dominik_lazarski

Well, it's been discontinued for quite a few years now.

Posted too early haha.

I let it scan a strip of 6 and it doesn't work but for some reason it doesn't stop scanning after first frame. So I guess cleaning did some good. I suppose I need to switch to using B&W film :(

I finally got around to downloading the manual and cleaning the adapter. It worked! Thanks so much for the advice.

 

I am surprised that Nikon sent it back saying it needed a new board but parts were no longer available.

Does anyone know of a 3rd party fixing Nikon scanners? Mine no longer scans strips of 6 frames when ICE is on. It'll do one by one, so I'm thinking something wrong with automatic advancing of the film? I sent it to Nikon for service but they said they no longer have parts.

<p>Did you ever figure out what else could be an issue? I've had the same PC for a long time, Win7 64 bit, VueScan driver and it used to scan fine. Insert strip of 6 and no issues. After not using it for a while I started shooting film again and now I can't scan a strip. It errors out first time it scans a frame but it works on retry so I have to go one by one. If I disable ICE, then it scans the strip just fine without any errors. Any ideas?</p>

<p>If it was that easy I'd just keep using stacked Cokins I have ;-)</p>

<p>If it was that easy I'd just keep using stacked Cokins I have ;-)</p>

<p>I was wondering if anyone has any experience using Formatt ND IR filters? I'm thinking about picking 8-stop ND but I'm afraid that it might not be good quality (too much color cast), since Hitech aren't that great. I want to spend as little time on correcting in Photoshop as possible.</p>

<p>Maybe if enough people complain to Kodak they will bring it back? Sort of like what happened to Fuji Pro 800Z?</p>

<p>Where are those lines on the film? In my experience, it's the lab. It happens to me too sometimes when I send it to A&I. I get film with a line or two on top and bottom of the frame across the whole roll (35mm).</p>

Z-Pro causes vignetting because it holds 3 filters in front of a lens. If you only use 1 filter at a time, you can take off additional "slots" or flip the holder over and you won't get vignetting. If you want to use multiple filters at once, like stacked ND or GND better get X-Pro holder.

Cokin Z pro holder would kind of work for you but you'd get some vigneting at the wide end. It's good for 20mm on a full frame. Cokin X pro would cover it all and it takes bigger filter size. Look on cokin.com to see what filter size they take. I have Z but don't remember the dimension of the filters

That would depend on size of the filter holder unless you're talking about holding the filter yourself in front of the lens?

My camera been acting up where it shows battery fully charged, I'll start taking pictures and all of a sudden I

got a dead battery. After charging it I checked the voltage output and it's ~13.6V! I can't find a new NP-E2

online. Can I use NP-E3 and just swap the end cap? They're both 12V but Canon says E3 has higher capacity, does

that mean it might provide more current and damage the camera?

I don't use focus limiter. Because I do close-ups I pre-focus and then let the camera keep track of focus from there. It also drained 2cr5 battery rather quickly (5 films, maybe) so I don't think it's the cell. I guess I should send the camera and the lens to Canon and see what they find?

How long should the battery last when using 180 f/3.5L lens with AI servo? I can shoot with my other lenses all

day and battery meter always shows fully charged but when I use the macro lens AI servo it completely drains the

battery under 40 or so pictures taken. It only takes about 30 minutes to have a battery recharged. It's confusing

me...

 

-Dom

Ok, now I see the similarity. I'm used to taking photos with a digital camera so that's why I thought it was noise. I guess my scanner isn't broken!

 

Roger,

Thanks for the tip. I'll try shooting my next roll +1 overexposed and see what I get. I ran the same negative through the scanner again but I adjusted master analog gain to +1 and did some tweaks in post processing and it already looks much better.

 

Thanks everyone!

I don't think I'm confusing grain with noise. I see tons of green and purple pixels through out the images and when using GEM it leaves ugly artifacts. Even on web sized images I get an ugly color cast, usually most obvious on the skin.

 

Les Sarile, your images appear to have less noise then mine.

Ok, how much noise should I be getting when scanning negatives? Here's what I

get from Fuji Pro 160 at 16x multi sampling. I think the amount of noise is

ridiculous but maybe I'm expecting too much. If any one has samples before post

processing, please post them so I can compare.

 

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1221/1131029409_5d69d7cdcb_o.jpg

 

Thanks!