was on the same pond trying to take some egret photos but it got too dark, even with my flash a better

beamer. I walked back to the boat, broke down my camera, and my neighbor told me to "look behind me". There it

was, sitting on a piling about 15 feet from me. I reassembled my camera and it was still there. Got off a half dozen

shots but my flash didn't fire. That 540 is very sensitive to placement in the hot shoe!<br/><br/>

 

She said that it had literally followed me back from the pond jumping from limb to limb and then piling to piling. My

guess is that it was curious about the the flash. OMG I wish I got that shot! <br/><br/>

 

This is cropped down to 2Mpix. K20D, DA* 300, flash witrh Better Beamer, Iso 800, 1/250, f5.6 at about 60

feet.<br/><br/>

 

<img src="http://smile-123.smugmug.com/photos/370920478_KCYH5-L-1.jpg" /><br/><br/>

I think this is the best bird photo that I have ever taken and would like your opinions. Everthing came out textbook.

Backlit but with proper flash fill. Excellent DOF. K20D with DA*300, FGZ540 with Better beamer at about 50-60

feet. 1//250, f4.5, ISO 800, 50% crop. Some minor PP.

 

<img src="http://smile-123.smugmug.com/photos/370917684_ygmDS-L-1.jpg" /> <br/><br/>

<b>Young Green Heron</b>