mark1616

Thanks guys, I will check out everything :)

 

I will have the nifty fifty with me and the Sigma 24-70mm f2.8, although neither are the fastest to focus.

Hi all,

 

I'm going to be be shooting a gymnastics event in 3 weekends time and this is

not something I've covered before. They only have 2 events there so looking for

suggestions.

 

The events covered are the floor and the vault....... where are the best places

to stand, what should I be looking for in the shot, and anything else you can

think of?

 

I will be working with the 1D mkIII, and choice of Canon 85mm f1.8, Sigma 70-

200mm f2.8 and Sigma 120-300mm f2.8.

 

If you have example shots these will help too.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

Ouch, that sound like fun, was the best man the best man, or did the groom take home the trophy?

and a wedding..... one of the toughest sports ;o)<div></div>

and more field hockey...<div></div>

Field hockey..<div></div>

Field hockey<div></div>

Thanks again Wilson. Over here I have to use Av quite a bit in sports as there is nearly always some cloud about so will give that a bash. With the weddings I'm OK with that as I have more control over positioning so that doesn't worry me.

 

Happy shooting.

Personally I would agree with the 17-40 on the 20D and the 70-200 on the 5D. Where I would not agree is switching the 17-40 for a 17-55mm f2.8 as this is an EF-S lens so will only work with an APS-C sensor and not the FF of the 5D. If you were to look at a new lens then the 24-70mm f2.8L or the 24-105mm f4L would give more options to you.

Thanks Wilson, I had already checked out the latter link you gave which led me to post but had not seen the first. When shooting back lit I guess I just want to meter off of a player to get my exposure in the first place and assuming light is reasonably constant go manual (which I try to do). If I'm having to shoot Av (not a Tv fan as like to control dof etc) how would you suggest metering for this? I have only one match this Saturday as I'm shooting a wedding in the afternoon but want to give this a try if the weather is right.

 

Thanks again.

..<div></div>

.<div></div>

Hi all,

 

After seeing the other recent post I've realised that I'm probably not doing

things the best way when shooting sports (the downside of trying to teach

myself everything). I always assume (probably incorrectly) that shooting with

my back to the sun as much as possible is better than shooting into the sun so

I don't get a silhouette. As this now seems to be incorrect, some times at

least, then what do I need to do differently in settings to shoot with the sun

in front of me? I use either manual or Av. Here are some examples from last

weekend.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark<div></div>

I have only ever shot kitesurfing (including a few shoots with world number 4) and used the 100-400. I would also seriously look at the Sigma 100-300mm f4 as this is a lovely sharp lens and with a 1.4x TC you get a 140-420mm lens that will give as sharp or sharper results than the 100-400mm Canon (depends who you listen to). I would not like to decide on this one as I like both options I've mentioned but would add that you will find zoom very helpful over a prime as they move in on the wave.

It's always a fun event, I do 4 or 5 a year there, but like all sports it is crazy busy. They run non stop all day apart from about 1 hour for lunch (eat and give out business cards) and the time it takes between each batch when they come back down the hill. I try to shoot 3 or 4 locations each event to give the drivers as many angles as possible thus increasing sales.

 

As for the cars, they are fantastic, well looked after and still drivern really hard!

Finish Line<div></div>

Sawbench Corner<div></div>

Something a little different from me, I was covering a local motorsport event.<div></div>

Thanks again guys for the additional info.

Very good info and plenty to look into to make sure that everything is viable. I find it really hard not to jump in both feet straight away but I want to make this work properly so I know it is best to go into this phase with my eyes open.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

LOL for sure, or even using it at a ball game or something, the players will think you are about to take them out.

 

Once you've found the 20k then I think it's time to hit the gym!!

Who needs car anyway when you can have one of these???? ;o)

Thanks Andy and Mark for adding to this, I've found a couple of places that supply and support these so will investigate more with them to work out per print costs in the long run.

 

Mark, Andy had also emailed my and suggested you were one of the most knowledgeable on this subject so really glad you answered.

 

What is the best way to go for software driving this? Also what do you do about power if it really is in the field, I've looked at generators but not really sure what I'm looking at.

 

I'm not making a move in the near future but working out my budget and business plan as well as making more contacts to ensure that the opportunity exists as I like to think it does.

 

If you have any other advice that springs to mind I would love to hear it.

 

Thanks again,

 

Mark

I personally would not rent a 5D if you are used to using a 40D as you will find differences in the way depth of field is controlled which for someone starting out will add confusion. As already mentioned you will be better off with 2 x 20D, 30D or 40D so you have consistency. Also when looking at the lenses if you were running with a 5D you will not be able to use the EF-S lenses such as the 17-55 f2.8 so you need to be aware of that. If you are getting the 17-55 then you would not initially need the 24-70mm f2.8 (for now) as you will need the wider angle of the 17-55.

 

With shooting RAW they are a lot larger than jpg however nearly every wedding shooter uses it (there is one notable exception namely Jeff Ascough). RAW gives you more control over the photos following the shoot and you are also getting more information which is important in the highlights (wedding dress) and the shadows (grooms suit etc). I take 16Gb memory with me for a wedding just to be on the safe side.

What's up with Dye-sub, I was under the impression (possibly incorrectly) that it was the way to go for good results at a good speed? Also if going for an inkjet what are the best options to look at for quality, longevity and cost of printing?

 

Thanks!