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andre_stull

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Posts posted by andre_stull

  1. Had the same problem with my 50 1.4 on 5D. Bought the ee-s screen for D of F and manual focusing in low light. Works perfectly. 40D uses the ef-s screen for this ability. All 1D series cameras have interchangeable screens.

     

    They cost around 35 bucks. Easy to change with Canon kit that comes with screens. Called Super Precision Matte screens. Auto focus accuracy improves as well. Great upgrade. Viewfinder will be a little darker with lenses slower than 2.8 but not bad enough to switch screens constantly.

     

    Best upgrade I have done for only 35 bucks! And much higher keeper rate.

  2. Everyone so far has a very valid response. However, for the very reasons you mentioned..large viewfinder, low noise, low available light shooting, manual focusing and image quality the 5D is the answer. If you need the crop factor for shooting sports or wildlife then keep it. Otherwise, sell what you have (but keep that full frame macro lense) to get the 5D and some glass.

     

    Do not worry about the upgrade 5D that's coming. It will cost over 3g's. The current one is a steal compared to any other full frame sensor camera sold (3000 less than Nikon D3 and 5000 less than Canon 1DS Mark 3). The specials for 5D and Pro 9000 printer for 2000 is a awesome deal. Or the 5D and 24-105L for 2900 is awesome too.

     

    I bought the 5D with 15 fisheye, 50 1.4 and 70-300 DO and DxO Optics Pro version 5 software. This system is awesome. DxO is amazing..just try the demo at dxo.com and it will transform your raw images from the 5D. It 'de-fishes' the fisheye into a 12mm normally and 7mm fully. No crop camera can touch this wide range. I also changed the focusing screen to the ee-s for manually focusing in low light with my 50 1.4 because I hate flash. The larger viewfinder and manual focusing works perfectly on the 5D and that's reason enough for it!

     

    Also, you can always crop any image to the size of the so-called advantage of the crop bodies. It will have somewhat less megapixels but it can be done easily. So, the only true advantage for crop bodies is frames per second. If you need more than three which 85 percent of most photographers do not then get the 40D I suppose.

     

    O yes, lenses..why invest in crop lenses that cost the same as full frame 'L's. I just do not understand why people do this..for example..a 10-22 crop cost the same as a full frame 17-40L..which one do you think will retain it's value and comes with a hood, pouch, weather sealed, and better mechanics..and you need to put good glass on any camera not just full frame ones by the way!

     

    FINALLY, NO CROP BODY FROM ANY MANUFACTURER CAN GATHER MORE LIGHT THAN A FULL FRAME SENSOR! ESPECIALLY ONE WITH A 8.2um PIXEL PITCH!

  3. "The simultaneous recognition, in a fraction of a second, of the significance of an event as well as the precise organization of forms which gives that event its proper expression... In photography, the smallest thing can be a great subject. The little detail can become a leitmotif." -Henri Cartier-Bresson

     

    The "Father of Street Photography" used a 50mm lens. So, the 50 1.4 seems like a great choice. If you need a zoom, use your feet like I do..

  4. If you stay with crop body get the 24-105 because the tamron lens you have is playing in similar focal range as the 24-70 with same speed.

     

    If you see yourself going with a full frame body it gets more interesting but I would choose the 24-105 again because of all the fast prime lenses you already have.

     

    May I also suggest you try out DxO Optics Pro Version 5 demo (dxo.com). It will fix the distortions and sharpen images automatically for the 24-105 and your primes. It has really amazed me with it's quality. Give it a try even if you use photoshop etc..

  5. Jon,

     

    Sell the Epson, because all mine would clog eventually (piezo effect). Only keep if you print a lot of B/W photos or use a Mac computer.

     

    Keep the Canon because it uses dye inks. However, if you use a Mac with OS X and Safari beware. I've been told it prefers Firefox (latest version). I run Vista, so everything is fine.

     

    Plus the Canon plugs directly into 5D and that print button turns flashing blue. If you shoot jpegs it can come in handy without the computer. And you can crop image as well on 5D screen. Cool integration.

     

    At the end of the day it's about image quality and both of these produce excellent results. However, I think the Canon provides a better combination with your 5D system.

  6. The 5D allows lenses to behave the way they were designed. The 40D is a great camera, but it's really about lenses. A 10-22 costs the same as a full frame 17-40L! Next, crop lenses cannot go wider or faster than the 10-22. Why do people limit themselves just because the crop bodies are cheaper?

     

    I will never upgrade my 5D body until it stops working. Will invest in great glass only and DxO Optics Pro version 5. Just try DxO with your 5D and be prepared to be amazed. With my 50 1.4 results are beyond vivid and sharp and distortion free. I cut my finger just pointing at the screen one day to show my friends the results of how sharp my images were. :)

     

    Finally, the 5D with Pro 900 printer is simply a great deal, and the smart choice for years to come. Your full frame lenses will retain their value longer than crop lenses too. My suggestions for lenses and software are:

     

    50 1.4, 70-300 DO, 15 Fisheye, DxO Optics Pro version 5 (dxo.com)

     

    DxO will transform the 70-300 DO into an amazing one for street unobtrusive photography. And make the 15 fisheye a 12mm normally and then a 7mm with full distortion removed!

     

    Oh yes, shoot Raw.

     

    Happy Holidays and go take some pics!

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