yongfei
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Posts posted by yongfei
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You can buy a few Exakta 66 schneider lenses 60/80/150 and try them via an adaptor. It is much cheapter than switching to a Rollei AF.
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> I'm not questioning the quality of the work, I just wanted to see if the price was in line since this was my first time taking it in.
No Jeff, what you really need to question is the necessity of those performed "services". If really needed, then ok. If not, then you need to talk to them.
At least, bring in the 150mm and let them restore it to the original condition (fix it) for free. You deserve it. Take care.
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Jeff, did you purchase the camera, lens etc brand new? How many rolls did you take so far? If not many, then those services are not necessary at all.
Obviously you are unhappy. Go back and talk to the store manager. I am sure they will do something for you, because according to the expert from Zeiss, they should not replace your spring at all. So they should at least refund you the spring + labor charge.
BTW, please verify your film loading procedure. I got overlapping films too until I read the instruction. The film should go under a film plate while loading, otherwise you may get an overlap.
Anyway, talk to the store first. And let us know what they say.
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Jeff,
Stop reading. Pick up the phone, and call those guys. Tell them you have been ripped off. At least ask them for a discount. If you have a legal service, have your lawyer talk to them. You should get some money back.
It sounds rude, but it is the right thing to do if what you said here is true. Good luck.
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Luke, you will be fine if you use the equipment (body) you are familiar with. Don't try too many techniques on wedding. Don't switch ISO or other fancy setups. Keep it simple. Have a backup plan.
Of course, you can rent a 28-70/2.8. But not digital camera if you are not familiar with it.
You only need to take normal picture to satisfy them.
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Nice discussion. My used 35/1.4 ASPH comes with a shade and its cap only. No normal lens cap.
I obsessed this issue for a while. The best solution is to have and use everything: shade/cap, filter and normal lens cap.
Use filter/shade or lens cap only for the daily and unimportant occasion. Use shade with no filter for the night OR important shot. Use cap only if a quick composition is the priority. Seems I am on the right direction. You need to have everything to do everything.
Hint: Shade + filter is the best protection for this lens. I believe I am not obsessing about this expensive lens, but the expensiveness of damaging it.
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Japan sells a model Canon 8200. It is almost identical to 8000, with a MF film holder, and software that recognizes MF film. I tried to locate one in the US, but with no luck.
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According to my research, if the battery dies, TTL version will not fire a flash on hot shoe(or will it still fire thru X sync?). But M6 Classic can still fire even without a battery.
I just bought a Classic based on this.
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Here is my path for MF, I still have all of them:
1. Brand new Hasselblad 501 80mm kit 3 years ago.
2. Used Mamiya 6 75mm + 150mm > 1 yr
3. Hartblei 88CM body from Ebay (no problem so far) Last year
4. Exakta 66II MLU + 30, 45, 60, 80Xenotar, 120, 180, 300. Beautiful pictures. But camera needs repair for spacing problem. I will send it to Baierfoto to install a spacing control unit.
If you are not professional, trying to fix a camera is part of the fun. Maybe cheaper than actually using it because you don't shoot a lot with it... I like both Hartblei and Exakta for the lens system. I will take Hassie as a backup, or do fill-in flash.
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Evan,
I didn't ask about the credit card. Maybe no. He did say they can take USD. And they do mail order. So it seems the only problem is how to get the money to the store. You can discuss it with the store. Maybe ask your relative living in China to help. Then you can fax your mailing address (label) to the store for shipping.
I am also very curious how it works. Since I am now in the US, I have the same payment issue. Besides, I don't have a Hasselblad 200/2000. So if you do get one, please report back to us.
BTW, here is another store picture showing a P6 300mm on Hasselblad. Can be used to infinity. http://www.beijinglt.net/eBusiness/GB/product_detail.asp?catalogid=8&productid=12
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BeijingLT's address/phone is at its home page: http://www.beijinglt.com.cn
I called the designer Mr Cai (8610-64058133) tonight. He provided the following information:
- This ring works for both P6 and Kiev 88 mount;
- You have to specify the focal length for each ring. Specific 180mm, 300mm rings are also available at the same price.
- US Dollar can be used, but they don't speak English. So you have to find a Chinese intepreter to help you with the transaction.
I may go to Beijing next year, so I will definitely go there and take a look, and I'll post back further findings here. For those of you who have Hasselblad 200, it is definitely a good way to go...
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The following is a translation for the adapter on Beijing Light's website:
"Format:120 Price: 300RMB Condition: Brand new Origin: China
Description: This is a DIY adapter for Hasselblad. After adaption, it is able to focus to infinity.
*Note: It can no longer use the original rear UV. But lens can be used normally and there will be no loss of image quality."
I don't have first-hand experience. But last time I called, the sales told me the adapter can be user-installed or uninstalled with a simple tool. Other lenses (such as 120mm, 180mm) can also be adapted. They show it with a 500 because they don't have a 200 in hand. They pointed out it is even useful for night shot with a 500:)
I can't find any additional user experience on Chinese user group beside this website. But Beijing LT is a good store located in Beijing, specialized in P6 system...
