arie_vandervelden1

<p>Set the camera to M.<br>

On your camera body, dial in the aperture you want for desired DOF (e.g. f/5.6 or f/8)<br /> Dial in the shutterspeed. Lower shutterspeeds will give you more background exposure, but risks blur due to shake.<br /> Dial in the ISO. Higher ISO will give you more background exposure, but will give you more noise.<br /> Let the flash do its thing with ETTL. Given the settings above it will put out the necessary flash power for correct foreground exposure. There's no need to go through the menus on the flash.<br /> Start shooting. If you find the background is too dark or bright, then adjust the shutterspeed and ISO on the camera body. If you find the foreground is too dark or bright, then set a flash exposure compensation. This can also be done on camera (e.g. Q button).<br>

Note that a narrow aperture will cost you light, both ambient (background) and flash (foreground) so that your flash will have to work harder with increased power.</p>

<p>http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/canon_ef_24_105mm_f4_l_is_ii_usm_review/<br>

Your picture of the orchid vendor is really nice. Awesome shot.</p>

<p>You should also consider the new Tamron 85/1.8 VC<br>

Sigma has announced a new 85/1.4 but it'll be a little above budget.</p>

<p>Get the 50/1.8 and the 10-18.</p>

<p>You are too early for tulips. But the daffodils and hyacinths are out in full force right now.</p>

<p>Get a a hotshoe flash.</p>

<p>How about a used 70-200/4L non-IS</p>

<p>For soccer, I'd upgrade from the 75-300</p>

<p>Note that the 5Ds r does not shoot film.</p>

<p>Sigma 17-70/2.8-4 macro</p>

<p>Looks like this lens fits in-between the pro-grade Canon 100-400L, Nikon 80-400, and Sigma 150-600 sport, and the consumer-grade Tamron 150-600 and Sigma 150-600 contemporary. Lots of choice these days!</p>

<p>What's your budget? What subjects do you like to shoot?</p>

<p>Forget about distance scales. Start using live-view for manual focusing.</p>

<p>60D, 85/1.8 (if you already have 18-55), and a hotshoe flash (e.g. 430EX) with tilt and swivel.</p>

<p>I think you have to decide what you're most serious about. If you are passionate about birds and wildlife, then by all means go for the Sigma 150-500. However you say you're interested in making a buck from photography, and you'll be missing the 56-149 mm range which is crucial for portraiture (which is where the money is).</p>

<p>My suggestion is to get the 60D, which leaves more money for glass.</p>

<p>Now for a standard zoom. You can go with the 18-55 kit lens. Or how about Canon 15-85 IS. Yes it's expensive (800 USD) but it's probably the best travel and general-purpose zoom lens out there. Personally I went with Tamron 17-50/2.8 non-VC (500 USD). Mine is deadly sharp. I have carried mine to dozens of countries, deserts, jungles, multi-day ski trips at -20C and colder, and it keeps on ticking.</p>

<p>Telephoto. Tamron 70-300 VC is certainly a good choice. I have a Canon 55-250 IS and it is a very good lens and superb value. The new STM model is supposed to be even better.</p>

<p>I like shooting wildlife and one of my first purchases was a good macro lens. I went with Tamron 90/2.8 (earlier model, before the new VC model came out). It is one of my favorite lenses, and some of my most cherished photos were taken with it. It also doubles as an excellent portrait lens. This lens has taught me a lot about photography. Other excellent macro options are Canon 60/2.8, Sigma 70/2.8, and Canon 100/2.8 non-IS.</p>

<p>Note that any of the lens combos I suggest here are very good options both for travel and commercial aspirations. For wildlife - you'll just have to find ways to get yourself a little bit closer!</p>

<p>If you end up getting two slow zooms (e.g. 18-55 and 70-300) then be sure to get a prime, even if it's just a 50/1.8. Else you'll be missing out on a big aspect of DSLR photography. Good luck!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I meant to say aspen, not poplar</p>

<p>The wildflowers will be dead, but you will be in time to see fall foliage.</p>

<p>First are the alpine larches (Larix Lyalli) which grow at treeline. They are prolific near Banff and Lake Louise, but they don't grow north of Bow Summit. Try hiking to Larch Valley near Lake Louise, Healy Pass near Banff, or Highwood Pass in Kananaskis.</p>

<p>In the valleys, the poplars may be turning colour. Try around Banff and Jasper townsites (lowest elevations).</p>

<p>Your photography guide is Darwin Wiggett's "how to photograph the Canadian Rockies". This should give you lots of ideas about places to go. </p>

<p>Camping - don't miss camping at the Columbia Icefield. It'll be cold (bring warm gear) but sunrise here is spectacular. Takkakaw Falls in Yoho Valley is also a nice spot.</p>

<p>Lodging - for places in Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper just book through a major booking site. There are also some nice backcountry lodges: for example, Shadow Lake, Num-Ti-Jah, Skoki, Lake O'Hara, Assiniboine, Tonquin Valley. If you can, treat yourself to one of these.</p>

<p>Enjoy!</p>

<p>I'd get a 17-40. Buy one used - lots of people are selling them right now because a 16-35/4 IS has been announced. Then save up for a 70-200. Your 50/1.8 will cover the middle of the range.</p>

<p>Yes the snow should be gone off of the roads, so no need for a 4x4. Unless there is a nasty storm in which case there's no point in heading out anyways. There will be snow in the ditches in the high country. The low valleys will be melted out, and a few hiking trails will be open.</p>

<p>No, no good for pictures. Leave your camera at home when you go.</p>

<p>This isn't about camera exposure metering. You're shooting manual anyways. Try changing the flash metering mode.</p>

<p>Try setting the flash metering mode to Average instead of Evaluative</p>

<p>Watch for lens flare</p>

<p>Hello Jeff,</p>

<p>Yes in February Banff is snow-covered right down to valley bottom.</p>

<p>I hope you like skiing! There is some wonderful downhill and xc skiing in Banff. Good opportunities for sports photography.</p>

<p>Most lakes will be frozen and snow-covered, and as such are not very photogenic for landscape photography. You may find better photos at river edges and open creeks. Also, with a bit of luck you may find some open water at lakes. Try looking for frozen waterfalls (e.g. Johnson Canyon).</p>

<p>Banff can be very photogenic in winter when the sun is shining and the sky is blue. When it is overcast or snowing the photo ops become much more limited.</p>

<p>How about Sigma 18-35/1.8 on one camera and Sigma 50-135/2.8 OS on the other</p>