chas_frady
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Posts posted by chas_frady
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<p>I am retiring from making b/w prints from now on, and only make 5x7 color photos as HP's latest HP Premium Plus paper tends to crinkle when making 8x10's for some reason. It is very annoying and almost criminal that HP (and other printer makers) can't keep drivers over generations of printers and operating systems so we can continue to use our beloved old machines and get the results we always had.</p>
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<p>I don't really understand the comment about "crinkling". I use an HP8750 and have had no such problems. I know that I'm evading/avoiding the issues of HP's non-support for this generation of printer and Windows 7 by staying with WinXP. But crinkling?</p>
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<p>Tremendous amount of valuable info to be found here:</p>
<p>http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=902973</p>
<p>BTW... I'm also a licensed RE Broker in my home state. I would hire a professional rather than do it yourself.</p>
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<p>Ditto with any edits I make.</p>
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<p>Not exactly true... In Photoshop, you can use NIK filters in Smart Filter mode. The NIK website has many training videos to view and daily free live webinars.</p>
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<p>Check to see what the default system profile is. Maybe the custom calibration profile is not loading.</p>
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<p><strong>...Better yet </strong>is to not use any preset modes on the monitor at all and just adjust the luminosity of the monitor to get desired luminance & then allow the profiler to do the rest...</p>
<p>...I recently purchased a ColorMunki, so I'l try profiling the U2711 using that. Andrew Rodney has previously suggested that a spectrophotometer is the only to ensure proper profiling of a wide-gamut monitor that doesn't come with a paired colorimeter, so I have higher hopes for the ColorMunki...</p>
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<p>This says it all.</p>
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<p>Anyone have any experience calibrating the Dell UltraSharp U2311H, or suggestions for better alternatives at a roughly similar price?</p>
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<p>Dan, the Dell U2311h is a very competent entry level monitor. It's a "normal gamut" display and your EyeOne Display 2 will do a fine job of calibrating it. Your calibration will be at the video card level.</p>
<p>When you're ready to invest in a pro level monitor, please take andrews advice and consider the Spectraview II monitors from NEC.</p>
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<p>Andrew, I'm suspecting that the OP is using a different method/workflow for printing B&W from the HP printer we both own. All my B&W conversions stay as RGB files, I don/t convert to grayscale. I use HP's recommended print method for B&W, which is to allow the printer to do the color management. Yes, I know that color ink is being used in addition to the black and grays.</p>
<p>I've compared my workflow to that of other HP 8750 users and the fans of this printer use the same workflow as I do.</p>
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<p>I don't see how a custom profile will help, because I only use the gray photo cartridge.</p>
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<p>Why not? I know that some custom profile providers are doing profiles for B&W printing.</p>
<p>The thing to remember about this HP 8750 is even though it has a three-tone photo gray cartridge, when printing B&W, it still may blend color ink in as needed. If you are printing with the color carts removed or not selecting "Grayscale/High Quality", I would expect you to have a color cast.</p>
<p>This is a long discontinued printer, not cost effective, and was never very popular when it was a current model. Why not end your frustration and just get an Epson 3880?</p>
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<p>Chas, the Epson R1800/R1900 is a pigment printer that's capable of good B&W results with third party MIS inks. I have the R1800.</p>
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<p>Yes, my mistake about the pigment ink, but I was thinking about the general B&W output with the OEM ink.</p>
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<p>Let me reiterate: is there a way to eliminate color cast for neutral-tone B&W on the HP 8750 WITHOUT having to run out and buy a new printer?</p>
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<p>I still have to insist that using HP's recommended paper and OEM ink, there is NO color cast and B&W prints are neutral. That said... the inkset of the HP 8750 is extremely finicky. I just did some test prints with a sampler pack of assorted papers from Red River and the B&W was horrific. If I want neutral B&W, I'm very much restricted to using HP Premium Plus Photo Paper.</p>
<p>One other option is to try a custom profile for B&W.</p>
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<p>Can that HP be converted to use MIS inks? .</p>
