gerry_hopkins1

<p>I am with Chris on this one, Did you use enough solution? I have develooped film for many years and still in a moment of asbsent mindedness I make this mistake! , also remember agitation is important too</p>

<p>Dont know much about sprint its not available in the uk, but if the developer was fresh and you did what the packet said then I would say its underexposure in the camera, check your cameras meter would be a good start.</p>

<p>I would agree, its uneven development possibly through a lack of agitation, I wouldn't use this processor again and ask for my money back and some free film, ever thought of developing your own film the equipent you would need is cheap and chemistry isnt that expensive.</p>

<p>Hi Brandon,<br>

Developers in my long experience are always best used one shot (use it once then throw it away) T max developer however can be bought (in Uk) as either a one shot solution or two bottle repelnishment kit for comercial and college use where lots of people are processing films -as i remember from my photo degree days you had to add 10ml of repenishment solution for every 5 films processed -the kit is dear and for home use I recomend sticking to the one shot t max -developer really isnt that expensive really</p>

<p>David Bailey used tri x pushed to 800 for his grainy shots</p>

<p>Hi again with regarde to my previouse post the name of the film is:</p>

<h3>Adox CMS 20 check out the specification at silverprint.co.uk<br /></h3>

<p>My favourite film for landscape used to be Kodak technical pan -now discontinued but a replacement and a near copy of this film is available from silverprint ,like tech pan it has an ASA rating of 25 it is an extremely fine grained film and each roll is suplied with a bottle of developer -if only I can remember the name of it! but if you visit silverprints websit and look under the film section you will spot it no problem.<br>

Tech Pan was originaly formulated for scientific and medical work but landscapers soon hooked on to its fine grain and many said it gave medium format quality from a 35mm film - quite a contrasty film so technidol was the developer that worked best and I presume that the new films developer is also a copy of technidol,<br>

I was anoyed when kodak discontinued it and I have ordered some of the copy from silverprint who say its characteristics are virtualy the same. because of the slow film speed and small apetures req for landscape a tripod is a must! as you are almost certainly going to be into timed exposures.</p>

<p>I love my spotmatics, I bought my first one in the 80s -a bashed up old spotmatic 500 with a dented prism for 10 quid, over the years I have aquired the whole spotmatic range - they are so reliable never let you down and they feel like a real camera not the plastic crap you get today!</p>

<p>I dont rely on the cameras meter - the cells are so old that `i doubt the reading would be correct,for metering I use a hand held meter<br>

Spotmatics -if only they made em like that now!</p>

<p>I myself am a sucker for a bargain and have bought over the years lots of out of date film , I use the recomended developing times and always get good results without any compensation at all.<br>

You say the film has been frozen,if what the seller syas is true it should be perfectly ok though do re-freeze it<br>

I am still using a bulk film roll that is out of date by five years its ok, I would buy it if the price was right dont go paying over the odds</p>

<p>I Have two Durst modular 7 enlargers that cost the earth when I bought them! I thought last year that i might let one go, but what I was getting offered for them was an insult so i am going to hang on to it. Its obviouse that an item is only worth what you can get for it and as digital seems to be the thing thees days darkroom equiment will be worth less and less - Though there will always be the purist photographers who would rather give up photography than use digital - I have tried it and hate it with a vengence! nothing can replace the pleasure of seeing a print develop in the tray and llok at the result and know everything has come together. digital always reminds me of what Eugene Atget said to man ray when he loaned him a Rolleiflex "it works faster than i can think!" and he went back to his plate camera. its too instant for me and the pictures look flat with no depth- anyone agree? - Its just my old fashioned opinion!</p>

<p>Can anyone recomend an ASA rating using rollei infrared with a Hoya deep red R72 filter</p>

<p>I to have been acustomed to shooting with Kodak Infrared film - now its gone sadly so i have bought some of the Rollei stuff to try in 35mm and 120, I have also bought a Hoya deep red R72 filter. the question is what would you guys recomend as an ASA Meter setting? its rated at 400 but I guess thats without a filter, any sugestions greatly recieved!<br>

Gerry Hopkins</p>

 

I know it doesn't look nice but I use two strips of low tack masking tape one on the bottom and one on the top of a hoya 46mm filter taping it to the knurled edge of the lens the filter is held firmly in place and it works well - try avoid putting the tape on the glass though

The camera body looks in great condition! and even if the lens did need repair the body and bits you sold with it are worth what he paid you= I have seen that summitar lens hood go for 40 + pounds on ebay - he is a winger treat him as such

I have two 111f black dials -I now know the difference between black and red dials thanks to you guys -many thanks

 

the latest one I bought on e bay was described as boxed and in exelent condition = what a joke removed the lens and hey guess what no shutter blinds and whether the wind on and shutter release is working god knows wont know that till the blinds are replaced -just been quoted ?185 for repair be wary of skanky dealers on ebay is my advice