elyone

Is there any insurance out there, that will insure smaller amounts than the deal Photo.net has?

Because I am not a pro, I dont need the liability part, and the minimum amount the photo.net deal comes out to is $325/year (Liabilty + Loss).

One cant only do the Loss part and even so, its more than I need.

Some threads mentioned "named item" policy from state farm, however, there too, one needs to take out a home policy FIRST.

I agree with Ralph.

Take any 200mm lens and focus on something. Hold it as steady as you can and you will still notice you are ever so slightly shaking. In order not to see blur, you need to shoot as metioned above at 1/250th or so.

With VR on, the shakeing is noticably less, therefore you can shoot at a lower speed and hence the "gain of a few F stops".

I recently got a panasauras.

What I did was to order just the "Quick change plate adapter" from B&H for the Manfrotto RC2 system that I already use.

So I have one QR plate on the bottom of my pana to quickly connect it to my tripod. Then I have the plate adapter connected to where I am supposed to connect the camera.

Everything remains centered nicely.<div></div>

Induro C014 ? a short review

Posting this here, because this is home for me...

It's very light and collapses to one of the smallest tripods around, thanks to

its 4 sections. 4 sections might be a bad thing, I don?t know yet. See small

4th leg.

Quality wise, this is the most expensive pod I ever owned, so I can't compare

them to Gitzos, however, it seems to be very high quality. Everything turns

smoothly and is well finished. There IS a bit of give when turning the leg

locks, i.e. before it encounters the grooves and lets me make turn the nicely

rubberized large lock handles, but again, I can't compare to another pod. It's

probably needed to let the legs slide easily.

For those not aware, Induro is the USA/Euro band name of Benro, as they also say

on the site, a Chinese company.They have a USA address and warranty.

I feel this is a tripod for light systems.

I have a Nikon dSLR's (D40) with max a 55-200mm "consumer" lens, and the tripod

feels solid with it, even when I turn the camera on its side, with the center

post raised.

I got the Manfrotto mini ball for this and its a perfect fit. The midi that I

own is simply too big (its larger than the platform) and heavy, and the whole

point is portability. Only problem I have, is that there are no holes in the top

for screws to lock down the ballhead, even though in the general instructions it

says it should. I am guessing that because it?s a smallish top, they skipped

this on this model. Still.

I wrote to the cust serv (48h ago), but no answer as of yet.

The case it comes in is also high quality and is just big enough to fit the pod

+ my mini ball head.

After my first foray into the field with this (I like to bicycle and this is

compact enough to put on my bike rack behind my camera bag), I am very happy I

got it and it gave me a stable platform.

Don't forget to register to auto extend the warranty to 5 years - it's not clear

that you need to do that to get the full 5 years.

Got it from Adorama.<div></div>

The D40/x gives you the option to shoot Raw + JPG too.

No DoF though.

And you DO need AFs lenses.

But its cheaper. And newer.

Get that with another "consumer" lens like the 55-200VR, a good tripod and head, some filters, a flash, and you will be very happy. The body is just the beginning, people tend to forget that. Its the accessories that you need to put into the equation...

If you DO go Pro, thats a different story; as I am not pro, I wont comment on that.

I have been useing the Bogen midi ball head for the past month, and I like it.

The QR is fine, dont see the problem with it.

If you are looking at Giottos and Benbo, that means, like me, you wont be looking at $300 ball heads.

It depends on the weight you intend to put on it.

If you have, as I do, a light dSLR, with no more than a 200mm zoom lens, then a "cheap" $70-80 ball head from bogen is more than fine. The midi is solid, locks very firmly and holds perfectly still.

The midi lacks a tension adjuster, if you want that, get the full size head.

I know this is probably a basic thing, but I have always used them empirically.

I would like to know the difference and when better to apply each one, rather

than to try it out, and use the back button...

Thanks.

Actually I posted this mostly in order to help others starting out in digital. Most of this list is as a result of reading here. I just put it in one thread.

I did forget to add the card. I got a 1GB sandisk ultra II.

Also a polarizer. (Man there is so much...)

The tripod is a bit overkill, however it was cheap. And for the money its a lot of tripod. Problem is, unless I get a real piece of rubbish, this is whats left, and still remain on a very low budget.

Most of my old N70 gear is on another continent, I was unable to bring it with me.

The following is a list of gear I think is a great start. I feel its even

sufficiant for the long term, if budget is an issue. Is there anything important

missing? There are always more lenses one can buy and better "stuff", however if

a line must be drawn, I think this is a good line, a line, one (me for instance)

can be happy with.