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<p>I don't think so, as this "venerable" model uses 3 cartridges, with 3 colors each, for a total of 9. What makes this model appealing to me is the third cart is a photo gray with black, medium gray and light gray inks. So the B&W output is much better than comparable dye ink models like the Epson R1900 or Canon Pixma Pro 9000 mkII. The severe downside is the low capacity tanks and old style tricolor cartridges.</p>
<p>I'm just a low output hobbyist printer, so the negative points don't bother me at all. And I've never experienced the issues that the OP is describing.</p>
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<p>There's very little support for this dye ink printer among the third party paper suppliers. Most only provide profiles for the B9180 and B8850, both using pigment ink. Ilford provides profiles for its swellable dye ink papers (Galerie Classic), but not for the Gold Fiber Silk.</p>
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<p>Use the StudioMatch function in Spyder3 Elite v.4 to match the two monitors. The DataColor website has a detailed video tutorial which explains how to do this.</p>
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<p>Just an afterthought... I do my B&W conversions with NIK Silver Efex Pro. My B&W photos are 16bit TIFs in Adobe RGB and that's how I send them to the printer.</p>
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<p>I also use the HP 8750 and have no problems with B&W on HP PPP. I print by the same method you describe. I have 3 photos displayed near a window and they are lit by direct daylight for several hours a day. No sign of metamerism or fading after one year.</p>
<p>I also print on Ilford Galerie Classic Pearl, but prefer the HP PPP for B&W.</p>
<p>Like you, I feel no need to change printer/ink/media as long as the 8750 is still printing perfectly with no clogging.</p>
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<p>I'd go with the T1i over the XS, but buy the body only. I actually have the 55-250 and it's quite a decent lens for the price. But... there are so many nearly new used ones on the market for half the retail price that it doesn't make sense to buy new. As your going pro and doing portraits, you may want to look for a good prime lens longer than the "nifty 50".</p>
<p>Starting out, you can find a wealth of gently used equipment sold by people stepping up from the basics to the next level. Shop on Craigslist, eBay, and the for sale sections of photography forums.</p>
<p>Other, less expensive options can be found from Tamron or Sigma.</p>
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<p>Maybe for your next lens, you'll want something longer to get you back farther from the subject.</p>
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<p>Lee, I don't understand your problem with white point. You should start with all your monitor settings set to the factory defaults. The only adjustment you would make on the monitor is to the Brightness, which is the backlight. Not having a contrast adjustment is irrelevant. In the Spyder3 Pro software, select 6500k and gamma 2.2.</p>
<p>The Dell WFP monitors usually can be calibrated quite accurately. Some have PVA display panels. I've always had good experiences with them using Spyder products.</p>
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<p>Since you have Adobe Camera Raw, have you tried doing your B&W conversion on the original unconverted raw file? Adobe Camera Raw does a fine job.</p>
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<p>I didn't notice any major noticeable change to the <strong>appearance </strong>of color in the previews in that video. Histogram data? Yes.</p>
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<p>Where in the video does he discuss a color shift going from space to space?</p>
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<p>You're right. Looks like I misinterpreted it. Doesn't really affect me though, as I never edit in sRGB.</p>
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<p>Never seen either, can you provide a link or files that would demonstrate this?</p>
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<p>http://www.jhpvideotutorials.com/tutorials/photoshop/cs5_setup_1b.html</p>
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<p>Is ACR set up to save out in a color space different from the one your camera is set on? Going from AdobeRGB to sRGB will affect color sometimes.</p>
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<p> I recently saw a demonstration of this phenomenon on some color management website. Changing from Adobe RGB to sRGB in the ACR settings caused little if any color shifts, but going from ProPhoto RGB to sRGB caused major noticeable color changes.</p>
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<p>Lynn... Sounds like you're using a very old calibration device and software. I would dump it and invest in the X-Rite EyeOne Display 2 or the DataColor Spyder3 Elite.</p>
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<p>Hmmm, I've never had those problems.</p>
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<p>I don't have them either, presumably because I calibrate my monitor to within a couple hundred degrees of the native white and don't touch the RGB controls.</p>
Photoshop Auto Color option
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted