harold_motte

There is a HEX Editor software that is supposed to be able to tell you the shutter count

on the 40D.

I forget the instructions but if you find it by searching it will tell you how

to convert the numbers to get the shutter count.

You will have to Google hex editor for getting shutter counts

and you might can find it.

It found out about it on one of the forums and downloaded it and it seems correct

within 20-30 clicks. That could be due to legitimate reasons.

Seems as though you have already tested the camera without the grip and it is working OK.

Since you cannot get a genuine Canon grip - all the more important to take a back up

camera body.

Also, forgot to mention...If you are going out of the country ?

Check about customs and declarations and fill out a separate sheet for each

camera and for each lens - If you have to.

Test the camera without the grip to see if all functions work without a grip.

If so, get a genuine Canon grip - not a 3rd party one if you have the time before leaving.

Take a back up camera.

I have two lenses and want to know which of the two you would keep if you had to sell one of them.

I shoot with a Canon 7D.

The first lens is a Canon 17-40mm L

The second is a Canon 24-105mm L

Considering I have these other two lenses (I am keeping): a Canon 50mm 1.4 usm and a Canon 70-200mm 2.8 L is/usm.

Would you keep the 17-40mm or the 24-105.

Thanks

Harold

Using AI servo and all 9 af points, continuous drive. Holding the shutter button down half way for focusing

while tracking the plane, bird, etc... or use the back button. press the shutter all the way down when

wanting to take the photo.

See page 77 of the manual.

<p>Thanks for the response and nice pics. Very helpful.<br>

I am now going October 18th. Can't go any sooner. Hope that<br>

I can still get some behvior type shots and one or two with no collars or tags.<br>

Then, after that day on up to DuPont Forest, Townsend TN area including Cades Cove.<br>

Thanks again for your resonses.</p>

Loren,

Thanks for that post. Helpful. Looks like I will not need a real long lens for it.

Did you stay overnight in the area ?

If so, can you recommend ?

Thanks again,

Harold Motte

Scott,

Thanks for that response. Both photos are as shot. No post processing at all.

I was pleasantly surprised at how both came out. I thought the Canon with the 2x would have been

worse than it came out. The Tokina was always "not bad" at all.

I had the both lenses but purchased the Canon 2x out of curisity and not wanting to spend the

large cash for the Canon 300mm F4.

I am thinking that for what I do (non pro) these are acceptable.

The Tokina I purchased used from KEH in EX condition for $300 plus shipping.

Harold

Thanks for both of your response. I like your photos.

Yes I think I won't throw the Tokina out either and keep the lens as a back up to the Canon.

I too was a little surprised at how good the pics were with the 2x tc on it but was hoping for the best

since the Canon is the 2.8 is/usm version.

I was thinking of getting the Canon 300mm F4 is/usm but I am not a professional or sell to

clients, etc.. I am retired.

I do like having the zoom for it's versatility.

Thanks again for your input.

I am soon going up to Cataloochee Valley as part of a photo trip and would like any input about:

Where in the valley are the elk likely to be ?

How far away the elk are from the viewing location (road or Ranger's Station, other).

What length lens ? etc...

Where to stay in that area and how far is that from the Valley ?

How early can I drive in and

How late can I stay and still get out ?

Any additonal comments about your experience of going there.

Thanks,

Harold

<p>Thanks for your input.<br>

I already have both of these lenses. Just got around to any comparisons. I use most of my photos for my own hobby and interest and seldom print above 8x10.<br>

I did some editing of the tokina photo in photoshop and then printed both of the photos out and that limited the differences considerably.<br>

I appreciated your taking time to look them over because my eyes aren't that great and I am color blind.</p>

<p>ANYONE ELSE WHISH TO COMMENT<br>

Thanks,</p>

Just your general thoughts about the 2 photos. How much difference is there in the two: iq, color, etc....?

I am hoping to feel that the Tokina is good enough producing an acceptable or good image compared

to the Canon one and not just my thinking if it is or not.

No intention of publishing them, just for myself and some sharing, printing up to 8x10.

Keeping in mind that the Canon 70-200mm F/2.8 L is/usm is with a 2x tc making it 140-400mm and very

large and heavy and cost $1500 to $1800 with the 2x on it. The Tokina was bought for $300 plus tax.

Then Tokina is 80-400 without any teleconverter and is smaller and lighter.

Thanks,

The photos are at: http://www.photo.net/photodb/member-photos?user_id=3840219

Thanks,

Harold

I just shot two photos: The first one with a tokina 80-400mm at-x lens with no teleconverter and the other

photo with a Canon 70-200mm lens with a 2x teleconverter on it to make it 400mm. The Canon lens is

a 2.8 L is/usm lens. The Tokina is a 4.5-5.6 80-400mm lens.

