rdm

<p>You could get one of the higher end Polaroid pack film cameras at a reasonable price or even a converted 110a/b if you have the money. Or if money is no issue, and you want to use the camera you get for both film and instant pictures, How about a speed graffix or <strong id="yui_3_10_0_1_1424727850524_1249">Polaroid</strong> 600se</p>

<p>Did anyone catch the Golden globe awards and notice what Kelly Osborn was holding?</p> <p>https://www.yahoo.com/style/craziest-accessories-at-the-golden-c1421043870675/photo-kelly-osbourne-s-camera-clutch-photo-1421043440462.html</p> <p>Yes it's a purse, but its basically identical to a C3</p>

<p>Very Interesting.</p>

<p>Interesting thread...<br> About 6 years ago I purchased two boxes of Kodak, Color Portra NC160, 70mm non-perforated film from the auction site.<br> It only expired in 2006 and was pretty cheep. I had intended to use it, re-spooled, in an old six 16 camera that I have, but the lab near me where I would get my medium format color film processed (they did a dip and dunk method) closed up the same month. It would cost way too much I think to try and send away for processing. So in my fridge it still sits. Oh well.</p> <p>How much do you think a, cold stored, 70mm bulk roll of Kodak Professional Plus-X (B&W Film) <strong>should cost</strong>??<br> I would think any 70mm B&W film is an ideal film for re-spooling and using in 116/616 cameras, since one can process it at home.<br> I seen one sell on the auction site for eighty dollars a couple years ago.<br> I wonder if my color film can be processed at home as ether, color (inexpensively) or B&W somehow? (with acceptable results).</p>

<p>Do not forget infinity Focus!<br> Canon lens mounts are closer to the image plane than the Nikon Flange distance; so if you use an adapter for canon lens to Nikon body it would not be able to focus to infinity unless it contains a corrective lens, and if you use one of those adapters with a corrective lens to allow for infinity focus, it would undoubtedly be a focal length multiplier too .</p>

<p>I am posting here in this old thread to anyone who uses these 202 strobes or for the ones that have already posted & have notices turned on for this topic. As well as any one new that may come across this topic in the future. please message me.<br> You can post here too but message or eMail me so I can come back here to post.<br> <strong>I have just acquired 2 of these 202 flashes. </strong><br> <strong>One is a 202E and one is a 202LA . </strong><br> I cant find much information on them. And i am not buying the manuals off ebay .. but i sure would love to have the Technical manual that they are advertising with the exploded views.<br> Anyway, there does seam nothing too them, I just want to know if anyone has any of the accessories for it and could I see photos of them.. Particularly the barn doors or the Snoot.<br> I found 2 photos online of previous 202's that were for sale which had those accessories, but the photos are not clear.<br> Also I was thinking of getting one more strobe to round out my set; three are more useful than just two but I cant seem to find a single 202 for sale. I have come across a 51A & a 52A (the 52A looks in rough shape) .<br> What would some of you, more you experienced users, suggest is a fair price that one should pay for these strobes?</p>

<p>lots of freebies? <br /> Dam! All the festival's that I ever go to around here never have any freebies.</p> <p>Nice shots by the way . Old Minolta are fantastic cameras. Especially the SR series. and the Rokkors are among the best manual lenses ever IMHO. I have an SR-2 that I like as a backup.</p>

<p><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=6998911">Michael</a>, I agree with what you said. I am of like mind there. I too love the way it looks, but unless I come across one dirt cheep I am not getting one. <br> I am sticking with my Kodak Signet and keeping an eye out for any inexpensive Medalists (I or II), but they never seem to be selling for cheep.</p>

<p>So what did you end up doing Rob?</p>

<p>Sounds like you need to send the shutter out to get a CLA .</p>

<blockquote> <p>The made in japan is only an indicator that this version is the last one with the latest coatings etc, i am sure they were all made in japan.</p> </blockquote> <p>That statement makes no sense, and is an oxymoron.</p>

<p>I have a Metz 48 Af-1. I use it allot , so far I just carry 8 extra batteries, but that has become annoying. I know they do not make a powerpack module for this flash but i was thinking I could at-least make a cheep powerback.<br> I have an engineering degree and I am very good with tools and repairs. I hardly ever modify beyond what the factory designed things for. Although I know Metz never intended this flash to be used with a powerpack, we engineers usualy build things with higher than specified tolerances. It might be able to take the extra power.<br> Well this Flash problem go me thinking. I know I can make a power cable that fits into the battery compartment (using dowels with screw ends to make the power connection) and Maybe I can use a holder that takes 4 C sided batteries. I know the voltage would be the same as 4 AA batteries but the Ampes would be more. <br> My thinking is 1 of 3 things could happen:</p> <ol> <li>I would just have longer battery life and the flash would heat up faster requiring me to turn it off and rest it for a few minutes every so often.</li> <li>I end up with a slightly faster recycle time and Would have longer battery life and need a rest every 10 minutes.</li> <li>The flash fires once (or a few times) then everything inside blows.</li> </ol> <p>OK, Place your bets...</p>

