marypar4

<p>I appreciate all the input. I agree now with the comment about the tripod. I never realized how much that thing moves until I went out today to shoot in the wind..now I am depressed. I think I may go to my local camera store and see what they recommend. I bought the original one from them ..and it definitely moves about. I also noticed the lens is a bit loose at the connection to the camera... something that may cause a problem as well. I also contacted tamron to see how much it would cost to have them take a look..but I really don't think the lens is the problem...I think it a combination of human error and poor stability at long length. The lens-camera does not respond quickly at f8-10000..my thought was perhaps the cameras speed a bit slow...not sure how that works. The lens locks in..but the cameras speed seems slow to release the shutter..I do know that in very good light the pictures are acceptable which thrills me. I had the very same lens last year which I purchased through AMazon..that was returned do to error messages... As I stated earlier..my question...would a d300s be a better bet with this lens seems to have been answered..no not really. I still am perplexed ..as if your autofocus is quicker..and your frame rate highter..your chances of a sharper images should be greater..well I guess I was wrong! Thanks again for all the great feedback and advice..much appreciate.</p>

 

<p>This second image is a bit better as F9 seems to be the sweet spot. I really was wondering about the D300s to get that AF focused quicker.. but perhaps not going to be that crucial. I have never shot with one so not sure if it will make a huge difference compared to D90...that is my dilemma.</p><div></div>

<p>My tripod is a vanguard carbon ..with a vanguard ballhead.. weight I believe goes to 22lbs..terrific setup..and rock solid. I usually leave the center post down when using this tamron setup to avoid any unnecessary vibration. I keep one hand lightly resting on front of lens . I will include one photo of a hooded merganser. To me this is not that sharp even after some post process.</p><div></div>

<p>I thought about the sigma 120-400 Juan as I heard some nice things about it..also the bigma 150-500 but the Tamron I purchased for $400. At the price I thought I would give it a try as all those lenses need support. I always use a tripod..with this lens as well as holding down the front of the lens ..I do not use mirror flip as it is to slow for what I am shooting. I have been trying F8 through F10 and always shutter over 500 mostly 1000 with ISO at around 400-500 depending on light..I have tried various AF modes..AF-s AF-c with camera set in various setting as in dynamic or single..the main thing I have noticed is the more light I have the better the shot..but too much glare knocks that all out of whack ..so its many throw outs..and even when conditions are perfect..the images are soft and blurry at 500mm..they look almost smeared. Very weird. again..is it camera or lens or both?</p>

<p>I recently purchased a used telephoto from Tamron. I have had it one week. I have literally taken hundreds of shots with this lens trying to find answers.I have used all the techniques available to me after researching how to's on the net regarding this lens. My question is..using a D90 vs D300 with this lens..would I see any difference in sharpness . I am beginning to think the camera I am using my not be quick enough to pick up the some movements of the birds and ducks I am trying to photograph. I am stumped as I have seen some captured nice sharp images with this lens on this site. The subjects are not in flight and not moving that much and my pictures are not acceptable.I am not expecting miracles..just acceptable. Perhaps my standards are too high but I also shoot with a 70-300 vr nikon and love that lens so I not in the $5000 catagory nor can I afford that at the moment. ANy advice would be appreciated.</p>

<p>OLd Squaw-Long Tail duck ..Barneget Inlet in New jersey..went out Sunday to find the harlequin ducks..which winter in New Jersey ..but pleasantly surprise by this lone Old Squaw. Nikon 70-300 vr</p><div></div>

<p>regarding book recommendations..the art of photograhphy..was recommended by a friend. Good book..author bruce barnbaum</p>

<p>I own the zeikos for the D90. I do not use it much because it is quite large making my camera a bit bulky for my present bag. Also, I find the sound of the shutter release..with the grip on a bit tin like. Just me...but I like the shutter sound on the Nikon..and with that grip on it sounds cheap. Everything works great on the grip so no complaints there except the shutter button is a bit difficult to press. never tried the Nikon grip so don't know if it different. I would try the Nikon grip in a store and see if it suits you.</p>

<p>My understanding is that the flash you are seeing is not a flash at all but a signal to the sb600..so don't worry about it..or get yourself a radio commander if you think its sending light to the subject.(which is should not)</p>

<p>I had my hands on one yesterday. It was on reserve for a customer so did not get to shoot with it..but it is small..maybe smaller then my d90..so if you like a chunky feel it will disappoint. I am waiting for the D300s update.</p>

<p>Well its official..there was a mini brawl in my local Best Buy in Bricktwon NJ when two people almost came to blows over the LAST D7000 in the store..I went to take a look at the camera after calling the store ..but I was about 20 minutes too late. Best Buy in NJ is completely sold out of them. I am not sure we are in a recession..given that news!</p>

<p>I have had my D90 for about one year. I used Rockwells settings for a while ..but I like Landscape picture control best with A sharpening..A contrast minus brightening A saturation and zero hue. Must situations this is a nice colorful setting ..for portraits I go back to standard. The picture control and white balance make a huge difference if you shoot jpeg. Trick ..if you throw the camera into live view..and then fiddle with the white balance it gives you a preview in live view of what that setting will do to your image..very cool. My Menu is also a great tool for accessing things quickly.</p>