Both photos are shot on a Canon 7d at 400mm, F8, 125th second, iso at 100 on a tripod.

Nothing has been done to either photo. Showing as shot.

How and/or where do I post them both for comparison comments ?

Thanks

I have the exact same set up as you have.

I use center point with expansion and set the af towards the slow end, not the fast end.

I pan the bird(s) and take only 3-5 shots.

I do not use a tripod or monopod for this, especially on a boat.

I have had no trouble with a good percent of "keepers".

I have never had to use a higher shutter speed than 1/1000.

<p>Thanks for all of the responses.<br>

As a follow up I shot some test shots using your inputs. The outdoor light was good.<br>

I shot in manual mode, handheld at 500th of a second using my 7d with Canon 70-200mm F/2.8 L is/usm lens<br>

with the Canon 2x TC I upped the iso to 400 and stopped down 1 stop and the photos were very acceptable<br>

up to F8 with no pp necessary. At F11 I had to up the ISO to 800 but still acceptable noise and IQ.<br>

The AF worked fine in all F stops and was still fast. The IS also worked at all F stops.<br>

I purchased this 2x for probably infrequent use for wildlife and/or reach. I do not know if it wil<br>

be usable for birds in flight though.<br>

I also have the 1.4x TC to use with the 7d and 70-200mm f/2.8 lens so hopefully I can crop enough to be<br>

usablefor that. I will see before too long.<br>

Thanks again for your help.</p>

<p>Hi, thanks. \<br>

I meant to add that I am using a Canon 70-200mm F/2.8 L is/usm lens.<br>

Harold</p>

I am using a Canon 7d.

Questions about using teleconverters (canon).

Do I set the aperture on the camera as usual and just remember the conversion. Or does the camera show the

aperture in the display that the tc would cause ?

Does the camera adjust everything own its own: i.e... metering, iso, etc... Or do I compenstate somehow ?

What can I do (if anything) to compensate for the loss of the 1 stop or 2 stops and try to get the sharpest photos ?

Examples: Up the ISO, Reduce shutter speed, meter differently, exposure compensation ?

Thanks

<p>I do not know where you live now, but you may want to get information about going through customs<br>

if you are going to have to because one person wrote recently that he went somewhere and they only<br>

allowed one body and one lens and he had to go through a lot of hassle and get the Embassy person<br>

involved in order to carry in all the gear he had taken.<br>

If you have the 5d mrk I at 12mp and you will not leave the 85mm behind then I would take either the <br>

20mm or the 40mm (not both) and the 85mm - that is all - leave the 135mm at home.<br>

I would take a Point and Shoot camera for back up.<br>

Best of luck.</p>

I have looked at a 300mm manual focus lens for my Konica Autoreflex TC camera and using a 2x teleconverter

to get to 600mm BUT the 2x tc would make this an F11 lens according to the man who is selling them.

Is this (F/11) max aperture going to be a problem for wildlife ?

Wouldn't the light have to be very good ?

How about F11 in the evening or early morning ?

Would I have to use a slower shutter speed and if so would that be a problem for wildlife that may be moving

around ?

Your input / suggestions will be appreciated.

Harold

<p>I imagine you will get several various responses but I have been shooting w/Canon 7D for 2 years for<br>

Sports, Wildlife, Landscape, etc... The following lens collection has served all my needs so far.<br>

All Canon lenses: <br>

17-40mm L USM<br>

24-105mm L IS/USM<br>

50mm f/1.4 USM<br>

70-200mm f/2.8 L IS/USM<br>

100-400mm f/4-5.6 L IS/USM<br>

1.4x II Extender (for the 70-200mm f/2.8 when, if, needed)</p>

<p>I am worried about the 17-55 f/2.8 as this gym has such poor lighting.<br>

I have to shoot at f/2 on my Canon 50mm f/1.4 lens now and if I go higher I have too go way up<br>

on the ISO, etc...<br>

So, how is it wide open ?<br>

Harold</p>

Anyone have any experience using the Canon 35mm F/2 lens for basketball or volleyball

in a highschool gym withvery poor lighting and very small. My 50mm is almost too long from the baseline.

Is the focus fast enough ?

Is it sharp wide open ? since f/2 is about what it takes in there ?

I am using a Canon 7D body.

Other than I know it does not have the usm motor, I know nothing about this lens.

Thanks

Any experience with using a Canon 35mm f/2 for basketball / volleyball.

Using on a Canon 7D

HIgh school gym - very poor lighting and small ! (My 50mm is almost too long from the baseline)

Does it focus fast enough ?

Sharpness wide open ? (f/2 is about what it takes in there)

I know it does not have a usm motor but I am not familiar with this lens at all.

So anyone with experience your input is appreciated.

Thanks