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> where can I order it, either from Europe or from the USA ?
from China. One camera store has made an adapter ring. The cost is about $40 for the ring. But I am not sure if it will work on 200. I bought a Hartblei instead for the Pentacon 6 lenses.
See a picture at http://www.beijinglt.net/eBusiness/GB/product_detail.asp?catalogid=8&productid=10
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Jose, if the shutter is stuck due to lack of use, you may keep on pressing the shutter for a few more times. Maybe it can fully open by itself later thru continuous use. If not, then look for service.
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I have a Minilux, wonderful camera! I will definitely get this one after a few years, when the price goes down a little bit.
This is a dream camera for taking travel slides. With 40mm, there is no need for 35mm AND 50mm. Simply stunning design for a P&S...
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Man! You have discovered him on your own!
Gao Lei is a very famous bbs contributer at a Chinese photo forum http://www.cameraunion.com
For the love of photography, he left China and went to France to study photography. His style is very powerful indeed. He has the passion and technical skill to become a great photographer. His photos have souls.
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Todd, look at the pink faces of your digital picture. This is one of the digital signatures that I can't live with...
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I think Marc's comment is very helpful.
In fact, I just got my Sunpak 120JTTL + Std module to go with my Mamiya 6. It works perfectly. I did a lot of "research" on a suitable flash. And my conclusion is that, for flexibility, power, and cost in bare flash game, the Sunpak 120 is the best.
I tested the Sunpak bare flash on my Nikon N90S camera in auto mode. The even light is very beautiful. I would prefer it to my SB28 for a portable, "mini-studio" set up...
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I can clearly see the difference between sivler C and T* under high key (white) studio back lighting. Anybody wants a C from me?
>Would Mr. Felischer be willing to stake his reputation on a a/b >comparison between equivalent pictures taken with silver "C" single >coated lenses and the most current versions of the same thing? >Not "into the sun" shots; just normal photos with proper lens >shades?
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Well, this is rather a question. Can you provide any detail on how do you do the modification for the fisheye and Zeiss 180/2.8?
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To be fair, I think he talks about the high key color, not sharpness...
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For recent two years, I've been searching for a perfect amateur
camera system. Now I am quite sure that there is no single camera
system that can serve all purpose. At current technology, as long as
Windows coming out a new operating system every 3 years, digital is
too expensive. I won't go into details.
<p>
Anyway, if I want to shoot concert, formal meetings, hand-hold,
low-light, poor Third-world life, etc., there is nothing technically
better than Leica M in the 35mm format, nothing that has a better
balance between flexibility and quality in all camera systems,
Rolleiflex 2.8 included.
<p>
Convenience is not an issue. Leica has made itself the way, the Tao,
the Logo, the Logos, the Lotus of photography. I know that I need
practice to master the photography art. Of course I can hit a "Play"
button to listen to music, or I can learn to play a fussy piano. It's
my choice, and I really need both.
<p>
Can somebody tell me how to "take" a concert picture with a SLR or
point-shoot, without being a paparrazi? Digial SLR doesn't help here
either because it also has a clicking, vibrating mirror. So maybe a
mirror-lockup with tripod? :-)
<p>
Lots of people complaining Leica is expensive, but best quality only
comes at a price. Harvard tuition is way overpriced in my opinion, and
I probably can't tell any difference between a state-university and
Harvard graduate; Oh, how about that silly, diamond wedding ring, I
can't tell a difference between a glass and a diamond, why those
stupid bride won't buy a cheap glass instead? How many of you have a
$5000 sofa "system" in house? >$30,000 car in garage? How about a
$200,000 home with a $2000 monthly mortage payment? Why don't just buy
a $150,000 house and get all Leica, Hasselblad, Linhof, monolights,
darkroom, photo studio all under my smaller roof? I'm on the way
doing that....
<p>
My conclusion: I can skip other luxury items in life to get any camera
system I want. And I really need a Leica M in some occasion. Of
course, I can let my eye be the camera and my memory be the film. But
when I bring a Leica M to a concert, a museum, I know that I'll make a
real picture. In those situation, only Leica M will make it....
<p>
Again, can somebody tell me how to make a picture technically as good
as Leica M's in a classical concert, with a SLR or a digital whatever?
In other words, is there any other camera system that is quiter,
quicker to respond, more hand-hold friendly, easy, accurate to focus
in darkness, and with a >50 years service life?
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I guess Glenn is right. In "make", it is an "I" and "you" caring
relationship. "Take", it means I take something from you. Humanity,
humanity, humanity.
<p>
Also, make means trying to put everything together. Take means
getting a piece from the whole. So make is adding, take is
substracting.
New info on Zeiss Rangefinder
in Leica and Rangefinders
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