nilantha
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Posts posted by nilantha
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<p>My V2s triggers work 99.9% of the time. Have try changing the batteries? Mine did not work with Canon EX series flashes.</p>
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<p>Is there any way you could try in a store before you buy it? I have been using Cactus V2s triggers without any problem. You can have a 580EX on hot shoe and V2s could be connected using PC port on your camera. The other option is to get a speedlight with a optical trigger build in, such as Sigma EF 500 super or Sunpak 5000AF.</p>
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<p>Hi Mark,<br>
Have you look in to Polaris SPD100? Use only one AA.<br>
It is pretty simple to use, no bells and can openers. It is a flash meter too (with triggring capability). LCD is not back lit though.</p>
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<p>Hi Rumelo,<br>
I had similar problem with my 10D last year. However, when I use vertical grip second shutter worked fine. After visiting repair shop they suggested to replace the shutter and that did not make any sense. I replaced the shutter switch and the procedure is out lined here:<br>
(Sticky shutter release - Canon 10D Replacement of the Shutter Release Switch)<br>
I do not know shutter count and my 10D is still working fine. Never needed new shutter. Ordered parts from Canon. That was my first soldering job and worked fine. Hope this helps. Good luck!</p>
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May be you have bad CF cards. Try to shoot without CF cards. When you use CF cards format them in the camera and try not to share untill this issue is resolved
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I would try what Jim Strutz suggested first, i.e. fire another flash from camera hot shoe at very low power and flash in manual mode (1/64 power may be), that way ETTL pre flash will not interfere. For this purpose you can use any speedlight with manual control (you may have to watch for operating voltage) such as Canon 540 EZ, Sunpak PZ 5000 and Nikon SB26/25 just to name few. Sigma EF 500 super DG (and non DG version) does not work with *bay radio triggers at least in my experience. Another way is to put a dark filmstrip over on camera flash.
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Following pictures were taken with 10D and Sigma 70-200 f2.8 HSM EX
http://www.photo.net/photo/8260478
http://www.photo.net/photo/8260477
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I have exactly the same lens and use it on EOS film (Elan II) and digital (10D) without any problems. When 1:1 close up adaptor attached auto focus works fine. However, you are close to subject and loose infinity focus. Auto focus hunts before locking in and not as fast as most of Canon USM lenses. When you shoot next time without trying to auto focus get close to subject and slowly move camera back and forth and see whether you can achieve focus.
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You may want to look at www.keh.com where you will find Nikon D40 or Canon 20D for good price. As suggested before kit lens is possibly the best to get started and can add 50mm 1.8 later. If possible you should try these models in a store to get a feeling for user interface/menu system.
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You may be better off with Manfrotto Compact Ball Head with RC2 Rapid Connect (Model 486RC2)
http://www.adorama.com/BG486RC2.html
Or may be the bigger model Manfrotto Midi Ball Head with RC2 Rapid Connect (Model 488RC2)
http://www.adorama.com/BG488RC2.html
I have 488RC2 and use it out doors and studio setting and never move my camera/lens after tightening the ball head.
Both models have 3/8" thread, secondary safty catch and no spirit level. The second model weighs about 1.5
pounds though.
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You may be better off with Manfrotto Compact Ball Head with RC2 Rapid Connect (Model 486RC2)
http://www.adorama.com/BG486RC2.html
Or may be the bigger model Manfrotto Midi Ball Head with RC2 Rapid Connect (Model 488RC2)
http://www.adorama.com/BG488RC2.html
I have 488RC2 and use it out doors and studio setting and never move my camera/lens after tightening the ball head. Both models have 3/8" thread, secondary safty catch and no spirit level. The second model weighs about 1.5 pounds though.
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Bob,
Nothing is wrong with your 10D. If you shoot in any mode other than creative mode you cannot select RAW. It is possible that you may have change the shooting mode and system defaulted to JPEG. See page 46 of 10D manual.
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My 10D had following symptoms:
1. main shutter does not work as smoothly as it used to
2. most of the time need to press shutter button very hard to take a picture
3. however, second shutter on vertical grip BG-ED3 works flawlessly
4. RS-80N3 works without any problems
Douglas A. Kerr described replacement of 20D shutter release switch.
http://doug.kerr.home.att.net/pumpkin/20D_Shutter_Release.pdf
Disassembly of 10D is very close to what he described and need to take following items out. Part numbers and
page numbers refer to Canon 10D parts catalog.
http://www.f20c.com/stuff/canon/partslist/EOS%2010D.PDF
Part needed from Canon USA: CH9-0233-000 shutter release switch for Canon Elan 7, 10D, and 20D.
