kevan_goddard

Hi Ellie,

 

If you "google" for "photoshop plugin, vignette" you will get a few hits! Here's one of them:

http://www.filterforge.com/download/

Look at Freepack 3

 

I hope this solves your problem

Have a look at Alien Skin Exposure.

 

As to Garrison's CD sounding like scratched vinyl - don't you sometimes wish for the smooth, rich sounds of a top-class valve amp???

woot = wrote :o(

William woote: "Do people still believe if they buy that particular car, they instantly become a formula 1 driver or the purchase will be a magnet for an endless line of beautiful women clad in bikinis, making their way to the bedroom . . . ?"

 

Yes, unfortunately, some people do!

Of those mentioned - the SB-26 has a built-in slave function

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf4/flash/SB26/index.htm

Bit of reverse thinking needed! Instead of concentrating on the legs/background, concentrate on the pooch. Extract the pooch and put him/her on a new background.

So you present your photos as-is - sharp as a tack and spots and all?

Spots are transitory - wedding photos are for life!

 

A little PP goes a long way :o)

At a guess I think Wayne is referring to the numerous threads on dpreview concerning dead battery syndrome on the D300

Quote "With all the different RAW versions out there I would worry about not being able to reach back in 10 or 20 years and open my old files."

 

Hi Jim,

One worry easily solved - save the old versions of your RAW software! Although I moved from Minolta to Nikon nearly 2 years ago I still have copies of Minolta software backed up onto hard disk. I even back up old copies of Photoshop, etc.

 

And before someone mentions that future Operating Systems might not be compatible - I save OS versions also (in my defense, I'm an I.T. consultant and some of the systems I come across are positively ancient - MS Windows on floppy disk anyone!)

The best place on the web to learn how to light is

http://strobist.blogspot.com/

 

Be prepared for a lot of reading

Speed is not an issue - would seem to be the consensus. What about backing up your images, we all backup on a regular basis don't we????

 

Backing up either from or to a 500gB slow drive ain't much fun!

I have over 3TB of disk space now (I no longer back up to DVD - disks are almost as cheap) and with one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Trayless-Mobile-Rack-Drive-Interface/dp/B000FSBVNC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1211896612&sr=8-1

I can swap 500gB SATA drives to my hearts content.

 

Get the best you can afford - don't buy down to a price - your pictures are priceless

Quote "...(I'm not that keen on computers)..."

If this is really the case, you will need to think seriously about the move from film to digital.

 

With digital all that magical/mystical stuff between sending off your film to a lab and getting the photos back you will have to do yourself on a computer! (That is if you want to get the best out of the camera and shoot in RAW)

 

Before you make the jump - and the D300 is a fantastic camera by the way - take into account the whole process from pressing the button to producing the print.

 

Who knows, you may begin to enjoy using a computer!

@ George Joell

 

Thanks for the tip George - added to my library

In my last post I said:

"... more light than non-reflective surfaces (skin, etc.) so the camera's auto system is fooled - nothing is perfect."

 

Non- reflective - whoops! What I should have said was "more light than normal surfaces ..."

 

Apologies

Elliott Bernstein is correct. Here is an extract from page 54 of the SB-800 manual: "Some plus compensation may be necessary when the background includes a mirror, white wall, or other highly reflective surface".

 

Why is this? In simple terms the SB800 sends out pre-flashes which are used by the camera to obtain metering information (these pre-flashes are sent almost simultaneously with the main flash so it looks as if the flash has only fired once).

 

Light reflected back from the subject is detected and the camera uses this information to automatically control the main flash output level to give the correct exposure - the more light reflected back from the pre-flashes the lower the main flash level will be.

 

Obviously a mirror and / or a glass sliding door reflect considerably more light than non-reflective surfaces (skin, etc.) so the camera's auto system is fooled - nothing is perfect.

 

Either dial in some positive EV (again see page 54 of the SB-800 manual) or use manual mode - it's not as daunting as you might think.

 

Just one question from me - why f13?? Worried about DofF?

 

Regards

Set up a "dry run" with same placement you will be using on the day - backdrop to subject, subject to camera, etc. Use the same camera, lens, focal distance, etc.

 

Only difference - use a blank wall instead of backdrop. Compose the different shots then measure the amount of wall visible in each shot.

Just spoken to my cousin's father-in-law's nephew's girl-friend's best friend - she knows someone who has a cousin who's brother in law works for Canon. Apparently Canon have started a disinformation blog called Nikon Rumors :o)

1 - Good;

2 - Yes;

 

3 - No;

 

4 - Yes;

 

5 - nVida;

 

6 - Yes - Colour Good - Black Excellent - Eye One Display 2 (In the following Black Point test I can see changes starting at 3 - http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/Calibration/monitor_black.htm)

 

7 - No;

 

8 - No

if you can't go "anywhere" to use it.

Just spent my D3 money (and some more) on my BMW 8 series. No brainer - I hate walking!

 

Plus what's the point in having great camera gear if you can't go antwhere to use it.

 

Kept withdrawal symptoms at bay by getting a 28-70mm f2.8 for my D200 :o)

How about a night school class? Only Joking :o)

Tips I remember from when I was a minolta shooter - courtesy of Gary Friedman (www.friedmanarchives.com):

* - Put the camera on a tripod

* - Turn Anti-shake OFF

* - ISO to 100

* - Manual exposure mode, set the shutter speed to BULB.

* - Focus-lock on your subject and switch to manual focus mode.

* - If you?re shooting streets lit with mercury vapor lamps, set the white

balance to ?Flourescent?. If your scene is lit with normal light bulbs, set the

white balance to ?Tungsten?. If you?re not sure, use Auto White Balance.

* - Set the f/stop to something medium, like f/5.6.

* - Attach a remote release cord if you have one.

􀀹 Start with a 30-second exposure, look at

the results, and tweak your exposure

from there.

Take a shot of the sky without the subjects. Bring in the subjects and take second shot metered for the subjects. Layer the two together in photoshop.<div></div>

I have one of these:

 

http://www.tantronics.co.uk/acatalog/info_1_BAG_TAM_5612.html

I had (past tense) the Sigma 18-50mm f2.8 EX DC Macro but didn't like the yellow cast I was getting on my D200. I've just managed to acquire a mint condition Nikon 28-70mm f2.8 and hopefully, like Greg, will be using it for the majority of my "ceremony" shots. Now looking to get hold of a Nikon 17-35mm f2.8 for group shots.

Hi Jennifer,

 

If you're finding Strobist a little advanced for your needs then parts of "Light: Science and Magic" will be even more so.

Have a look at "Master Lighting Guide for Portrait Photographers" by Christopher Gray.

 

I have both books and the second one may be a little easier for you to digest. Having said that, if you manage to get your head around "Light:etc." we'll be coming to you for advice!

 

With regard to lights, I follow the Strobist ethos - using several Nikon SB-800s for portability and ease of use (either manual or Nikon Creative Light System).

 

Hope this helps

Kevan G