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tom_bowling1664874721

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Everything posted by tom_bowling1664874721

  1. Copyright: John Milne Photography; Make: Leica Camera AG; Model: M9 Digital Camera; ExposureTime: 1/30 s; FNumber: f/2; ISOSpeedRatings: 160; ExposureProgram: Manual; ExposureBiasValue: 0/65536; MeteringMode: CenterWeightedAverage; Flash: Flash did not fire; Software: Capture One 9 Macintosh;
  2. <p>I can't resist a follow up comment about the Sigma 35 ART. The example I bought front focussed so much I took it back to the shop and had them adjust it on the dock. It's fine now and I just love the lens. But it is a little bit weird to sell lenses and an adjustment dock. All the other lenses I've put on my 810 focus correctly from the first time they are mounted. I wonder what's going on. All of which is not to be negative about the Sigma - I love what it does.</p>
  3. <p>I'm sure this question will seem daft to those of you who know the answer, so I beg indulgence. I'm on my 3rd digital SLR but am foxed by a facet of the d810. If I am in manual, as you would expect to be for studio flash lights, the camera's live view seems to follow the adjustment of shutter speed and f stop down to complete darkness, as if it were a live <strong>pre</strong>view. This makes it useless for setting up studio shots - I always use the viewfinder. Is this 'just the way it is' or is it the case that I have a setting wrong? Thanks for reading</p>
  4. <p>I've used the Nikon 50mm 1.4 G on both the D810 and the D750. To be frank, after a few thousand shots on each I wish I'd never bought it. Yes it seems to render colour well. But if I want to use it at 1.4 (for portraits?) there is rather ugly distortion and the way it goes out of focus is unattractive. If I take it down to say f4 what's the point in having it? Nikon 1.8 50mms are *so* nice and so inexpensive and seem to me to give much less distortion.<br> Re. the 35s - a Sigma 35mm Art is just beautiful for the way it goes out of focus, but of course you can't take portraits from too close or you give your subjects banana noses. No experience with the modern Nikon 35mm prime - I used to like the old ones!<br> Just to expand the discussion a little, the Nikon 85mm 1.8 G is amazing value for money if you haven't tried one. Good luck </p>
  5. <p>Thanks for your contributions, one and all. I feel I've learned a bit anyway. I'm afraid the problem was very simple. The batteries in the Godox X1 had enough power to receive a signal (so the warning light came on to show it was receiving a signal from the transmitter) but not enough to fire the shutter. Doh!<br> <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=4983522">C.P.M. van het Kaar</a> - that wasn't one I was aware of but it's a good warning for the future</p>
  6. Hi, I have a Godox x1 which should be able to fire the 810 shutter but won't. Wiring, channels, groups etc are all correct. Is there a software setting or menu setting in camera I need to choose to make remote shutter work? I don't mind buying a dedicated wireless shutter release, but obviously don't want to trip over the same problem. Does anyone use/recommend a wired release? The question is making me long for the days of my pneumatic shutter release. Thanks
  7. <p>Thanks for this response, Wouter. You're making sense to me! Of course, using the laptop for sessions is the way to go. It's not exactly how I intended to use the software but it's close enough – I do mainly use the laptop for tethered shooting. I do travel a lot in my work and wanted also to be able to use the laptop to do some editing during downtime. Of course sometimes you have to accept you can't have everything.</p> <p>I think this answer is so straightforward that people who had seen my question before you must have imagined I'd thought of it and dismissed it. Unfortunately I hadn't, so I'm grateful to you for drawing my attention to it.</p>
  8. <p>Hi<br> I posted this question on Capture one's own forum, but it is obviously so basic it didn't elicit any response there. If any passing expert on libraries/catalogues and sharing could point me to a resource where I could educate myself about this very specific question, I'd be grateful!</p> <p><<Probably to people really experienced in workflow and networking, this will look like a simple question, but it's baffling me. I have an iMac and a thunderbolt connected backup drive in an outdoor office. I use Capture one 9 on it. It's all connected to my house via ethernet where there is an ethernet wdbook. I have a macbook I use on the road and in my house. That's only ever connected by wifi. I use Capture one pro 9 on that too. I work on photographic files on both the iMac and the macbook. What I'd like to do is have them share files and catalogues, so I can work from either computer, and have back ups of the catalogues on the networked drives too. But I can't figure how. I don't expect anyone to hold my hand with it, but a pointer to some resource which would allow me to educate myself on it would be gratefully received!<br />Thanks in advance<br />>></p>
  9. <p>you could open it and put the 'unboxing' film on youtube. For some reason people love this. Or to be precise men do. </p>
  10. <p>Just found this thread. Wasn't it Tolstoy who said being asked to choose his best novel was like being asked to choose among his children? I went to the Pompidou show too last Easter and though I met many old friends (man leaping a puddle at the back of gare st Lazare, rue Mouffetard for example) some of my faves were missing - there are great pictures of women in the bals musettes which didn't make it, for example. I just thought it proved what a great photographer he was to speak to so many of us in so many ways.</p>
  11. tom_bowling1664874721

    Egg Box

    This is an absolute cracker, Allen. Love it.
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