iconoclastica

March 6, 2020

Thanks, Mike, I will look into the sugestions you make. Can't say more until I have seen them. I am involved with a wordpress site too, but we find it hard to have wordpress do what we like, rather than the other way round. But the main raison d'etre of that site is not showing photos and WP is indeed an excellent tool for the other types of content.

@conrad: In the time I made my website I needed flash only to make a kind of slide-show with slide-in/out animation. Today I would choose css to do the same thing. But as a bonus, the flash application well hides the location of the images, so one needs more than the right mouse button to download the photos. So far, all the web-apps I have seen work with Javascript/Css leaving the resource locators in the open. If that is all there is now, I guess I will have to go with the flow, but for the moment i am still reluctant to choose that direction.

March 4, 2020

Years ago I made my website (www.iconoclastica.nl) based on flash and hand-coded html, which served my needs and was reasonably safe against rogue downloading. For a number of years now I note ever fewer computers are able to display the flash app. Now, after a long time of neglect, I'd like to bring my site up to date with modern technology. What is the present day advice on tech or web applications to do so?

June 14, 2019

I have been presented with an old MultiBlitz IIIb flash unit from 1964. It seems to be in working order, but I don't yet entirely understand it. For example, there are 5 connector sockets, where probable at least two of them are to be used as trigger connectors. And there's a second, smaller block beneath the power house, where I would expect a battery unit, that contains similar power electronics with a really huse capacitor as the main power unit. I have no clue yet how this is supposed to cooperate with the main unit other than how to connect it physically.

Therefore I am quite desperately looking for the original manual, or a copy of it. There are pics of it at Pinterest's, but they don't lead me to the text. Would anyone here have a tip where to look for it?

May 21, 2016

Attatched to the light trap of the Paterson Orbital are two perpendicular ridges that by some are designated "flow guides". It's quite hard to describe what they look like, but here's a picture showing 'm clearly:

Since I am now using the Orbital two develop 13x18 negatives with emulsion on both sides, I have to lift the film a little (c. 2mm) from the bottom to allow developer to work on the entire lower film surface. Doing so, however, causes the flow guides to make two clearly visible parallel marks on the film.

What do you think, are these flow guides essential the way they are, or would it be safe to make them a little less high so they won't touch the film?

February 4, 2015

Just found some. It's easy once you got a phrase from within the book:

<cite >www.fotorembrandt.be/data/mediablocks/B+WHandbook_Full-1.pdf</cite>

<cite >www.frodis.net/redraven/B+WHandbook1_7.pdf</cite>

Wim

February 4, 2015

From various sources I have been referred to "https://www.schneideroptics.com/info/handbook/pdf/B+WHandbook_Full.pdf", but that file seems no longer to be available from Schneider's website. Does anyone know a valid link to another copy of the text?

thanks,

Wim

January 17, 2015

Working systematically and mitering the top right corner should keep track of the emulsion side. Crudely measured, sheet film of this size is about 200 um thick and 120 roll film 166 um. The stiffness of the latter is definitely less than of the film sheets. I expect that for experimenting it will suffice even if there will be a penalty for the film won't be flat. Trying to fit in developed film shows a lift of less than 1 mm off the back plane. I will just try it as soon as I can have a cutter adapted for blind operation.

Pete, Thanks for the link. I develop in the paterson orbital. It may need a small adaptation to prevent the sheets floating all about.

January 16, 2015

Thanks for all this info! I don't see much advantage of sheet film over roll film here, except for one thing: experimentation with exposure and development times. The greatest problem, I guess, is not the camera or its back construction, but the availability of sheet film. Sofar, I have only seen it advertised in 25 ASA and not exactly cheap. Wouldn't it be possible to cut a 120 film in 8 sheets?

January 15, 2015

With my 3.5e came a plate adapter back with two cut sheet film holders. I now am trying to figure out how exactly they are to be used. It seems I've got on part more than shown in the manual. From back to fore these are:

<ol>

<li>the back of the holder with the turning key</li>

<li>(attached to 1) the carrier that comes forward when the key is turned</li>

<li>a black plate the size of a film sheet that slides sideways in and out the carrier (as the sheets do)</li>

<li>the black slide that covers the film</li>

</ol>

What is the black slide (#3) for? The illustration in the manual just shows the carrier behind the film.

