arie_vandervelden1

<p>Samyang 24/1.4?</p>

<p>I own the Sigma and I like it a lot.</p>

An ultrawide, a macro lens, and a telephoto lens.

<p>Buy some batteries from sterlingtek.com</p>

<p>They are good quality and a fraction of the cost of Canon batteries.</p>

<p>I say: go for it! Lightweight is nice, but going heavy is okay too. Besides, aside from your camera you don't need to bring much else.</p>

<p>I disagree with getting a photo backpack. Photo backpacks scream Steal Me. Get padded cases for the body and lenses, and put these inside your scruffy-looking backpack. </p>

<p>I suggest purchasing a Tamron 17-50/2.8 non-VC</p>

<p>At 22 mm and stopped down a bit, it's crazy sharp and virtually distortion-free. It's a nice lens to add to the arsenal. I like mine.</p>

<p>Another option is 50/1.8 plus a pano head, then stitch.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I've noticed that a lot, dare I say it most seem to be set up around a Canon 5D/1DS set up.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Not true. I see just as many 'togs shoot D700/D800/D3/D4. </p>

<p>I'd say the field is pretty evenly split. From those who use an entry-level DSLR as a point-n-shoot, all the way to those who feed their families with their work.</p>

<p>85/1.8 or 100/2</p>

<p>http://www.molendatabase.nl/nederland/index_e.php</p>

<p>If you're driving from Schiphol to Eindhoven, consider stopping by Kinderdijk. There's 19 mills in close proximity.</p>

<p>For photogenic towns, stop by Delft, Leiden, Dordrecht, or Haarlem. The main tulip-growing region is south of Haarlem, near Sassenheim and Lisse.</p>

<p>Another vote for 15-85. Indoors, just lean it on something or use a mini tripod.</p>

<p>By all means, try a film camera. They are very cheap these days. The notion that "canon 35mm ... do not seem to have a really good reputation" is simply not true. Canon made some excellent film cameras.</p>

<p>You should be able to pick up a film Rebel for about $25, or an A2E or Elan 7 for about $50-$75. Try www.keh.com Pair with a $120 EF 50/1.8 and you're good to go. It's the classic artsy retro setup. All EF lenses for Canon EOS gear are compatible with Canon digital so no worries there. Enjoy - film is fun.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.keh.com/camera/Canon-Digital-Non-Mfg-Zoom-Lenses/1/sku-DC099990867220?r=FE">Here's a promaster 12-24/4 (rebranded Tokina) for $325</a></p>

 

<p>Hwo about 17/4, 24-70/2.8, and 50/1.4</p>

<p>Look for a used Tokina 12-24 or Tamron 11-18</p>

<p>no</p>

<p><em>I heard it is bad for sports</em><br>

No, actually it's a very good sports lens in bright daylight. Low light, forget it.<br>

<em> and is a bit soft on the 250 end</em><br>

Pretty sharp actually<em><br /></em><br>

<em> and soft on the edges on all lengths</em><br>

Who cares? Don't put your subject right at the edges. In all the edges are pretty good. I've printed photos to 24"x36" taken with this lens with good results.</p>

<p>I'd keep the 55-250. It's a handy lens. However for your purposes I suggest looking at a hotshoe flash. It'll cost a bit more than $100, but it'll make a lot of difference. Other gadgets to consider are a reflector ($40), EF 50/1.8 ($120) or 40/2.8 ($200)</p>

<p>I have never reformatted a card, never had a failure. I doubt if reformatting does much to prevent failures.</p>

<p>I have put USB memory sticks through the washer. They appeared to survive without damage. However each one of those failed a few months afterward. So if a card gets wet, I suggest uploading your shots and then tossing out the card.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8b-N28eG2go">These are the Daves I know.</a></p>

<p>Before you plunk down your hard-earned cash for one of those f1.2 L lenses, be sure to check out Sigma 50/1.4 and Sigma 85/1.4</p>

<p>Drebel + Tamron 17-50/2.8 and maybe add a fast prime in the future, once you know the focal length you need.</p>

<p>Yes indeed. In this case ambient exposure doesn't matter. Your bounced flash is going to fill the entire room. </p>

<p>Suppose you were in a very large hall and you used the above settings (underexposed from ambient) then the background (distant parts of the hall not lit by the flash) would be underexposed, but the flash will light foreground correctly irregardless of exposure (unless it runs out of power).</p>

<p>However in your case everything is foreground, lit by flash. So exposure is not important - just think of aperture needed (dof) and shutterspeed needed to freeze motion.</p>

<p>430EX2 should be plenty of power. Just be sure to use M. Other modes will meter for ambient, which is pointless if the flash is your main light source. Use the above settings and let the flash do its thing.</p>

<p>How about: Manual mode, iso 200 or 400, f/4 to f/5.6, 1/90 or 1/125 s, and hotshoe flash bounced off of the wall behind you.</p>

<p>As for focus, be sure to stop down for sufficient dof. I often use center-point-only, then focus-recompose.</p>

<p>Edit to add: Stephen you beat me to the answer</p>

<p>Does she have a hotshoe flash? IMO this should be the first order of business. Fast lenses are nice, but they have shallow depth-of-field making it difficult to shoot groups of people. A hotshoe flash with the kit lens will work just great for events. Bounced or diffused light from a hotshoe flash is vastly superior to the light of a pop-up flash, and in all will improve image quality the most. Add a 50/1.8 or 40/2.8 or 85/1.8 in the future, but get the flash first.</p>

<p>FWIW, 85 mm for indoor events is not too long. It's perfect for larger venues, e.g. dance, stage performances and plays, speeches, wedding ceremonies, recitals, or indoor sports like basketball or volleyball.</p>

<p>Which lenses did you like on your Nikon camera?</p>

<p>What Marcus said. I too have an XTi (as well as a 7D) and I've printed to 24"x36" on canvas and 13"x19" on paper with great results. The issue is likely poor lenses, poor technique, and/or poor lighting. Not the camera body.</p>