ricardo_tomasi

I eventually figured there is no point in buying graduated filters these days. They give you limited options and you need a straight transition to get the best effect.

 

You can get the same with HDR and without the downside. Keep in mind good HDR doesn't have strange colors or overbrightened shadows.

You can send it to me if you like (I'd love it)! :]

 

So that means you're sticking with Sony's system?

Beau: I understand your concerns, but what you're doing is not right. You can't take someones picture and post it on the internet or use for whatever, you need their consent, preferably a written authorization if it's for a job. That's one of the reasons street shooters approach their subjects. The other is that the photos will be much better, more relaxed and you don't have to worry about hiding your intentions. Your pictures are more like stalking/spying than street shooting, no offense :]

Thanks for the link Rob.

 

Debbie, you seem a bit confused. I think you're going too fast, try to slow down and learn all your current camera can offer, whatever it is.

 

I read your thing about the seminar. If you really knew enough about your equipment you would be certainly be able to "argue your way" into that seminar - unless it was really all about Nikon's Creative Lighting System (which I doubt, Canon or Olympus flash systems workd differently).

 

You can go to any "Pro" seminar with a K1000 and learn a lot. It's all about light and knowing how to use it.

 

All in all, I hope you have good fun with your K20D, you're very lucky to have it. Enjoy it!

 

P.S: did you lose any learning opportunities because of the Alpha?

*Free* and very effective one (hold your stones): Microsoft Windows PhotoStory!

 

It's very easy to use, you can edit all the pics on the fly, add effects, record voice-overs, insert music... surprinsingly it only crashed twice on Vista, due to a problem with the cd burner. Don't forget to save your files often.

So? Show me that the noise at ISO 1600 magically dissapears on the K10D with an exposure like that.

For starters the cleaner high ISO of the K100D, lighter and smaller form and the fact that it can take much better pictures straight out of the camera (not requiring post-processing) should be a no-brainer, price aside. The K10D is selling ridiculously low for what it is - but remember the kit lens won't cut it with it.

BBQ'ed eggplant tastes great! Season it with olive oil and a bit of salt, goes well with a tomato sauce with lots of fresh basil :] (actually there should be a turkey fillet in the middle of that, but I'm skipping it)

 

Great shot. I would see a doctor first and then disinfect the K10D with some light alcohol/water sprays.

Denys, the movement the OP mentioned happens when the camera is off or without batteries. It's exactly the "noise when you rotate the camera" you said and it is perfectly normal!

Actually the latest iMacs are know for having relatively "bad" screens. Color changes a lot specially when changing the angle of view vertically, and they have some color casts due to the electronics mounted behind them.

 

The Cinema displays are flawless though. And being able to see a 6mp image at 100% on full screen is nothing short of astounding! :)

 

Make sure you see it for yourself before making a decision!

Oh. sorry about that. It was almost midnight here, I was a bit sleepy. Here we go again:<br>

 

17-23mm f/2.8<br>

24-40mm f/3.5<br>

40-70mm f/4.0<br>

70mm f/4.5<br>

17 to 24mm - f2.8

 

24 to 40mm - f3.5

 

40 to 74(?)mm - f4, it only becomes f4.5 at 75mm

 

It's a really nice lens, you won't regret it :)

Sigma 10-20mm? Leave it at 16mm and have fun :)

Sorry for the confusion, I typed the GBP symbol but the forum doesn't like it!

For anyone trying to decide between the K10D and it's small sister, you can get

two K100Ds for the price of one K10!

 

I was going to post yesterday, as ASDA was selling the K100D kit + free camera

bag for ?249.99. Today I decided to take yet another look at the offerings -

guess what!? The K100D is selling for ?229 now!

 

If you need a backup body, you can buy that, sell the lens on ebay (~?30) and

get if for just ?190! I'd be doing that right now if I hadn't spent all my money

on new lenses :D

Misere: actually the technology of the sensors is the main obstacle for Live view as we know it from P&S. The big sensors can't cope with the frame rate needed, and there are limitations on the processing too. There really isn't any other similarity between P&S sensors and DSLR ones despite both being sensors :) You can't expect it to magically work the same, there is still a lot of ground to be covered before we get a decent live view DSLR. New designs for achieving this will be coming for sure in the next year. If you can't wait, buy a Zigview!

The only reason for 'graininess' is high ISO, IR by itself doesn't affect the image quality (compared to a visible light picture). Set the ISO manually to 200, you'll be using a tripod anyway.

 

The AF sensors in the K100D are very sensitive to IR, the camera will focus very accurately throught the IR filter, use the center spot or selective spot to know where it will be focusing. Adjust everything without the filter, then just put the filter on and let the camera refocus.

 

The K110D can have it's IR filter removed/exchanged, making handheld IR possible at higher shutter speeds than visible light, but that is another matter.