January 15, 2015

With my 3.5e came a plate adapter back with two cut sheet film holders. I now am trying to figure out how exactly they are to be used. It seems I've got on part more than shown in the manual. From back to fore these are:

<ol>

<li>the back of the holder with the turning key</li>

<li>(attached to 1) the carrier that comes forward when the key is turned</li>

<li>a black plate the size of a film sheet that slides sideways in and out the carrier (as the sheets do)</li>

<li>the black slide that covers the film</li>

</ol>

What is the black slide (#3) for? The illustration in the manual just shows the carrier behind the film.

January 2, 2015

Excellent detail, Colin. Thank you.

January 1, 2015

Yes, Bay II it is. The marking is engraved on the filters. It's the 75/80mm thing that puzzles me.

Interesting point on the international naming. Mine has a metric scale, so I presume it is a "C" of "continental" :-)

January 1, 2015

Thank you, Martin! "Turn the adjusting ring beyond the left or right stop" - that does it. I will keep that booklet.

Any suggestions on the lense cap, or would I better measure it and find a 3D-printer?

January 1, 2015

Most certainly it has...

January 1, 2015

I have just acquired a Rolleiflex 3.5C, at least I think it's that one. It fits the image and description of the RolleiClub including the serial (which other such lists cause it to be called differently). Only it doesn't feature the planar 2.8/80, but a planar 3.5/75mm.

In difference from other models that I have been able to find the manual of, this one has a single knob at the left combining all the left side functions. From various discussions I have found out how to handle most of these functions, but setting the film speed remained elusive so far. One mentioned that it was quite a hassle to set, and right he may have been, but it didn't help to discover whitch parts to push or pull or turn. I expect the light meter needs this setting, doesn't it?

On other thing is that it didn't come with a lens cap. I want to buy one, but listings on ebay say "75mm" or "80mm" instead of what I would expect: "bay II". Which type would fit my camera?

Thanks,

Wim

February 10, 2012

This is a late contribution, but well, I got my 7D last week and this is the first discussion that shows up in Google when searching for "EOS utility XP64".

I suppose there are different versions of the installation software, but generally speaking the solution given by the OP woks, on XP64(SP2) for the 7D, except for the "camera not recognised" issue. However, I noted that the files in the EOS_Utility.RAR are the same as in the two .CAB-files in the drive:\SOFTWARE\EOSUTILITY\COMMON of the original installation CD-ROM. CAB files can simply be extracted by e.g. WinZip.

So, the simplest solution is to open common.cam with WinZip and extract the contents (with paths!) to a suitable directory within your Program Files (x86).

January 18, 2011

I just opened a new pack of film, now containing the following information (in English):

SHANGHAI ISO100 B/W SHEET FILM

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE

properties

Shanghai ISO100 B/W sheet film, single coated on a 0.175mm clear PET base, with anti-halation layer on the opposite side. It can be used in professional photography.

Fine grain, long scale, high resolving power, wide exposure and processing latitude, suitable for high ratio enlarging Outstanding results will be made.

suggestiveness

There is a V-type dented cut at the short edge of each film. The coated emulsion layer faces up, when the V-type dented cut is at the right-up side or at the left-down side of the film.

Caution

The film should be kept in a cool, dry place away from radiation sources or harmful gases, and it's casing should be ripped open only before use.

Load or unload your camera with the sheet film in total darkness only.

Developing & fixing:

<table>

<tbody>

<tr>

<td colspan="2">DEVELOPING SOLUTION</td>

<td colspan="2">FIXING SOLUTION</td>

</tr>

<tr>

<td>Water(50 °C)</td>

<td>Water(50 °C)</td>

</tr>

<tr>

<td>Metol</td>

</tr>

<tr>

<td>Sodium Sulphite (desiccated)</td>

<td>Sodium Sulphite (desiccated)</td>

</tr>

<tr>

<td>Hydroquinone</td>

<td>Acetic Acid(28%)</td>

</tr>

<tr>

<td>Borax(crystals)</td>

<td>Boric Acid(crystals)</td>

</tr>

<tr>

<td>Water to make</td>

<td>Potassium Alum</td>

</tr>

<tr>

<td>Water to make</td>

</tr>

</tbody>

</table>

<ol>

<li>Time for developmont: 8-12minutes at 20 °C(68 °F)</li>

<li>Time for fixing: about 10 minutes</li>

<li>After washing for about 30 minutes in running water, hang the film in a clean, air-ventilated place to dry.</li>

</ol>

SMP IC PHOTOSENSITIVE MATERIAL FACTORY

January 9, 2011

One of the amazing things about flash bulbs is that they produce more light than most electronic flashes.

