chip_chipowski

<p>Well, no offense Kent but I had to do some checking on my own. </p>

<p>This is from the 24PC-E manual: "Exposure will be incorrect when the lens is shifted and/or tilted."</p>

<p>Kent, perhaps I did not phrase my question well. You are saying you can accurately meter with the 24PC-E <em>while</em> the lens has tilt or shift adjustments?</p>

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<p>Older style lens that uses stop down metering. (I had the 28mm PC.) The new PC-E lenses have meter couplings--hence the "E".</p>

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<p>Kent, I'm not talking about stop down metering. I'm talking about metering before shifting. My understanding was that a lens shift will screw up the camera's meter, so you have to do it before shifting. Does the 24PCE somehow avoid this?</p>

<p>Oliver, I don't have experience with the 24PCE but I think most people call it a tripod lens assuming you are using the PC feature. I have used the 35mm PC and it is quite a process to compose and then meter and then shift and then expose. However, if you are just using it as a regular manual lens, I don't think there is any big impediment to handheld use.</p>

<p>The good news is there are so many 105mm copies out there. You should be able to find an excellent Ai or Ai-s copy for well under $200.</p>

<p>Ralph - you always post such nice gear photos! I have to ask about the lens hood on the 85 1.8G - very evocative of the Canon red ring....</p>

<p>One stop worth of sharpness? </p>

<p>Hey Jerry, sorry to say I was thinking of a different hood. If you have a non-VR 55-200 in need of a hood, then I could help you out :)</p>

<p>Pete, did you read the OP? :)</p>

<p>Jerry, I am going to check my junk drawer when I get home. I might actually still have an HB-28. I would think the HB-32 could vignette on the 24-85 (if you are using on FX). The 18-105 is 28mm equivalent FOV, so the hood may be a bit deeper. Also, check out KEH.com - I think they have an HB-28 in stock.</p>

<p>Wouter - that guy's opinions really resonate with me, but quantifying it is another story :) He just did a new post with more controlled testing (35s and 50s). There is a DPR thread on the new post with lots of robust criticism. Personally, I have looked through many Flickr images and I like what I see from the 35mm f/2. Maybe it is confirmation bias but I do see distinct looks between some older lenses and some modern ones. So we shall see if the 35mm agrees with me or not. Of course I would love to own a 35mm f/1.4 too :)</p>

<p>I like the Series E 75-150 as a good value, very sharp lens. Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 is great, and widely renowned. Also if you are a street shooter, I have heard good things about the Series E 100mm and the thing is seriously TINY. Or for longer the 135mm f/2.8 is supposed to be nice according to the blogger I linked above.</p>

<p>What camera are you using and what other lenses do you want? Medium telephoto, or longer?</p>

<p>Muhammad - "image quality" is a term full of variables and even a little subjective. So I think you will get better answers if you tell us your priorities in a "quality" lens (i.e. sharpness, vignette, CA, color, etc). To me, the first question is whether you want a 35mm or a 28mm. They are somewhat close in FL but different enough to notice. The 35mm f/2 is well regarded, though I do not have any experience. I am actually awaiting delivery on a 35mm f/2 AF-D lens. I was inspired to buy this lens due to this fellow: <a href="http://yannickkhong.com/blog/2016/2/23/the-problem-with-modern-optics">LINK</a></p>

<p>The more I looked at images from the 35mm f/2, the more I like the character. If you are not in any rush, I would be happy to post sample pics from the 35mm f/2 once I receive this lens in the next week.</p>

<p>Ah - Dieter makes a good point. The 28mm f/3.5 H was pre-Ai. OP's version may have been converted though.</p>

<p>murillo: you should post a photo of the lens if you need help determining whether it is non-Ai. You can take a look at the list of 28s on this helpful site: http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html#28</p>

<p>Click on the various versions, and there should be photos for most of them. By the way, I can't vouch for the H version, which has different optics than mine :)</p>

<p>murillo - I think you said you have a D600 so you can use the 28mm with auto-exposure. Simply go to your menu and find the entry for non-CPU lens data. Enter the focal length and maximum aperture. Now you have auto-exposure! If you are in "A" mode, you simply use the aperture ring to set aperture and the camera will automatically set a shutter speed. Unfortunately, you're still going to have to use manual focus. Good news: the manual focus rings on these Nikkors are a joy to use!</p>

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<p>Picking from Bjorn's (not so serious) best lens list certainly is one way of creating a collection - but it doesn't mean that the lenses acquired or kept because of it fit one's shooting style and habit.</p>

 

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<p>Yes, I suspect he would frown upon such a "tell me which ones are good" approach ;)</p>

<p>murillo: I have a 28mm f/3.5 and I just love it. Great character. I have the Type K version.</p>

<p>Also, you are not going to get a lot of money for the 55mm micro - it is a great lens and very handy. Keep that one too!</p>

<p>Also, the 50mm f/1.2 has a cult like following. I have never used it, but keep that one too!</p>

<p>You can tell from my advice: I have trouble letting go of lenses :)</p>

<p>Great shot, Shun! Is your first example from your D7200 or D750?</p>

<p>An hourglass icon?? That does not sound good, never heard of that on a Nikon body.</p>

<p>Thanks, appreciate your response :)</p>

<p>I have a basic question for you Mamiya M645 users. When I get my 120 film scanned, there appear to be at least 2-3 empty frames at the beginning of the roll. I got 14 frames on my last roll, by the way. I am wondering if I am pre-winding too much when I load the film?? After I get the film leader into the take-up spool (wrong term?), I wind the film by hand until the "start" line on the film lines up with the arrow on my 120 cartridge. Then, once I insert the cartridge, there is some additional winding to get the frame counter to #1. Any feedback as to whether I am wasting film?</p>

<p>Paul - that is a lot of hair for 3 months! On your third shot, are the blur circles from post-processing?</p>

<p>Tim - cool perspective!</p>

<p>Here is a FE shot of the newest family member.</p><div></div>

<p>Plamena, we need more information to give you a helpful answer. First, which Nikkor version are you talking about? There is a cheap G version, a more expensive ED version, and then a VR version. The latter is a great performer for the money. As for the Sigma 135-400, I have no experience. It goes to 400mm which is nice, but the quality may not be top notch. Figure out how long a lens you need as the first step. For birds, you might want to consider the new 200-500 if your budget is large enough.</p>

<p>Sorry to be a grump, but I agree with those who say this accident was not specific to the D750 or even Nikon in general. A good reminder to be careful with bracketing though :) </p>