Camera: D40 kit w/ 18-55mm lens Cost: about $540

Lens2: 55-200 VR Cost: about $230

Lens3: 50mm 1.8 MF AIS Cost: about $60 (no metering w/ D40) Even with the

suboptimal-for-MF screen of the D40, I can still focus fine. If you hate

guesstimating exposure / redoing shots (hey, it's a digital camera, remember?),

get the AF (CPU) version for about $60 more.

Flash: SB-400 Cost: about $112. This flash is SMALL. I tested it vs. the built

in, and I am happy I bought it. It will also save you battery power.

Filters: 3 of multicoated UV, skylight or NC. Cost: about $26 each + shipping

at the big NY stores. (Here no scrimping)

Bag: Lowpro on sale, various. Cost: about $15-25. A small compact bag like the

EX140 is nice. Incredible what I can fit in there. It looks more like a lunch

bag than a camera bag. I have my camera, kit lens, zoom, 50mm, flash and a

polarizer. One problem is that it all only fits in, if the attached lens is the

zoom, not the 18-55. Also I have the 50mm and the flash in the unprotected (no

foam) pocket on the outside of the bag.)

Tripod: Amnova tripod, AT-12T. ~6.5lb. Cost: $40-70 incl. shipping. This is a

big heavy thing. I had to oil the legs a bit when I got it, because they did not

swing out easily (I like them easily swinging out) . And on close examination

you can tell its not perfect; there are some tiny burs here and there, the bag

is sub par (don't use it anyway) and you could just "tell" its not a "your

favorite brand here".

However, it locks well, the center can be removed and reversed, and also used

as a monopod (on this model). Even with the post extended, it's rock solid, and

reaches my full 6ft height with no problem. I don't know about their CF ones.

Eventually I will get a lighter CF one from benro or faisol, but that's in the

future. If you can handle the weight, this really is fine. In a year or so, Ill

report how it stood up to my decidedly not daily use.

Head: Bogen midi ball head (486rc2). For this system you really don't need the

maxi, really. I suspect not even if you get a "real" zoom. And the Miniball is

about the same price, so go for the midi. Cost: about 70$ incl. shipping.

Remote: PoGo version of Ml-l3. About $15 incl. shipping. Cheaper than the Nikon

one, works perfectly. Can also be reprogrammed.

Film: Kodachrome ASA25 (just kidding).

Software: The GIMP. Its freeware, however, it does have a learning curve. I

still use paint-shop-pro and LOVE it, however I have recently delved into GIMP

and am learning it. I like it. I think.

For some of these you can get free shipping (like from Amazon)

Summary and Total: For up to $1200 you can get yourself a very adequate system.

Ill clarify what I meant.

I need to be in M mode to even press the shutter release with non-cpu lens, so yes I was in M mode.

I had thought that despite being in M mode, and while the camera wont give me an automatic metering, it would still let me know if I am over/under exposed with the +/- bars.

I just picked up a used 50mm 1.8 MF non-cpu lens.

I was under the wrong impression, that although I lose TTL metering, I would be

able to manual meter using the little +/- bar in the viewfinder.

I was wrong. Now that I think about it, I dont know WHAT I was thinking. *shrug*

That said, it did not cost that much, is a wonderfull lens and I can wait to go

and shoot with it.

Regarding MF. Many have said that the D40 finder is not great for MF. That might

be true, its not GREAT, but it certainly works well. I have no problem MFing the

lens, and its more a situational lens anyway, so I wont go blind :).

I agree with Lester.

I got the D40 because of fund issues too, and yes, I wish I could AF with a couple of my old lenses and my REALY old one wont meter.

But the kit lens, though not "built like a tank" and admittedly needs to be treated gently, has gotten great reviews, and the 55-200VR is on the way to me as we speak. Had I gotten a better body, I would not have been able to afford the extra lens and the SB400. I am now saving for a decent tripod.

I will admit the screen on the D40 is not the greatest for MF, however, the only time I will be using my MF lens, will be when I have the time to set up.

I am and will use it for much more than "snap shots".

If everything is on manual, why not use an old, but great, SB-26. That can probably handle the load with no problem. It has both manual and A mode.

That said, I would not be happy with that sort of thing happening to me anyway with such high-tech gear...

Hehe ok. Its been a long while since I bought a lens. And I was not sure what G ment, thanks.

And time does seem to do that, huh. March on.

