sdsalyer
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Posts posted by sdsalyer
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You can change the resolution of your images in the camera, but the aspect ratio will stay the same (ie. they will still be rectangular). If you want square, you need to crop the photos in post-processing. There are many, many programs which can do simple cropping, some of them free even (e.g. IrfanView ... google it). :)
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Robert,
I've never owned or used a 300D, but I just recently purchased a used 20D on eBay. It came with several accessories: namely the 18-55 USM lens (basically the kit lens, but with a USM motor), lens hood, UV filter, and a lens pouch -- all Canon branded. The body had less than 900 actuations, which is right next to "unused". For $600, I thought it was a steal.
$450 sounds like a pretty good deal. Some body only sales on eBay go for around that price, and if you know the seller and the real condition of the camera, well that's even better.
Not having used a 300D personally, I can't say what "real" gains you would see from using a 20D, but you might consider hanging on to your 300D as a "backup" body.
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Kat,
I agree with Frank. There are two options here (in no particular order):
1.) You need to decide what, if anything, your XT is missing which would justify the cost of "upgrading" to a different body. The quality of your images won't change noticeably -- it's most about features on the camera body which makes taking those images "easier".
2.) As I've heard it put so many times before: a camera is just a light-tight box and it's the lens in front of it that is important. Maybe it's time for a new lens (or flash, etc.) to fill a gap in your current line up, rather than a new body.
I've come to the realization that I spend far too much time reading and fretting over gear and not enough time taking photographs. The best camera is the one you have, as long as you're out there using it!
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No memory card, no photos. You didn't mention what model camera you have, but chances are, it doesn't have internal storage and won't store any images when the shutter is fired with no memory card installed.
You can likely change your camera's settings to not allow shooting without a memory card inserted and save yourself some wasted effort in the future. :)
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You could also try using the depth of field preview button on your camera to see how aperture changes affect what's in focus. Using this button will dim the viewfinder (depending on the aperture) but if you look carefully you can also see how it changes what's in focus. Practice with it some... it can be very useful at times, though it seems like most people overlook this feature of their cameras.
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You may find this link useful (I did): <a href="http://www.chapelhillnoir.com/mani/techs/mdofwalk.html">http://www.chapelhillnoir.com/mani/techs/mdofwalk.html</a>
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One more thing... using text for the links will screw up the alignment you've laid out if someone uses an increased or decreased font size in their browser. You might consider making GIF images of the text... they shouldn't make for very large files and it will give you full control over the finished product. :)
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I agree with the "headline" look of the links. However, I think it would work without the "under construction" spiel (or any other text for that matter) on the same page. The text beneath it is what makes it feel like the links are a headline.
I looked at the site using both Firefox and IE7 (and a text browser, but it looked fine there), and in both instances the page within the inline frame doesn't quite fit, causing scroll bars to show, which I think ruins the effect you were trying to achieve. In IE7, there was also the side effect of the links on the right falling down below the image rotation, which just doesn't work at all. I am using a 19" widescreen monitor at 1440x900 resolution, though I'm not sure it would throw off the frame like that.
You could probably do away with the inline frame altogether by using server side includes (or PHP includes) for a "header" and "footer" file and still achieve the same look and feel and still keep things consistent on every page.
Are you writing the code yourself or using a WYSIWYG editor? Your code doesn't validate as XHTML 1.1 as there are a lot of "unclosed" tags (e.g. <br> instead of <br />). This shouldn't affect how most browsers render the page, but I am a bit OCD and like everything to validate.
You might also consider a <noscript> for the off chance someone visiting your site doesn't allow javascript, as then they wouldn't see your photos displaying.
I think it's a nice design and will make a fine website with a little tweaking. Good luck! :)
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The Canadian dollar is roughly equivalent to the American dollar for the first time in 30+(?) years right now, so maybe that's got something to do with it. :)
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You can download the manual for the Rebel XTi at the following URL:
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A free Flickr account is I think 100MB/month upload, but I'm not sure there's a limit on the storage. Another downside is you can only make 3 "sets" of photos.
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Hosting your own website is not all that expensive nowadays, and with a little knowledge, it isn't all that hard to do. For, say, $10 a month, you could have plenty of bandwidth and storage space along with PHP/MySQL usage. Drop in an opensource photo album package like <a href="http://gallery.menalto.com/">Gallery</a> and you're well on your way..
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According to Wikipedia, there is a 50mm f/3.5 macro and a 100mm f/4 macro (which requires a bellows) in the FL mount. Nice photos. :)
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Most zoom lenses have an aperture range, eg. 3.5-5.6 as on the 18-55 kit lens, which changes depending on the focal length you have set. At the 18mm (widest) setting, you can set the aperture to 3.5. At the 55mm (longest) setting, the max aperture will be 5.6. If it's stopping at 4 or 4.5, you're somewhere in the middle -- perhaps around 35mm.
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There is a manual for the 500 f/4L IS USM at the EOS Documentation Project, if that's any help:<p />
<a href="http://www.eosdoc.com/manuals/?q=500f4LIS">http://www.eosdoc.com/manuals/?q=500f4LIS</a>
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Yinka,
I have not tried this myself, but I believe you have to put the camera in Manual (M) mode for bulb exposures. The shutter stays open as long as you hold the shutter button (or lock the button on the remote). If you need to time exposures exactly, you'll have to use a watch.
