falcon7

I may be dense, but regardless of where I look for information regarding ps elements 2022, I can't find information on how many computers you can installt the software after purchasing it. It seems that the default purchase of $69.99 is good for one computer (unless you need to re-install it.) Suppose I want to have a copy on each of three computers? What do I do and how do I purchase it? This isn't for institutional use or for a group. I just want copies for a laptop and two desktop computers. Thanks.

Waiting for a Consumer Reports comparison on this matter.

The last PS Elements version I purchased was PS Elements 15; however, I have never used it. The reason: shortly after I purchased it I learned a new version was in the works. Now we're up to PS Elements 2121. Frankly, I am tired of comparing, deciding whether to upgrade, reviewing 'new' features, regardless if there is a new 'tool' or an improved organizer. My feeling is that I could simply read information about the new upgrades and do nothing else: no shooting, no equipment changes, in short, no photography. It seems to me Adobe is simply trying to attain a level of software in which every photograph is either 'perfect' according to some preconceived idea of what the perfect shot should be OR creating so many 'innovations' like enhanced slide show, actions, techniques, etc., that the photographer will eventually--through overload--toss aside any of the original purposes or objectives one has had for photographing itself. Is the answer jettisoning the whole elements framework (I suspect photoshop is being marketed in the same way -- i.e., new, improved model you must upgrade to. The other option is to avoid as much 'digital darkroom' as possible and work on photography itself like lighting, subject matter, environment, etc. Any suggestions.

Great advice. I'll look into d750. Might be too expensive for me, though.

I only have Nikon equipment, so I am going to stick with Nikon--I am looking for a camera/lens combo I can use in natural light indoor settings, primarily for portraits/boudoir. Neither my d5300 or d7100 seem up for the job. So I am considering a Nikon D7200 body with a medium length lens (85 - 105) either fixed or zoom with a 1.8 aperture (either 1.8 fixed aperture or 1.8 aperture as fastest setting). I am planning to buy used equipment. I am on a budget. Will this camera/lens combo work for my purposes, and if so, any recommended lenses? Thanks

Thank you all for the various perspectives and advice. It's going to take me a while to digest all of it.

When I go trail bicycling, I sometimes take a small Nikon DSLR with one 18-200 lens. I am trying to find an optimal way to secure the camera to my body as I ride. I travel from 10 to 20 mph and stop when I find an interesting subject. The issues that arise are: a) finding a strap/sling bag combination that I could carry on my back, b) which would be fairly easy to remove, but c) snug enough so that the camera won't bob against my back. In addition, d) I don't want it to wrap around my shoulder or underarms so it makes it difficult to maneuver while biking because e) sometimes I have to make sharp turns or ride over wooden bridges, or jump over the occasional natural speed bump. It's impossible to eyeball the right rig by seeing images or reading descriptions on the internet.. Any suggestions. The easiest solutions I could think of is a small knapsack or forget about the dslr and just carry a smart phone with a good built-in camera, but give up a lot of features.

Thoughtful, astute, and practical: no wonder I hadn't thought of that.

I know the principles of shooting nude body scapes, but I am looking for information about shooting black models (very dark) using body scape lighting techniques. Intuitively, I am thinking about using a gold reflector for highlights. This is something I can't leisurely experiment with owing to the hourly rate of the models I've selected.BTW, I will be using studio strobes. Thanks.

I have an early model wacom bamboo fun tablet/stylus--I think its cte350. New driver download doesn't work with windows 10. Wacom website administrator said they are no longer supporting the model--and it's Microsoft's job to find a solution. Anyway, I've given up I'm looking into the newer intuos (non "PRO" models). Now wacom had differentiated its series by function. Don't know if that really matters. But what would be a satisfactory wacom intuos tablet/stylus model for PS/PS elements (not the PRO versions since they are a few hundred dollars). Also, is there a tablet size" monitor size ratio to consider. For example, I use a 27 inch monitor would a 'small' tablet be difficult to use given that pen requires especially fine motor hand movements--I have nerve damage in my hand.

<p>Going with the gold. Interestingly enough, I found ONLY gold plated adapters for sale on the major electronics online stores for HDMI and DVI. The only tin connectors were for the older VGA. Yes, the price was only a few dollars more for the comparable gold. I'd imagine there must be some advantage to the gold plated variety if the brand name and generics have abandoned the tin variety.</p>

<p>I purchased a U2414h dell monitor, which has input ports for HDMI while my older HP computer has two DVI ports for output. I have an old dvi to dvi cable connector, so should I get a female dvi adapter to Hdmi adapter to plug into the monitor , or buy a new adapter cable with direct dvi male to hdmi to plug into monitor? Will the 'gold-plated' adapter/connectors make a difference in image quality?</p>

