morgan lee

Wow, imagine the time it will take to edit proofs for a 6-hour wedding with that monster!

It does.

It was a Pentax K10D picture taken in color, converted to TIF and then one mouse-click in Corel on the "Infrared Film..." menu it converted it into what I posted.

 

Actually, converted it to JPEG afterwards. Sorry it was still way too big.

 

Anyway, this is what the instruction manual has to say: "You can simulate the look created when you take a photo with black-and-white infrared film and an infrared pass lens filter on the camera. To enhance the effect, you can adjust settings for film grain and flare."

Agh! How embarassing. Yes I did mean "IR", Miserere Mei. Thank you.

Hi Elena,

Here's one option for "doing cool things" with your camera: Do them in post-processing with a software program.

 

That being said, I'm curious to see what other posters will have to say about infrared photography. I love the aesthetic of infrared and, so far, have done it with a program called Corel Paint Shop Pro Photo XI for my K10D. Though a real "dog" of a program as far as processing RAW files exclusively, it has a lot of cool "filters" for your photos once they are lowered to TIF 8 Bit. It also set me back only $60 at Target since the release of Paint Shop Pro X2. One of the neatest features is the "timeline" filter that will alter your photograph to look like it was taken with a daguerrotype (1839-1855)camera to a Kodak Box Camera (1900-1960) with things like Albument and Platinum in between.

 

More specific to your question, it also has a function that changes your picture into a UV simulation. The following is one that I had printed at EZ prints. I was thrilled with the result both on screen and on film paper.<div></div>

Under the first amendment in the United States Constitution, you can photograph anyone and, as long as it is sold exclusively as "art", you do not need a model release.

If you ever plan to use it for advertising, i.e. to sell a product or to make a political statement, then you do need a model release.

Even religious grounds has not been enough to overturn this basic right as an artist:

 

http://www.courts.state.ny.us/reporter/3dseries/2006/2006_50171.htm

Hin, my vote is the less "dead" space the better: Get as much of the blue lights and as little of the black background as possible. The ones that are currently closest to the way I would do it are numbers 1, 3, 4 and 8.

 

Another thing I would like to see is more in focus so I would make the aperture as long as possible. I like the ones with the foreground light in focus but I would want at least the second and third one clearer too.

 

As for metering, this, of course, is very similar to conditions for night photography. I set up on a tripod with the two-second shutter delay (or a remote if you have one) and go completely manual. Let the camera decide the first exposure, then "chimp" it down from there to where it looks best to you on the screen.

 

Just some thoughts.

 

Good luck,

 

~Morgan

Doh! That's me in the above post, not my wife. Didn't realize she was signed in and not me.

My grandparents were well to do. They were not in to the huge house (though the one they had was quite nice) or the fancy sports cars or anything else extravagant. One thing they did spend their money on was traveling around the world and the camera my grandfather took with him was the Pentax Spotmatic.

 

When I was 20 my grandfather gave to me the camera that had taken pictures of me since I could talk. It had brought back beautiful slides (until me, I don't think it ever held a roll of film)from every continent in the world except Australia. That camera always meant adventure to me. He gave it to me to maintain my portfolio (Production and Design for Theatre and later theme park and convention sets)and it served me well until it was stolen when I was 35.

 

I got by on a Sony digital point and shoot camera for four years and that is actually when I seriously became a hobbyist. I did not want to invest close to $1,000 in a 35 mm digital camera that seemed like it should have "Playskool" or "Fisher Price" stamped on its body instead of a major camera company. I did not want the "latest" camera, I wanted a camera that was "my" camera like the Spotmatic was. One I could see using for years and not outgrowing.

 

When I researched the K10D, I was infatuated. I liked everything they did and I, of course, liked that while others seemed to be trying to get bigger faster brighter results, Pentax specifically designed a sensor to simulate film. I was not disappointed. Pentax resubmitted its bid as the producer of the best 35mm camera in the world and they succeeded. The camera is so much fun to use it quickly became an addiction.

 

As for Hoya buying Pentax, I think I would be more worried as an executive for Nikon or Canon than I am as a Pentax owner.

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I prefer the Pentax PEF format. It takes up slightly less space and FastStone Image Viewer seems to handle it faster. Note that there is absolutely no difference in image quality between the two. The final answer is definitely shoot in RAW. The quality is far superior to JPEG. Especially for post-processing.

As for Pentax's longevity, I would not have the grave digger size up a pine box just yet, but that's a discussion for another thread. Congratulations on your new K10D. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I'm enjoying mine. I'm new to DSLR photography myself and this forum is the best I've seen for answering questions. These guys really know their stuff.

I shoot publicity portraits and dress rehearsals for my town's local theatre company and I highly recommend doing this. First, it's a lot of fun. Second, it's a trial by fire. Nothing teaches and makes you grow like having to produce results for publication. Finally, and no small consideration, it establishes your credibility as a "real" photographer. It's also a big ego boost to see "Photograph by Spencer Slayer" in the local paper.

As for the 'per-hour' deal, it typically (most likely) means that you produce the photos and hand them over to the editor who decides which one(s) they want to publish. You still should be able to use them for your portfolio, though.

