chas_frady

<p>Another one for X-Rite EyeOne Display 2. I've seen a few web seminars from X-Rite where the presenter says you can install and use the software on an unlimited number of computers (for personal use).</p>

<p>Lisa, keep in mind that the luminance value of 120cd/m2 is only a starting point. I actually have a similar Dell monitor and I found 120cd/m2 to be a good luminance value for MY purposes, mostly printing to my own photo printer. But the optimal luminance value is largely influenced by the ambient light conditions in YOUR work environment. You may need to step up to a higher luminance level. But I don't 'recommend using the U2311h at lower than 110cd/m2... and even that is probably pushing it too far.</p>

<p>http://www.imagescience.com.au/kb/questions/142/How+To+Calibrate+An+NEC+Monitor+With+SpectraView+II</p>

<p>Best practice with the Dell U2311 for general digital photography use, is use the preset offered by the newest Spyder3 Pro software (ver.4). It includes 120cd/m2 luminance, 2.2 gamma, and 6500k white point.</p>

<p>Start by resetting your monitor to factory default settings. Your PC's video card should be reset to defaults also. Then lower the Brightness value to 30. Leave all other monitor settings as is.</p>

<p>Now run the Spyder3 software, but don't change any monitor settings. Just let the software do its work to measure your monitor's performance and create a profile.</p>

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<p>This filter is incredible. I have not found any method in PS <strong>or Raw</strong> that will do what it does with such ease.</p>

 

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<p>Agreed... This is my most used tonal correction tool. I consider myself very competent in Photoshop, but the NIK filters make everything so much easier, and in a fraction of the time.</p>

<p>That particular filter has two aspects to it: Contrast and Color Cast Correction. This really is a job for a raw editor.</p>

<p>Loads of info and help here:</p>

<p>http://photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=18</p>

<p>Whichever lens you choose... buy it used.</p>

<p>I personally turn off the recalibration reminder function of any display calibration software I'm using. And when the computer is booting up, I don't watch the software load the profile and don't view or edit pictures until the monitor has had about an hour to warm up and stabilize.</p>

<p>I typically recalibrate every 5-6 weeks, but I'm not obsessive about it. I DO recalibrate before editing any new shoot.</p>

<p>I would at minimum install DPP and the EOS Utility. It's best to download the very newest version from Canon's website. Insert your install disk in the drive, but don't install from it... Install the downloaded updater files.</p>

<p>http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/eos_slr_camera_systems/eos_digital_slr_cameras/eos_rebel_t3i_18_55mm_is_ii_kit</p>

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<p>My question is how does Nik silver efex compare to other programes for creating b/w images...</p>

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<p>Among plug-in type BW convertors, I'd rank NIK Silver Efex Pro among the very best. I use it for almost all my B&W work. My B&W prints are neutral, with rich blacks, smooth gradients, and detailed shadow regions.</p>

<p>That said, there is nothing you can do with Silver Efex that can't be done with Photoshop alone. And better.</p>

<p>I agree completely with Jay's comments and advice to buy used. Almost every piece of equipment I own is used, usually purchased from those who bought and never used the equipment. I have saved thousands of dollars buying barely used lenses.</p>

<p>Regarding whether an 18-55 is wide enough... If you do any type of real estate or architectural photography, you'll want something a bit wider.</p>

<p>Harry, press your finger (lightly) on the screen and see what the pressure does to an LCD.</p>

<p>I use NIK SilverEfex Pro and toning is the easiest thing to do. What's the problem? You can also tone images with NIK's ColorEfex Pro or Viveza. Have you tried watching any of the many tutorial videos on the NIK website?</p>

<p>That's a common Canon paper and you already have the "canned" icc profile installed. You should be able to buy this paper from any local office supply store. RTFM.</p>

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<p><strong>A. </strong>Set your calibration software to save the icc profile in v2 format and recalibrate your screen.<br /> <strong> </strong><br /> <strong>B. </strong>What if your calibration software doesn't offer that option? (this is my case)</p>

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<p>I'm confused... Most of the information you've recently discovered about Firefox is old news, but you're saying that your display calibration software ONLY creates v.4 profiles? I re-read your post but couldn't find mention of the name of this software. Typical consumer software like DataColor Spyder3 Pro default to v.2 profiles.</p>

<p>And... Firefox 4 is soon to be released and they say it WILL have support for v.4 profiles.</p>

<p>Yeah, U2311h is an 8bit normal gamut monitor. The U2410 is a wide gamut display and has a 12bit internal LUT. The catch is, the U2410 cannot be internally hardware calibrated .</p>

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<p>is the U2311 supposed to be the replacement for the fabled 2209WA?</p>

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<p>Apparently. I'm still using the "fabled" monitor and it lives up to it's fabled reputation. But the market is demanding more 16:9 aspect ratio displays. </p>

<p>Wrong model. What you want is the Dell U2311h, which has an IPS display panel. $249 USD, free shipping.</p>

<p>The Canon 9000 mkII is not an upgrade from the HP B8850... In fact, it's a significant step down. I'd compare the B8850 with the Epson R2880, so the 3880 is a step up.</p>

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<p>But with this particular monitor, is it advised to use SpectraView or will i1D2 will do fine?</p>

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<p>It's advisable to use the NEC branded puck included with the full Spectraview II kit as it is specifically tuned to calibrate NEC's wide gamut monitors. The standard X-Rite iOne Display v2 puck will also work, but I've read that the white point may be off.</p>

<p>Jim, my best suggestion is to relegate the AIO to office use and invest in a dedicated photo printer with multiple gray inks</p>

<p>Ellis and Adam... Please read this (Thanks to Andrew!):</p>

<p>http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/why_are_my_prints_too_dark.shtml</p>

<p>The NECs are sold with or without the Spectraview II kit for an obvious reason... What if you are buying an additional NEC monitor and already have the Spectraview II kit?</p>

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<p>The adjustment needed was a Color Management>Devices setting. I added and changed the default ICC Profile to Nikon Adobe RGB.</p>

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<p>What!? By my understanding, the current HP AIO devices are optimized for HP Advanced Photo paper. For B&W printing, you should be allowing the printer to control the color management and selecting Grayscale/High Quality.</p>

<p>For color prints, you should allow the printing application to control the color management and you must select the correct print-paper-ink profile. The HP printer driver should automatically disable printer color management when you print from another application.</p>

<p>If you use any other paper besides the recommend HP type, you'll have to get an ICC profile specific to your printer model and the paper type.</p>