 

About the picture posted by Morgan, it looks like an UV effect to me, that glow on light areas is characteristic of it.

If you use Lithium batteries (1.5v) on the K100D the focusing speed is the same as in the K10. You can't recharge them thought... anyway, neither of them are not well suited to shoot fast action, so the difference is irrelevant.

There is a Codec from pentax that allows you to see the .PEF files on Windows Explorer or whatever. It's only for Windows Vista thought, I don't know if it works on XP.

 

http://www.pentax.co.jp/english/support/digital/rawcodec_vista.html

 

A good (and free) option is to download Picasa, the image manager application from Google. It can open PEF files and render them quite nicely, you might like it. It can even do some post-processing, and you can easily set up an export option to work on PS.

You should do a bit more reading before posting that kind of subject line. People have been posting images online for more than a decade, on flickr or whatever. The problem is that they don't read legal disclaimers - you should know what you're doing before choosing a Creative Commons license, Copyleft, or anything similar.

 

But in this case, the advertising agency messed up. The publisher is responsible for having the model release, not the photographer (unless he is using the picture himself for commercial/exhibition purposes). You only need a model release from the moment you're going to publish the work.

 

From there to saying that everything you post on flickr can be taken by anyone is just ridiculous. If you park your car on the street, anyone can take it too.

Anyone noticed the new ZK line is already for sale?

 

https://photo-shop.zeiss.com/Categories/Objektive/ZK

 

I'm not I consider it cheap/expensive because of the lack of AF. If it's better

than pentax primes it may well be worth it.

 

BTW, why aren't there any 19mm primes (28mm dig) around?

Oh god. You can just skip my last post if you want, I forgot to finish half of the sentences!

 

After more careful reading, looks like the image quality wouldn't improve much with the Sigma 17-70. It's just a tad sharper stopped down, but the vignetting and corner softness are still there. I'd have to get used to having 10mm less, but seems the 16-45 is really a much better option for a proper "upgrade".

 

Time to go shopping. Any advice on cheaper countries to buy in Europe?

 

(I was getting a bit crazy on this, have to try going out with all but the 28mm. This zoom thing is messing up with me. More reach, more reach.)

Thanks for all the answers.d

 

I'd much prefer a zoom as my primary lens. A few years ago I only had the K1000, a 28mm and the standard 50mm. I got lots of good shots, but on countless ocasions I'd be frustrated because I couldn't change lenses on time, or neither of the lenses could give me the view I wanted. I find I'm very often movement/placement restricted, and changing FOV.

 

One thing I didn't mention is I plan to use this lens on travel. The know the advantages of using zoom in this situation are well known.

 

By what I've seen, I don't find the 16-45 enough improvement in image quality to justify the expense, and despite the interesting gain in the wide end, I'd sorely miss the other 10mm. I think I'd be very happy with only a 21 and 70/77 Ltds, but unfortunately that's completely out of question...

 

I might as well just forget this, keep what I have and buy a Sigma 10-20.

 

I think the question right now is, is the Sigma 17-70 or 18-50 EX an improvement over the kit zoom, mostly considering image quality? What would you buy in this position?

 

(btw, I'm accepting money donations! :)

By the analogy William made, if you set the focal length longer than it actually is, the SR system would over-correct the movements, moving the sensor to the other side. That would cause the same or more blur than having it off.

 

_But_, I did the same with a 80-200 lens (always set to 200) and it worked well. Anyone with spare time for some testing?

Here I come with yet another lens question. I'll try to be short!

 

I have a K100D + GX-10 + DA 18-55 and 50-200 (+ some M lenses).

 

The thing is, I want to get rid of the 18-55 (and hopefully of the 50-200 in the

future), because the vignetting really bothers me - I like to shoot wide open -

and the distortion is nothing worth of praise.

 

My first thought, obviously, was to get a DA40 Ltd (I've got around ?300 to

spend, the less the better). Having an almost flat lens is quite attractive, but

for the same money I can get a 35mm f2 with mind-blowing sharpness, wider

aperture and more useful FOV. But by doing that I'd have no walk-around lens and

would be forced to change lenses more often than I'd like to, and I already have

a 28mm prime if I need the sharpness, and a 50mm 1.7 if I need more light.

 

Then, my main options turned to be the Sigma 17-70 f2.8-4.5 or the 18-50 EX

f2.8. Both are selling for the same price. I'm completely lost on which would

have better use. I like the overlapping of the 17-70 with my SA50-200 and the

longer end, but having a constant aperture would be nice. At some point I

considered the Tamron 28-75, it's much more sharp (photozone test) than the

others at every focal lenght, and looks great wide open, but having a 42mm

widest angle is not in question...

 

Anyone has got comparison shots between the 17-70 and the 18-50? If the image

quality is the same I'd give the fixed aperture up for more reach and just raise

the ISO.

 

Sorry for my english and indecision.