</blockquote>

Knowing that might come handy one day. Never used bulbs since my early youth. Had fun with lycopodium powder though, but even if it doesn't leave a cloud of metal oxides (it's just burned fat), I'd rather not use it indoors.

Gaffer tape is great stuff!

</blockquote>

Don't know how I ever lived without it...

January 7, 2011

Yes, it has an M-X slider. On position M, where it was sitting, I could not see the flash through the lens when holding the lens board in my hand. After shifting it into the X-position as you suggested, I was blinded by the flash light at once.

Thanks, problem solved. What is the M-position for?

Wim

January 7, 2011

I have been using Shanghai 4x5 film for quite some time now and, once I figured out its parameters, with predictable results. However, now I tried it in a studio with flashlight, and it failed me again. I exposed four negatives. Three of them remained completely transparent after development; the fourth one I forgot to close the shutter and it apparently picked up more or less the right amount of daylight to show a blurred picture.

So, the development must have been correct. I anyway used freshly mixed developer (HCH-110) and fixer (Ilford rapid).

The one negative with visible image picked up little or no flashlight: The light is comming from one side, as was the guide light, whereas the flashlights stood on both sides of the face.

So, what's happened? Is the film not sensitive to flashlight? Should I determine another effectife film speed? Did the shutter miss the light pulse?

Camera: Cambo SC2, lens Caltar S2-210, shutter Copal No. 1

thanks,

Wim

September 14, 2010

Now I couldn't find back my own post, for I wrote the title wrong. The format of the sheets is 4x5 (ca. 9x12 cm) and not 5x7. Maybe the list master could correct this?

February 21, 2010

... and since that worked better, the density graph:

February 21, 2010

I made a mistake with the image url-s (you can only see them when you're logged in as me...).

Here I will try again with the film box lable.<div></div>

February 21, 2010

Since I couldn't find effective film speed and developing times, I have performed some film testing following Amdams' instructions. It's not perfect, but I think it will suffice.

summary

Effective ISO=80. Developing: 6:30 min with HCH-110.

material

I bought the films by EBay; two boxes of 25 sheets come for about US$30. The label on the box is largely in chinese, what I can read says:

ISO 100B/S

4in x 5in x25

5511

2010-08

The developer used is Kodak HCH-110 (19°C); fixer Ilford Rapid Fixer. Developing was continuous in a power driven Paterson Orbital, 150 ml of fluid used for 8 sheets and then renewed. Density was measured with a TechKon RT111/LP112. The test subject were a combination of one gray card and two black-white-gray-colour scales.

Camera: Cambo SC with 150mm Xenar 4.5 in a Prontor-Press shutter; bellows extension c. 150 mm. The subject was lit with two energy saver daylight lamps.

film speed

Light meter readings for the subsequent ISO-speeds were too close to distinguish more than 100 and 64 (only afterwards I realized I could have set the intermediate apertures...). I developed 4 minutes (see below), with is too short. I don't think this much influences my conclusion, but as you can see from the table of development times, the zone I density is not very precise.

<tbody>

<tr>

</tr>

<tr>

<td>meter</td>

<td>-4 stops</td>

<td>density</td>

</tr>

<tr>

</tr>

<tr>

</tr>

</tbody>

</table>

So, it's close to 100; I will use 80 as my best guess.

developing time

I started underestimating the development time thinking it'd be near 4 minutes like TriX, so my range is not well chosen in retrospect. I did 3, 4, 5 and finally 8 minutes and then ran out of time and material...

Thanks to the different shades in my subject, I could determine more zones than just V and VIII.

Five minutes is not enough, 8 minutes somewhat overdone, so I'd say seven minutes is what I will use from now.

<tbody>

<tr>

</tr>

<tr>

</tr>

<tr>

</tr>

<tr>

</tr>

<tr>

</tr>

<tr>

</tr>

<tr>

</tr>

<tr>

</tr>

<tr>

</tr>

<tr>

</tr>

<tr>

</tr>

</tbody>

</table>

Linearizing the data for zones V and VIII and interpolation for the desired densities 0.67 and 1.25 respectively leads me to estimate 6:30 minutes as a proper general purpose developing time.

finally a question...

The densities that I tried to attain are intermediate values for condenser and diffusion enlargers. Wouldn't it be better to strive for less contrast, in order to capture as much information as possible, if I intend to scan the negatives for digital processing??

Wim

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Posts posted by iconoclastica