richard_pannone

<p>Hi all, I've been shooting some indoor basketball lately and experimenting with different settings. I'm using a Canon 40 D with a 2.8 24-70mm lens with a 580 ex II flash unit. I've been shooting some of the photos in shutter priority and some in manual modes and experimenting with different ISO settings.</p>

<p>In TV mode the camera will not let me increase the shutter speed above 250 with my f stop at 2.8 and exposure at 0. When I switched over to manuel mode to try and achieve a higher shutter speed to stop the action, the camera will not let me increase my shutter speed above 250. Also, in manuel the camera pushes the exposure setting down to minus 2. </p>

<p>My first question is how can I achieve a higher shutter speed to stop the action more clearly if the camera wouldn't let me go above 250?</p>

<p>Why in manuel is the camera forcing the exposure setting down to minus two in a gym lighting environment where I need all the exposure I can get ? </p>

<p>If in manuel the exposure is going to be forced down to minus 2 and I can't increase the shutter speed above 250, aren't I better off shooting these shoots in TV where I was shooting shutter speed 250 with a exposure setting of 0 not minus 2.</p>

<p>Thanks Rich</p>

<p> </p>

Guys I'm using a Canon 40 D.

Thank you for the help. I figured it out.

 

Rich

I'm not finding the location where you choose to always use Photoshop and put the check in the box.

I have photoshop CS3 and the Canon DPP software installed. Can either of these two be used to achieve the same result? Which do you perfer? How do you open your RAW files with these?

I shot my first group of RAW photos. I came home put the CF card in the card reader and I can't access the photos.

Usually when I put the cf card in the reader, the windows wizard gives me several options for loading them into My

Pictures.

 

I have no idea what is going on with these RAW photos. It is only occurring with these RAW photos . I tried a cf card with

jpegs and there was no problem. With the RAW files a window opens for the E\ drive and within that window are two folders

one is DCIM and the other is MISC. I tried opening these folders and still couldn't access my photos.

When I used to open photos from folders in MY pictures they would open into photoshop. Some how I must have changed

something and now they don't do that anymore. Would anyone know how to set photoshop back as my default option for

opening photos?

 

Thanks Rich

Hello, When I'm editing in a 100 +photo folder from a sports event it takes alot of time moving from one photo to the next

once I open the folder in photoshop. I was hoping that there is a short cut or some keyboard shortcut I can use to save

time.

 

Let me be specific what I am refering to : I open folder 9 year old baseball which has 150 photos in it. I open jpeg 122 in

photoshop and make my modifications and then save it. NOW, I have to go to the open tab, open the folder again, either

scrool down with the slider bar or by using the arrows to get to jpeg 123 to begin the next modification. This process

becomes a pain and takes alot of time. Is there a way to avoid going back to the folder and using the vertical slide bar or

arrows, maybe theres a way to use a keyboard shortcut to advance from jpeg 122 to jpeg 123?

 

Thanks. I hope this was clear

 

Rich

William, I'm referring to a situation that may arise where you didn't get a release for a photo. The circumstances could be one of many such as a person who is not the subject of your photo but is visible in the background claims that you invaded their privacy when they see your photo come out in a publication or maybe for some reason you were not able to obtain a release because the person left before you could get to them etc.

 

Somewhere down the line in the future they came IOP.

 

How do you guys/gals protect yourself?

For you guys who have commercial insurance policies, do you have the issue of

invasion of privacy covered with some type of add on coverage to your general

policy ?

 

Also, who do you recoomend for commercial insurance?

 

Thanks

Thank You for the input fellows. I'm going to try some of these recommendations this week at two matches.

 

I dont' have any light setups yet but I will try shooting in manuel mode with a higher shutter speed tonight.

 

Rich

I took some wrestling photos last night in a middle school and many of them

came out blurry. Here is what is was using :

 

Canon Rebel XTi, 24-70mm 2.8 zoom lens, ISO 1600, white balance was flourecent

and set at shutter priority.

 

When I got there I moved around and took a couple test shots. I started off

hoping I could keep the shutter speed around 500 but the read out in my view

finder keep flashing until I reduced the setting all the way to 1/50.

 

Any of the shots I took where there was only a little movement going on came

out good. The shots I took where there was much movement going on came out

blurry. I understand that this was a result of the 1/50 shutter speed setting

but what were my alternatives?

 

If I increased the shutter speed setting which would then reduce the light

entering the camera and increased the exposure setting would this give me a

good result?

 

What do you recommend under these situations?

 

Thanks

Guys,

 

I'm taking it all in keep coming. I have one other question when i asked a friend of mine who is a photographer he said that the image stabalization will equate to a couple more f/stops.

 

I don't really understand this can someone expand on this ?

Hi Everyone,

 

I'm new to the site and I've been doing photography seriously for about a

year. I've been reading everything I can get my hands on and experimenting

alot. I have a Canon XTI which came with a 17-85mm, f4-5.6 lens. I have been

doing sports photography with my children and the local sports in town. I

established a Shutterfly account and started selling some of my action photos

to other parents. I plan on doing more and getting more involved in this

activity in the future.

 

Now, I realize that I need a bigger lens so I've been on the phone with Canon

discussing their zoom telephotos and reading posts on this site. I'm considing

either the 2.8 70-200 lens with Image stabalization or this same lens without

the IS. The difference is over $ 500. I have several questions ; while using

the non IS lens would a pod be needed all the time, does anyone hand hold the

non IS lens and get good results without leaning on something, Is

stabalization pumped up by manufacturer as part of their marketing to sell

these lens, I also red some posts that said non IS lens take sharper photos

what would you buy if you were making the choice.

 

This is a big purchase for me and I don't want to mess it up

 

Thank You all

Bear with me, I'm a beginer I'm in the growing stages

Rich