kevan_goddard

Would have to be a really dumb scam artist to produce a fake box then put a genuine lens inside :o)

"I'm also looking for unique impact... "

 

Shared ideas, by definition, would no longer be unique :o)

Not on my machines - I run a firewall/anti-virus and malware (spyware) protection. Searching on Google for "Virus, Camera" and browse the results - cards can become infected from an infected machine with ANY virus, not just those designed to hit picture files. After all, a card is just another external device and if your machine is infected, chances are that your cards will be infected as soon as you use them - as yet your camera appears to be safe but don't get complacent, get protected!

PS Wish there was a edit button :o)

 

Gretchen,

 

I've added some more two light shots as examples - backgrounds added in photoshop (all from a web shoot for kids'

Robin Hood type costumes - well I do live in Nottingham!)

 

I agree with some of the other posters, monoblock lights are better (in some situations) HOWEVER - for what you

plan to do SB800s will be fine.

 

Before anyone starts to argue, this man makes my point - see what a top pro can do with flash:

 

 

http://davidtejada.blogspot.com/

 

Cheerz

Kev G

Hi Gretchen,

 

Get the answers straight from the "horse's mouth" http://strobist.blogspot.com/

Probably the best site for portable flash info.

 

Having said that, to do what you want to do professionally, you will need more than one flash (2 is OK, 3 would be better) and they need to be off camera.

Have a look at my "Sampler" folder - indoor shots (18, 21 & 22) done with 2 SB800s on stands shot through umbrellas - all other flash shots with single SB800 on a flash bracket.

http://www.kevangoddard.com/p534134423

 

email me if you want further info on flash (too much to post here)

 

Cheerz

Kev G

I'm assuming you will be using light modifiers for the shot (umbrellas / soft boxes).

The zoom function and light modifiers have polar opposite functions: the first is to narrow / concentrate the

light beam so that on a bare flash you can evenly illuminate objects further away; whilst the second is to

produce as large a light source as possible - for wrap around and softness.

 

If you use a light modifier and the zoom facility together, this will have the effect of only illuminating a

percentage of the light modifier - which defeats the reason for using a light modifier in the first place -

producing as large a light source as possible (unless there are special effects you are looking for).

 

I set my SB800s as wide as possible when using an umbrella - in fact I leave the diffusion dome on the SBs which

automatically sets the zoom to 14mm - nice wide beam (at the expense of distance)

Roman - what book (and which lesson)?

Someone may have a copy and be able to point you in the right direction.

I have recently acquired a mint copy of a Nikkor 28-70mm f2.8 for use with my D200 - the results are amasing.

I no longer output sharpen in photoshop - just capture sharpen in NX2.

 

Sample - my son and grand-daughter hamming it up at a recent family occasion:<div></div>

Filing systems are as unique to each individual as fingerprints. For example you may not keep your socks in the

same drawer as your "undies" - some people do; is your kitchen storage laid-out the same as your neighbour's?

Maybe not. All around you in your everyday life you encounter "filing" systems - what's right for me may not be

right for you (90% of the time what's right for me ISN'T right for the wife!)

 

For what it's worth I have a really complicated system for my wedding images (NEFs): use - don't use! If you are

worried about finding your "best images" in the future here's a tip - have a folder called ...

"When I buy a song or songs for my soundtrack"...

 

... flexibility in using YOUR music ...

 

Without wishing to get flamed here, surely copyright is being infringed here unless you have a licensing agreement? How would you feel if someone used your photographs for a project without your permission and, more importantly, without paying for the right to use them?

I wish there was an edit facility on this site :o(

 

Another though just occurred to me - perceived value. Are your wedding CDs/DVDs professionally presented -

printed disk in case with printed cover - or are they just plain old "here's a disk".

 

Example of cover (low res):<div></div>

Is the original CD just for viewing the photographs or viewing and printing??

For viewing only: low res (72 dpi); DVD slideshow; flash movie; copyright symbol; etc., etc.

 

If you want to allow printing then I'm afraid there is not a lot you can do - if the movie industry cannot stop pirating of their discs - including BluRay and HDTV (yes I know this is already dead) then what chance have you got??