<p>I have used the 70-300vr with good results..but as Chung states..if the lighting is not nice and bright..you could struggle a bit..it is a fantastic lens in bright light. I think the D90(which I own) is quite capable in most instances..but if you are a sports nut..and this is your love..I think you will eventually have to bite the bullet and go to a D300 or perhaps the new d7000. I use AF-C and dynamic focus on my sports shots(surfing)..and they seem to be ok for my purposes..strickly an amateur. Anyone out on the surf scene doing it professionally is using 2.8 lenses..and fast fast cameras..6fps or faster. I have read the 55-200vr is a bit slow for sports..but nice for other purposes. How about renting one of those 70-200vr lenses to try before you drop $$$ on new camera.</p>

<p>I agree with Pierre? I had used Vivid but found my photos were blown out..and over saturated. I now use either neutral or standard and tweek in photo shop ...it takes a minute..to bump up saturation. I find trial and error is best. I was having lots of problems with red flowers in vivid mode and thats when I changed everything in my picture controls and have not looked back. Portraits also look terrible in vivid mode..along with flowers. Probably landscapes would be ok in vivid.</p>

<p>love the nikon 70-300 vr..some times I want for more..so i use my feet..tried a few third party longer lenses and never really happy with any of them. I do own a sigma 10-20 and love it..so I guess it depends on lens.</p>

<p>Acadia National Park- Bartletts Bay in the Southwest area of the park. Nikon D90/700-300Vr lens.</p><div></div>

<p>I also own the 10-20 sigma..it is a very sharp lens. As an earlier person suggested..google ultra wide angle lenses and read up on how to shoot wide. It is a whole new world..which you should enjoy with landscapes.</p>

<p>I own the 70-300 VR and its well worth the money..its my favorite lens and quite capable in good light. I think the 55-200 will leave you wanting more. At some point you may want to go longer..but then you are getting into a whole new realm. I went that root and came back to my trusty 70-300 which is light enough long enough for most of what I shoot.</p>

<p>I find the AF-on buttom better for more predictable things ..but manual focus would be the only way to get around it if you can't lock in on something in the area where the dogs will run into. Personally I dont' use AF_on that much..I just use AF-C dynamic and hold shutter half way down..and pan allowing the focus to follow the action. Good Luck</p>

<p>I would try white balance seetings of auto and a4 or cloudy and a4..sto start..and then go up from there..taht should ive you nice warm tones..m</p>

<p>If you look at the subjects in the NIkon forum..there is not one person asking about composition. Its a technical forum for the most part. We discuss the tools of the trade rather then what HOW to take a good picture. I have a friend who always calls me for technical advice and photoshop help..cracks me up..because SHE is the one in all the art shows..she has a great EYE..perhaps the two don't go together..right brain left brain thing...I don't know. Just a thought. Certainly there are some wonderful photograhers in this forum..but I have noticed in the my world...the true artist..the ones taking the fabulous pictures .with the visual impact that Robert speaks about...are a bit unremarkable in their technical skills .. in using a camera..or on using photoshop. This new breed of amatuers..have grabbed onto digital and run with it..and they are putting their cameras in semi auto mode and taking some wonderful images. I do think "seeing" can be an aquired talent..but it takes lots of shooting and and perhaps study under someone who has an art background in order to learn the basics. Ian Roberts has a great video out on composition. Its a good starting point..as well as Brenda Tharp and Michael Freeman..two excellent photograhers..who discuss composition at length.</p>

<p>Funny you should ask..I have the D90..my camera club is 90% canon..no lie. SO they have all these great meeting..photo shoots etc..and our poor little Nikon group can't get off the ground. I have held the 40D in my hand..its a beast. I prefer light as I travel in a kayak and bike while I am out and about. I camp and hike as well. For me this was the factor. I have been very happy with the Nikon line . I agree with Cheung. Seeing is everything.These cameras are just a tool...learn it inside out...and then forget about it..and go seek out images that speak to you..if video is a huge issue..buy a Flip and put it in your pocket for those occasions .</p>

<p>Agreed..on choice between 35 an d50 take the 35..I have a 50 and hardly every use it. INfact I am going to sell it and get a 35.</p>

<p>Leslie,<br>

Need vs want..wow we could start a whole new thread on that one. Certainly a wide angle gives a whole new perspective to images. All you have to do is look on flickr..search sigma 10-20 to see . Diffferent strokes for different folks..I like the affect of the wide angle..you may never find a use for this lens which is a personal preference. I like extremes..long teles,macro and wide angles...you may prefer mid range 17-40 or whatever. Pototoes patatoes.</p>

<p>Leslie,<br>

I wondered myself WHY all the hype of the wide angle.."Ultrawides rub the viewer's nose in your subject. Properly used, ultrawides grab your viewer and yank him into the middle of your situation." a quote from KRockwell and its true..they are not so much for landcapes as they are for closer work..and if you ever get a chance to borrow one..you will be hooked. I found I was limited with the 18mm for certain things I wanted to do..it took many of these situations fo me to plop down $500 to purchase one of these specialty lenses..I am happy I did.</p>