Another thing to consider is, after the paper get's full use out of them, you may be able to sell photos from that shoot to proud parents on your own web site which could offset the cost of that drive in a hurry.

Personally, I wouldn't think of it as a paying gig so much as the best marketing possible at this stage as a photographer. Also most likely, liability on equipment is up to you.

Still, you are probably out shooting something with your free time, why not do this?

Image quality is determined by the lens much more than the camera body. I recommend you take your question over to the Nikon forum. They will know a lot that can help you there.

I would call it a very successful image. It's meant to be stern, it's meant to be frightening. The point (from Rudy G's perspective and intent)is not that the face in the photo is glaring at the viewer to scare you, it's glaring at all that stands between you and safety from terrorists, your pursuit of the American dream, etc. The details of age sharply depicted on his face are meant to illustrate hard-won experience. Your meant to be standing behind it, not looking into it. It's like a dragon's head on the prow of a viking ship or the lion standard on a medieval shield. The idea is, if you elect this man, he is fighting for you and he knows how to do it. BTW, I'm a tree-hugging first amendment-loving Democrat. I'm not speaking to personal beliefs, only the success of the intent of this photograph. It is captioned, "The Crusader" after all and the image is perfect.

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Why not offer these for those that don't want plastic and do want an aperture ring?--

No argument on the aperture ring. As for the plastic, I have read that the plastic elements now put in lenses are not so much a cost consideration as they actually have better durability over time than metal for the same reason plastic tooth fillings are considered better than metal: the material does not expand and contract with temperature variation nearly as much. The only reason they waited this long to produce lenses with so much plastic is because of customers like us who demanded the feel (weight) of a "well built" product in an expensive lens. Don't know how true it is and can't find the link offhand but it makes sense.

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There's no money in writing a novel. Still, Stephen King made out O.K. One of the lowest-paying niches of novel writing is young adult fiction. I don't think J.K. Rowling is losing any sleep over that statistic. Opera has been considered a "dead" art for about a hundred years. Pavarotti hardly died a pauper.

As for radio, Sirius and XM are doing O.K. I don't think Howard Stern is worried the utility companies will turn off his power because his bill is overdue. The music industry has changed a lot. Performers now make a large share of their income with a much older art; live performance.

As for photography, yes, the market is saturated but I really don't think it's going anywhere. It is evolving. Robert Clark's journey across America taught us just how much a great photographer can get out of a cell phone camera. It made me realize I can never complain about not having good enough gear again.

Finally, I think photographs capture a moment better than any video be it the personality expressed in a good portrait or the memory of a special day or place.

Looks like I'm kind of the exception in that I did buy from Broadway Photo and all's well that end's well for me. The transaction did make me a little nervous. I purchased a new K10D in June. They were offering the body and 18-55mm kit lens for $750. At the time that was by far the lowest price I could find. Next morning I get, "the call" trying to sell me all the extras. That being said, the salesman was courteous, explained the extras well, and whipped through his pitch as I politely declined them all.

In closing, he said, "I'm curious, why did you order the European model? The battery on that only lasts about 20 minutes and it doesn't come with the full warranty and all the extras. For only $100 more you could get the U.S. model with all the extras, a warranty, and the battery that is rated for four hours (it's not four hours, by the way, it's about 500 exposures).

I said, yes, I want the U.S. Model. In less than two weeks it was on my doorstep for $850 (closer to the rest of the prices on the net) but it was new and works great.

Don't know if I'd deal with that bait and switch game again, though.

As for SD cards, I use the 'cheapies' and they work fine. Especially compared to having to re-load rolls of film every 24-36 shots. I'd start with "slower" brand name SD card(s) and, if you want to get a faster one due to the demands of your photography, you can still keep the slower one(s) in your bag for the peace-of-mind of having more storage when you need it.

As for where to buy, I always feel safe with the big guys like Circuit City, Best Buy etc. Sounds like Miserere Mei found a great deal for you.

I've been playing with the ideas you all gave me. I like that in AFC the camera will release no matter what. I also went into the custom settings as recommended and turned off the Auto Focus on the shutter release button and like the best of both worlds: Able to have the shutter release when I want it to and still having autofocus available with the AF button. Thank you all so much for your help!

I purchased the Pentax K10D four months ago and have never enjoyed photography

more. I started out with a Spotmatic which was handed down to me from my

grandfather. The Spotmatic was stolen and, after a brief interlude with a Sony

Mavica, I became hooked on digital photography. With the release of the K10D it

was time to go back to SLR. The one thing I miss about the Spotmatic (besides

the great Asahi lenses which were also stolen)is that it was a machine and did

exactly what I told it to do; even if what I told it was wrong.

I've missed some great shots with the K10D because of the "user friendly"

feature programmed in the computer that will not let me take a shot outside of

its programmed parameters or if it does not think it is in focus.

Please tell me how to maintain automatic functions (especially autofocus since

I mostly do aperture and exposure manually)while disabling the computer

deciding not to shoot.

I'm hoping I'm a dunce and missed that section in the user's manual.

Thank you all for your time and sharing your expertise on this great forum.

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Retired People have the coolest toys.<div></div>

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