 

You could also "rethink" your business model - how many "extra" CDs do you actually sell and at what price?

Why not increase the price of the first CD to take into account pirating and not have to rely on the extra income from repeat orders?

Jake - forgot to mention - it's your church man! Everyone gets excited when they get a chance at their first "paying" job - don't look at this as a chance to generate some income look at it as a chance to generate some standing with The Big Man Upstairs.

I don't know your level of experience/expertise with Photoshop - but here's a conundrum: the less experienced you

are - the longer it would take - the more you would have to charge.

 

What work did you carry out in Photoshop? Was there sufficient post processing to warrant an invoice of $720?

Did you evaluate/post process each image individually? If so could the work have been done any quicker using

actions/batch processing, etc?

 

Bottom line - if you want to become a full-time photographer you need to build up a portfolio AND some good will.

Weigh up how much good-will you will get by dropping all charges against an $800 payment!

 

Do it a s a freebie provided you get credit on all the brochures, etc. With a church minister batting for you and

all that coverage, other jobs should come rolling in!

 

Case in point - I've just done some work with a well-known hotel chain for a charity - didn't charge a bean,

wrote it off to marketing. Now when the hotel in question sends out information for wedding receptions,

conferences, etc. they include one of my leaflets!! Plus the marketing manager wants to work on a package deal

(for weddings)!

 

Money can't buy the kind of kudos you will get - bite the bullet and tear up the invoice.

Simon - why not adjust an image, save the settings and then batch process the rest (overnight whilst you are in

bed, whilst you are watching a movie, etc.)

 

I know you have probably been told this a thousand times - use RAW not JPEG! I use nothing but RAW for my

weddings. More leeway if you make a faux pas (forgot you had -1EV set, wrong white balance set, over-saturated,

etc.) - and you can always "batch" correct if necessary.

 

For example, I always use a whibal card and take a test photo (including the card) for each lighting situation I

come across - I then colour correct each test photo and batch process all associated files - I get really good

(white) balanced photos this way. I do a lot of my post processing whilst asleep - now that's what you call time

management!

 

Thanks for the offer but my sleep time is fully booked :o)

 

Cheers

Kev G

It's not an ethical problem if you already have calibration software!

Demo version of ColorEyes: http://www.integrated-color.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=ICC&Category_Code=DL

 

Now all you need to borrow/rent is the hardware bit - no licence violation/no ethical problem!

 

If you like it - buy it!

Open in NX2 and set the saturation at -40

Watch the film "The Forbidden Kingdom" to see why a monopod would most likely be a no-no!

Hi Richard,

Loved your version of MacArthur Park :o)

 

On a more serious note, if your motherboard supports SATA drives why not get one of these:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Trayless-Mobile-Rack-Drive-Interface/dp/B000FSBVNC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1219840557&sr=8-1

You can then "swop" SATA (I wouldn't suggest you try hot swapping as per the advert - I don't) drives as necessary.

 

I use one extremely fast 150gB drive for my operating system, 2 internal 500gB SATA drives as storage and the mobile rack connected to my motherboard's 4th SATA controller. This way I can use multiple back-up drives - and a lot quicker than external USBs (I have 2 x 500gB of those also!)

 

Hope this helps

Kev G

I have not personally tried this method - but I intend to (Scott Kelby is a photoshop guru):

http://www.layersmagazine.com/photographytester_color_correctingphp.html

I use a whibal white balance reference card - works perfectly

Using the Nikon Creative Lighting System by Mike Hagen

http://www.outthereimages.com/publishing.html

The woman's face between the bride and groom draws the eye away from the main two characters - and for that alone I wouldn't bother saving this one. But if you really want a "keeper" perhaps a vignette reflecting the prevalent colour of the scene<div></div>

You need:

The Adobe Photoshop Layers Book

by Richard Lynch (focal press)

The limitations you are experiencing aren't with photoshop CS3! Search the web for photoshop courses, read books, etc.

 

CS3 is a fantastic programme but you need to educate yourself how to use it :o)

 

A quick search found this page: http://howto.wired.com/wiki/Batch_Process_Images_in_Photoshop