Well Ill need to get used to it then :)

Are all the new lenses made without an aperture ring? Or only the cheap ones,

like my new kit lens?

I am assuming the CPU contacts now completely replace the need for the ring. I

know its a vestige from an earlier age, but am I the only one who misses it?

I really miss the ring.

I need to answer that.

I think Nikon ALSO is counting on people who ARE legacy users like me, but are still on low budget. And are willing to compromise.

Don't forget that the older non-AFS lenses, are much easier to manual focus. I tried to MF the kit lens with the tiny focus ring at the end of the barrel, and it was not easy. It is very slippery. However older lenses, even AF that WONT work on the D40, are easier to MF.

So in summary the big deal here is that we need to MF some of our older lens. (And (Oh no!) manual meter the non-CPU ones - histogram anyone??). For me, it was well worth the lower price, and I thank Nikon for finally putting out a camera that is cheap, but still wont make all my old stuff completely obsolete.

I can still use my SB-26 when I need some real pop. (Otherwise I will use the SB-400, when I get it)

I can still use my beloved 105mm micro. etc etc.

I took my son out to ride his bike, and snapped some "Action" shots as he was

peddled closer to me.

I had the camera on:

Cont. Servo AF and AF Area - Dynamic.

However, the camera did not refocus. O.K., I realized that it was probably

because I had the button down and the camera wont refocus in Continuous mode.

So I then changed that back to "Auto servo", and tried again. But still it did

not refocus, and the last images were bluryish.

So then I put it on "AF area - Closest subject" and left it on auto servo. I

pressed the button a few times but he was STILL out of focus when he came near

to me.

I was expecting the camera to follow him across the viewfinder, starting from

left to right and see each of the 3 AF brackets light up in turn. I did not move

the camera, letting my son start in on the left side and reach the right side of

the view, as he came closer.

In other words, what setting do I need to be enable auto focus across a dynamic

view?

Or, what was I doing wrong please.

Or, is this simply too hard for my D40?

Thanks.

ps: a link to a previous thread (I had no luck finding one) would be welcome too.

Petrana, after reading your post I lol at myself!

I suppose I did make it sound like a life decision. In a way it was; I have not spent that much on myself in a long time (3 kids tuition, life and mortgage will do that hehe) but yes, you certainly helped put it back into perspective for me...

And I don't mean to discourage anyone from buying a btr body, however, for those like me who are more budget minded, I wanted to share my conclusions.

Ah and I forgot about the no metering with non-cpu lenses, but I'll get around that too :).

First post here. I used to subscribe to the digest of the usenet Nikon bb long

long ago.

I read closly many of the posts here and decided to post a summary of why I

chose the D40.

backround: A long time "Advanced amature", I have a moderatly nice N70 system.

My prize lens is the 105mm micro. Good old SB-26. Funding has always been an

issue, so I struck a balance between what I wanted and what I could aford.

Past few years I found myself waiting and waiting for Nikon to come out with a

moderatly priced digital SLR I could afford. Meanwhile, my 5 year old 4mp Optio

(A gift) got more use and my beloved N70 got covered in the proverbial dust.

Finaly the D40x came out. I said oooh thats it. Ok, I might even have drooled a

bit too. So the past few days I dived deep back into forums, reading digital

terminology etc.

My choice is to get the D40. (not x). Not that I "dont buy the MP myth", but I

simply agree that I wont need much more than 6.1.

I agree its a certain compromise, one that I think is worth it.

The price cant be beat.

I dont mind manual focus with some of my old lenses. I wont even mind manual

metering with with my realy old, but realy nice 24mm Nikkor prime. Ill contiue

to use spot focusing like I always have done anyway.

More Importantly, I can now afford to buy the 55-200 VR lens and the SB400,

(next month of course...).

I WILL use more than the kit lens on it, I WILL get a flash for it and I WILL

use it to its upmost capabilities. And I WONT be insulted if I get a look that

says "Ah, you only have a D40", secure that I made a good choice for myself.

One point I realy want to make is one a few posters here said in various ways.

You dont need to have the best camera to be a good photographer. I learned to

shoot on an old russion Zenit camera with manual aperture and an on top light

meter. Some of the macro pics I took then (about 13 years ago) are still among

my best.

So I will take the D40, with its disadvantages and use my understanding of

photography to overcome its limitations. Dont overextend yourself to get a D80,

and then not be able to afford more lenses etc.

SO thanks again to many here who helped me make this happy decision.