david_carlisle1

<p>I am right handed, and VERY right eyed (my left eye is lazy) and I am so glad of this considering the cameras that most manufactures make. For the left handed, left eyed photographers out there, how do you manage? Would a dedicated left hand left eye camera tempt you?</p>

<p>Georg, that is a GREAT shot!</p>

<p>Camera Electronic in Stirling St Perth. A great bunch of guys, and one of the best camera stores in Australia. Welcome to Perth! I was horrified when I holidayed in Broome recently, and took my 35 lux asph. Stepping out of the airconditioned apartment, my eyeglasses fogged up completely in the humid Broome air. I shuddered to think of the same moisture finding its way inside the lens.</p>

<p>Thanks to you both! I guess I am reluctant to dismantle the filter. I have a few 52mm Nikkors, and a 135mm F2.0 Ai-S.</p>

<p>I have a Bay 60 Softar 2 filter that I would like to use on my Nikon D3.<br>

I have so far not been able to find an adaptor to achieve this.<br>

Does anyone know if they are available?</p>

<p>My son, when about four years old, took a lovely portrait of my parents standing close together in a bush setting. If I had taken the photo I would have gone in closer, but the wide photo he had taken emphasised their closeness in a greater surround. It also reminded me how less intimidating a child with a camera is to their subject, unlike an old bloke like myself.<br>

In fact, I have had a lifetime of people viewing my latest roll of prints with close to indifference, then suddenly exclaiming - "THIS ONE IS GREAT, - ...and your in it Dave." To which I had to explain that was the ONE photo on the roll where I handed the camera to someone else. (Not always a kid).</p>

<p>Jon, we can't really help you here until we see some of your work. Perhaps you could post twenty or thirty images so we can get a feel of how you shoot.</p>

<p>Also... 150 ISO is not "half way" between 100 ISO and 200 ISO. 141 ISO is. Remember that between 100 and 400 the mid point is 200, not the arithmetic mean of 250. You are after the geometric mean which is found by taking the square root of the product of the two values either side.</p>

<p>I bought 4 rolls of Verichrome Pan recently with use by date of 1987. I exposed one at rated 100ASA and had it developed at a commercial lab in Perth Australia. Despite warnings that a film this old would have lost sensitivity, the negs came back with perfect density.</p>

<p>I too have heard that vinegar aids in cleaning any photoflo residue, though I haven't tried it myself.</p>

<p>The smoothest I remember was a double stroke M3. I didn't end up buying it, but did find it hard to hand back to the guy. It was like there were rubber bands inside!<br>

I really like the winding on of my M6TTL.<br>

I also have an F3HP, but don't know what all the fuss is about with this one.<br>

My Dad has a couple of Minoltas he doesn't use much these days. I must ask to have a play next time I visit.</p>

<p>Thanks Shun! I guess I should have searched, but I spend so much time on this site I was sure I would have seen this subject if it had been raised.<br>

DC.</p>

<p>On my D3, when I select RAW only, I get a RAW image, and when I select JPEG I get a JPEG. However, when I select RAW & JPEG I get TWO JPEGs. Has anyone else come across this? Is it something I'm doing wrong. Is a firmware update needed?<br>

Dave Carlisle.</p>

While watching a documentary yesterday about a Tasmanian LF photographer I was struck once again by the fact

that the quality of his photographs, the look that only large format negatives can give, survives the TV transmission

process with its limited resolution.

 

Any suggestions as to what's going on?

Now that it seems possible to have lenses with aspheric surfaces produced at reasonable cost, what is the

possibility of having a camera lens consisting of only ONE element, with both surfaces aspheric?

I was unaware of the gradual increase in difficulty in loading my patterson plastic reel, blaming my technique. It was only when I bought a yellowed old second hand reel, and noticed that it loaded so much easier, that I started to think about photo-flo residue. I do remember having in the past being unable to find my eye-dropper and pouring about 5 mls of photoflo in. No wonder it gunked up! My camera tech friend suggests cleaning the reel with vinegar. Yes I do believe reels can get sticky from photoflo residue.

Trevor, if you are the same Trevor Hare that used to post pictures on the Leica Forum, I think you are a wonderful photographer. Good luck with your Nikon purchase.

 

Dave Carlisle, Perth Western Australia

I saw an M2 or M3 or M4 in "The Shadow of the Moon" recently. (At a NASA press conference). The were plenty of Nikon F's, and, of course, the Hasselblads used on the moon. Good film, I've seen it twice.

A round hood is ideal for a camera with a round film gate or digital sensor. (Very rare I would suggest). A square hood suits a square frame, and a rectangular one suits a rectangular frame. The "flower" shape attempts to block as much non-image forming light from entering the camera and degrading the image.

Round hoods are easier to use because they don't need to be aligned to the film format, you just screw them in.

 

Dave Carlisle, Perth Western Australia.

I have a couple of these, and their optical performance is just fine as far as I can tell. One of the lenses does have an annoying habit of drifting from the aperture that I had set, (to a wider aperture). While their small size is great for portability, it does make it a bit fiddle to operate compared to the equivalent Nikkor.

 

Dave Carlisle, Perth WA.

Most photographers would say that the ideal focal length for portraits is 85-105mm, and with adults I would agree, but with children and babies, you can be closer and use a wider lens, as this lovely photo demonstrates.

I bought an M6 TTL in Perth for $2000 with warranty. Looking at the used market these days, I wouldn't pay any more than that. DC.

I LOVE chocolate face Steve. Any further details? especially what aperture used? Cheers, DC.

Dan Flanders, do you only take photos in direct sunlight? I almost never do. Overcast, shade, windowlight, indoors, dusk, dawn. Sunny 16 can't help here.

 

Cheers, DC.

Max Dellaway in Subiaco Western Australia fixed my Rolleicord just fine after a shutter jam. Had the parts in stock. Great work, fair prices, and a charming fellow to boot!

 

Dave Carlisle.