<p>I've been using a monitor manufactured in 2007 for my photo editing, and am thinking of getting a new monitor (man. 12/15). I compared specs on a site that has hundreds of monitors and you can select two and get a side by side comparison. I left out a lot of the info that I didn't think was important. The<strong> bold</strong> info is the old monitor; regular type is the new monitor. If there's --- a line, it means one model didn't have the info. I understand that my monitor is 9 years old now, and I've been using it steadily for 7 years. But I can't judge if the image has changed during the time. I left out brand & model #.<br> Another interesting thing would be to learn if there's really been much of a change in image/color quality. Both monitors are in the same price range, so I understand that neither may be "high end."<br> Is there anything here that stands out as making one better than the other for photo editing. </p> <p>Panel Technology: <strong>TN</strong> IPS<br> Screen Size:<strong> 24,0 Zoll (inch)</strong> 23,8 Zoll (inch)<br> Pixel Pitch:<strong> 0,270 mm</strong> 0,274 mm<br> Response Time (g-2-g): <strong>2 ms</strong> 6 ms<br> Native Resolution: <strong>1920 x 1200</strong> 1920 x 1080<br> Brightness: <strong>400 cd/qm</strong> 250 cd/qm<br> Contrast Ratio: <strong>--- </strong> 1000:1<br> Dynamic Contrast:<strong> 3000:1</strong> 8000000:1<br> Color depth: <strong>16,70 Mio.</strong> 16,70 Mio.<br> Net dimensions (WxHxD):<strong> 579 x 455-580 x 240 mm</strong> 556.6 x 423.1 x 179.9 mm<br> Input Video Signal:<strong> D-Sub (analog) DVI-D (digital) HDMI (digital)</strong> D-Sub (analog) HDMI (digital) <br> Color management: <strong>RGB sRGB</strong> RGB sRGB<br> Color Temperature Interpolation settings:<strong> no</strong> yes<br> VESA Mount: <strong>yes</strong> yes<br> TCO compliance:<strong> TCO03</strong> TCO 6.0<br> Power consumtion:<strong> 85 Watt</strong> 20 Watt</p>

<p>My question has more to do with uploading files to online print ordering services than self-printing. Is there a way to determine the amount of visible noise and sharpness that will show up in a print ordered from a service by the image that appears on one's monitor prior to uploading the file? <br> I am without a photo printer right now, so I can't create practice prints. Logically, I would think that you should view the image file at 100% on a photo editing program, and the amount and quality of the noise would be reproduced in the ordered print. If that's true, would it be best to view the monitor image at the same same dimensions the planned print will possess, e.g., if I'm going to order an 11 x 14 print, I should size the image on the screen so that it is at 100% view with the dimensions 11 x 14? Would settling on one dpi setting make the process easier, for example, 240 dpi?<br> Am I really off-track here? I understand that prints can vary greatly from lab to lab, so would it be best to try to emulate the results of a particular lab's output once I've settled on one to make the process have fewer variables? For the sake of finding a reasonable solution, I'm not going to concern myself with color calibration as part of the process.</p>

<p>I purchased the Mastering the Nikon D7100 book. It is extremely thorough. In fact, it's so thorough that I can't conceive of anyone being able to consider so many variables when taking photos.<br> I suppose the guide can be used as a reference, but I've been reading it cover to cover---I'm up to about page 250--and I haven't felt that I've learned much. For example, the section on metering is 46 pages long.<br> Additionally, after each explanatory sub-section, there's the author's recommendation, which usually states something to the effect "I always keep the Y feature on setting X" or "99 percent of the time I keep the Y feature on X." I suppose if it were written the other way around, most people would just take the initial advice, and skip the section.<br> I know that technical guides can be extremely long, but this is a user's guide. Any suggestions on how to "read" this guide?</p> <p> </p>

<p>HI,<br> I've reviewed the line-up of 5300 vs. 7100 features, but I'm interested in primarily one feature: the ability of the camera to find a proper focus point, particularly in low light. Included in that category is a strobe lighting situation where the ambient light prior to the strobe ignition is fairly poor. In working with models, I find my 'old d5100' lacking in the ability to 'decide' on a focus point in these circumstances, resulting in the camera sounding like car tires trying to grip a surface with a few inches of snow, and frustration for me as well as the model. I'm assuming the d5300 is better in this task than the 5100, but is the 7100 noticeably better than the 5300? I'm assuming a lot of variables go into this issue, but if I use 1/60 sec. /800 ISO/ f 3.5 as a goal for accurate and reliable available light focusing, maybe that would be helpful. My hands--because of years of computer use--aren't that good to handhold below 1/60th (and maybe even 1/125th), but I don't want to rely on a tripod. Thanks.</p>

<p>I'll have a Nikon with VR and a 18-200mm lens; however, I do plan to take evening images and indoor ones as well in villages.</p>

<p>I'm going to a remote area of Belize on Saturday, and I'll be with a local guide. He recommended that I <em>not</em> bring a tripod, since we'll be traveling along some difficult to negotiate roads, so the less equipment the better, and there wouldn't be many places to set up a tripod. I've been to Panama, and that to be the case. Would a monopod be helpful for photo shooting (as opposed to using it for a walking stick, etc.)?</p> <p>Thanks</p><div></div>

<p>Is it true that one should set a monitor to a monitor's resolution with the formula <strong>monitor's optimal horizontal pixel resolution/width of monitor screen</strong> <strong>in inches</strong>? Is so, can someone explain why this is important in terms of printing, doing post-processing work, or displaying jpeg files on the internet. I did read an explanation, but it was confusing to me. Either the explanation wasn't clear and succinct or I was very tired when I read it.</p> <p>Thanks</p>

<p>Thanks Rick,</p> <p>That was so easy!</p> <p>Alan</p>

<p>Hello Shun,</p> <p>I just read your review. I'm pretty much convinced now that I should purchase the lens. Thanks for your input.</p> <p>Alan</p>