SDS
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Have you tried KEH.com? They specialize in used camera sales. I have not used them personally, but I hear a lot of good things about them (try searching here on photo.net). They sell used gear based on condition ratings, so you could pay anywhere from $250-600 for an EOS 3. Hope this helps. :)
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I have an S3, but have only used rechargeable NiMH batteries. I recommend you invest in some of these, especially if you use your camera often. Despite the initial cost, you will save money in the long run as most NiMH batteries can be recharged upwards of 100 times. I keep 4 in the camera, and 4 charged as spares and have not hit a situation yet where I was wanting for battery power.
If Canon says not to use Lithiums, I wouldn't use lithiums unless it was an emergency situation. I have a Canon Elan 7 film SLR with a battery grip, and while it can use AA's it says explicitly not to use lithiums. I believe it may be a voltage thing. Standard Alkalines are 1.5V, and I believe Lithiums can vary up to 1.8V.
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Thanks everyone for your responses. I have emailed the fellow back, asking some needed questions, but letting him know I still may be interested. Traveling back and forth may be rough, but I think it will be worth it for the fun and experience. :)
SDS
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Reading my response again, I think I could've worded it better. The K2 has no rear dial, only a main dial near the shutter button. In aperture priority (Av) mode, the main dial changes the aperture value (aka f-stop). In shutter priority (Tv) mode, the main dial changes shutter speed. In full manual (M) mode, the main dial changes shutter speed and you have to press a button on the back of the camera and simultaneously turn the main dial to adjust aperture. This button on the back adjusts exposure compensation when in Av, Tv, or P modes.
Higher tiered cameras like the Elan 7 with a rear control dial just eliminate the need to push a button, giving you a rotating dial instead. Sorry if that was confusing.
Good luck with your photography class. :)
SDS
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Here is a PDF file of the manual:
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<p />
I don't have a K2, but I have an Elan 7 which is somewhat similar, though it also has a rear "quick dial". Try putting the camera in Av mode and rotating the main dial near the shutter button.
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Hello everyone. :)
I responded to an ad in a nearby small-town newspaper regarding a part-time high
school football/volleyball photography job. I am a novice at best and haven't
been at photography long (which I was very forthcoming about), but I thought it
might be a worthwhile experience, if for no other reason than to say I'd been
published/paid for photos (not that I intend to be a pro... it's really just an
-- albeit obsessive -- hobby so far). I included some shots I took at a
motorsports event several months back since they asked for samples and that was
basically all I had related to sports.
The fellow (I think he's the head photographer for the paper) responded and
seemed to like my photos. He didn't answer all of the questions I had, but he
asked me to get back with him if I was still interested in the job. All he
really told me was that it involves shooting mostly high school football and
that it pays $7.00 per hour.
I find per-hour pay to be a bit confusing. I assumed I might be paid mileage
and then a flat rate for specific photos they would be interested in purchasing.
I've searched here on photo.net and that seems to be the norm. My concern is
that they might expect to own the rights to all of the photos taken during time
"on the clock" as it were. Obviously, I'd much rather not surrender those rights.
Anyway, the pay isn't what concerns me (though rights to the images does). I
just thought it might be worth it for the experience, even if I didn't make a
penny in the process. I have a few other concerns, seeing as I've never even
attempted shooting football, I would likely be driving 1hr+ to get to these
games (the paper is a couple counties over), and I don't want to ruin my gear by
getting crunched on the sidelines or drowning my cameras in rain/snow/mud.
I haven't really entertained the idea of trying to be a pro photographer, though
selling a photo every now and then wouldn't be terrible. I responded to the ad
in the hopes that I might enjoy myself and earn a few bucks to offset the hobby
in the process.
Would it be worth it just to get that "professional" experience under my belt?
What questions should I ask before agreeing to giving it a try?
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. :)
Thank you,
SDS
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That's an interesting notion. I've always been sort of fascinated by old, seemingly abandoned houses, and I'm sure every town has at least a couple (I can think of 3 or 4 offhand in my small town).
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The following was shot in digital with a PowerShot S3, and not the greatest, but I think it's a terrific old house. It's not totally choked by plant growth, but the grass all around it was very high (I'm sure it gets cut for hay a couple times a year) and there were some sort of flowers growing up the back side of it and up onto the roof. I just really like it for some reason. :)
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=909374487&size=l">click</a>
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It is on page 19 and 20 of the manual.<p />
If you don't have the manual you can find it here:<br />
</a>
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Just click on the Drivers & Downloads tab, then on the Manuals link.
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Thanks everyone for your responses. I have some thinking to do on where to start with lenses, but first I've got to get my hands on a dSLR.
The EF-S lens idea bugs me. While it's great that they're designed specifically to compensate for the small-sensor issue, they won't mount up to my Elan 7, nor a full frame dSLR if I ever get my hands on one in the future. If I'm going to spend several hundred dollars on a lens, I want it work on my current and future cameras alike.
However, if I manage to pick up an EF-S lens in the deal with a camera, I might hang on to it for a while anyways. That would take a lot of the sting out of it I suppose. :)
Thanks again everyone. I really appreciate it.
SDS
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I believe it stands for "multi-coated" in this case.
Need to know about some cameras
in Classic Manual Film Cameras
Posted
You might also consider a Minolta SRT model. I have bought a couple of these on eBay -- one of which came with 3 lenses, a flash, and a bag -- for around $30. The lenses are excellent quality, and not too expensive since they are discontinued.
Many of these old manual focus SLR's from the 60's and 70's can be had very cheaply ($50 or so) if you shop around for a while, and there's not really a huge difference between one body and the next. The exception might be Nikons, which often sell well above the $100 mark. If you have some patience and don't mind rummaging through other people's junk, flea markets, yard/garage sales, and thrift stores (Goodwill, Salvation Army) can sometimes yield a spectacular find for very little money.