(phone numbers 732-521-7230 or 866 481 2569)
Removal of back cover, page 1
1. CB2 – 0721 screw
2. CB2 – 0721 screw
3. CB2 – 0722 screw
4. CB2 – 0722 screw
5. CB2 – 0721 screw
6. CB2 – 0721 screw
Removal of digital terminal cover (CB2 – 0900), page 1
7. CB2 - 0719 screw
8. CB2 – 0720 screw
Removal of front cover assembly (CG2 – 0940), page 2
9 CB3 – 0882 rubber grip
10 XA4-9170-409 screw
11 XA4-9170-409 screw
12 CB2 - 0726 screw
13 CB2 - 0726 screw
14 XA1 – 7200 - 409 screw
15 XA1 – 7200 - 409 screw
16 CB2 - 0721 screw
Top cover assembly (CG2 – 0938), page 3
17 CB2 - 0723 screw
18 CB2- 0614 screw
19 CB3 – 0837 diopter adjustment knob
20 XA4 – 9170 - 457 screw
21 XA4 – 9170 - 457 screw
After items 17 through 21 are removed, disconnect ribbon cable CG2 – 0955 (page 10) to loosen up top cover. You
can see shutter release switch right under the shutter button on the top cover. It is the square shape button with four
connections this needs to be replaced as described by Douglas A. Kerr. After replacing the switch sticky shutter
syndrome is gone for good on my 10D. I would like to thank Douglas for publishing 20D shutter release switch
replacement.
Note: Please proceed at your own risk and if you are not comfortable with this procedure please consider sending
your camera to Canon Factory Service.
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I have Elan II, few of them! You may have defective frame counter. This model has an IR frame counting devise. If that is defective your film may be advancing but counter may not work. Please do the following, manually count and expose more than 36 frames, if the film automatically begin to rewind, you have a defective IR frame counter. When you reload the film please check the little IR window for and debris.
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You can use 430EX on camera and attach 430EZ via pc port. This would work. I have done similar work with Sigma EF 500 (on camera) and 540EZ (pc port), all in manual mode. Once you nail down the lighting ratio it works like a charm. Recently, I upgraded to wireless using cactus V2s and that was a different ball game.
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I use Sigma EF-500 DG ST with canon digital without any problems. This is my main on camera flash ether inside or outside. It does work well whether I use it in manual mode or aperture priority. Fill flash capability under high speed sync conditions is great. Sigma also has a built in optical slave. However, I do not have any experience with OM system.
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IMHO even if you clean up the fungus under the high pass filter it is more likely to grow again. As Mark U. indicated in an earlier post. You may be better off buying a used 20D (or for that matter 30D) from a reputable vender like www.keh.com. However, you may have to keep your gear in a humidity-controlled environment to avoid fungus growth.
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Sigma EF-500 DG Super has a built in optical slave and you can use it in that mode with manual control. In other words Sigma would be slave and SB-800 master. Disadvantage is that any other person using a flash close to Sigma would end up triggering it too. Works pretty well indoor and may not be very reliable out door.
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I have experimented with Cactus V2s and it worked flawlessly with 540EZ. I would think it would work with 420EZ too. The 540EZ was on always-active mode to avoid shutting down under power save mode. Although they claim that these units work with Sigma EF 500 super, my units did not respond at all. Another powerful unit that is compatible is Sunpak PZ5000, which also has a built in optical slave and can control manually. You can get them used at www.keh.com for a good price.
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There are few options. You can get any flash with optical slave capability. You can try Sunpak PZ5000, which has a built in optical slave (try used from www.keh.com). You could also try wireless methods. I recently got Cactus V2s from Gadget Infinity and it worked fine with 540EZ. They claim that V2s works with EX series. However, it did not work with Sigma EF 500 super DG version or the older non-DG model.
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There is one available from www.keh.com for $25 in ex condition.
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Do you mind sharing the eBay transmitter (model number) information? Sometime ago my attempts to do the same for 380EX and 540EZ failed. I am using optical slaves with manual control of speedlights at the moment. If you can trigger 540EZ remotely that would be great.
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Hi Patrick,
Definitely appreciate your gift to Sri Lanka. Your help goes long way. I would highly recommend getting one from Europe. Sinhalese manual is not that critical and would not be available even if you buy in Sri Lanka. However, I suggest a camera that uses AA batteries (preferably rechargeables) would be ideal. We were there during tsunami and also last year.
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This model has a built in optical slave and you can use it as a slave flash with another speedlight. You also can use built in flash on your camera to trigger Sigma. However, in that case you have to cover pop up flash with dark exposed slide film so that it would only trigger Sigma and will not contribute to real lighting. One more point, you need to run this under manual mode on rebel in order to prevent pre-flash triggering. If you plan to do any portrait work this set would be good starting point.
I have no idea whether Sigma will work if you mount it on the hot shoe even under manual setting.
EOS and Sunpak
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
<p>Hi Fred,<br>
I have used Sunpak Auto 544 with Canon 10D and Elan II without any problems. It works very well 10D via pc terminal. I know it is not exactly the same flash, hope this helps. </p>