<p>Hm... OK so I see you are not quite there yet on understanding the Basic principals of lenses/photography and it's components. You might want to Google some terms, such as Aperture, flange focal distance & image circle, and try to learn what that's all about. I do have an Engineering degree and can fully explain these things about lenses but unless you have a good background in physics I am not going to get into it with you about why certain lenses are a certain size. It would take too much typing. But you are kinda on the right track. Lenses designed for smaller sensors (smaller image circle) can be smaller then lenses designed for larger ones. Also lens speed (how much the aperture opens up i.e. lowest f-stop number) comes into play a little. When you get lenses like 1.4 or smaller, the front element is considerably larger than ones that max out at f/2.8 .<br /> About that lens your vendor replied about , . . I suspect that it was glued in place by the last owner like so many are, and needs to be taken apart to be freed up. That's actually something I have done for many people who buy them for use on the mirror-less cameras, along with other lens repairs. Anyway, the practice of gluing the ring on manual lenses is to prevent them from being accidentally moved out of focus during or after install.. Most quality new lenses have a focus locking screw now so that gluing can be avoided.<br /> Also CCTV stands for Closed-circuit television. Its not as specific a term as you think. It's like your saying .. "My cell phone is the rectangle kind, does it have a good camera lens?"<br /> CCTV cameras (or security cameras as some call them) mostly have ether a CS- mount or C-mount, but there are also a few other mount types they can have. They also can have 1/3" sensors, 1/2" or other size sensors up to 4/3 inch , so It would be better to say "I have a CS-mount CCTV camera with a 1/3" sensor" or "My CCTV camera uses a 1/2" sensor and C-mount lens mount".<br /> Like I said earlier, the mount type is important, as important as the camera sensor size.. If your CCTV camera uses a C-mount and you attach a CS-mount lens, you will always get a blurry image no matter what sensor size it has..</p>

<p>Hello , and welcome to the site. <br /> Before I answer your question, First off, I must say I do not feel that you are being rude in any way. You have written a perfectly respectful inquiry.<br /> (also. I did not watch the video)<br /> <br /> Second , you didn't need to pick the Polaroid Sub-catagory , you could have chosen no sub-category and left this post generaly in the "Alternative cameras and lenses" forum with no sub-category</p> <p>Third, I want to say that eBay Item number 291149161356 shows a photo of a lens that has an Adjustable focus ring. So your statement of "It has the focus fixed at infinity" confuses me.<br /> I must mention that I have the same lens and use it on my camera (with c-mount adapter) to take photographs all the time. It is very nice and focuses/works well. I should Add that It was purchased in a Lot of two lenses that were used on security cameras, and one had some glue to hold the focus ring in place at infinity but that was easy to break free and clean up.<br /> You might want to look at that & let me know if you think yours is glued in place.</p> <p><strong>Now</strong> to address "<em>the differences between economy CCTV lenses, quality C mount TV lenses and M42 lenses with a C mount adapter</em>."<br /> You first need to know the term <strong>flange focal distance</strong> (FFD) [also known as, <strong>flange back distance</strong> (FBD)]<br /> Well, economy CCTV lenses are cheaper and lower quality than many, but not all C-mount TV lenses. Also they might be CS-mount instead of C-mount, which is usual cheaper to design and produce fast lenses, but not necessarily a lesser quality lens.. Both C-mount and CS-mount use a 25mm screw thread with the same thread pitch, so they can screw into eater mount, but a CS-mount (which most CCTV cameras use) is a lens mount that is 5mm closer to the image sensor than C-mount, so a CS-mount lens will never <strong>ever</strong> be able to focus to infinity on a C-mount camera. It will always act like a Macro focus lens. However with an adapter (a 5mm extension tube) a C-mount lens functions normally on a CS-mount camera.<br /> An M42 lens mount is a 42mm screw camera lens mount (often called a Universal screw mount or a Spotmatic mount), that has been used on SLR film cameras for many decades. Most famously by Pentax on their Spotmatic line of 35mm film SLR cameras. That M42 mount sits <strong>much</strong> farther away from the film/sensor than the C-mount does. It has a Greater <strong>flange back distance</strong> so an adapter is needed. But there are many many High quality lenses available on the used market in that mount.</p> <p>Hope I helped you some.<br /> Feel free to ask me any more questions that you have.</p>

<p>Mat had some good points with his suggestion :</p> <blockquote> <p>Consider some of the recent Sony mirrorless bodies. Small, quick, and some pretty good lenses available. But more importantly, you can use a modestly priced adapter to mate up your existing Canon-mount lenses.</p> </blockquote> <p><br />Hes right about that, <strong>but</strong> remember that the Sony mirrorless system has only <strong>SOME</strong> good lenses. If you look at the Micro Four thirds system, with the new Panasonic and Olympus Mirrorless bodies and lenses, then you have an even better system of mirrorless bodies and many fantastic lenses.<em> Small, quick, and </em><strong>Many, Very</strong><em> good lenses available. But more importantly, you can </em><strong>Also</strong><em> use a modestly priced adapter to mate up your existing Canon-mount lenses.</em><br /> <br />However if you just want to buy a Body Only, to replace the what you got , and you do NOT plan on selling off the Canon gear that you have, well there is only one solution, in my very knowledgeable opinion. The only Full Frame camera that is the More compact than any other , and can use all the lenses that you already have, is the New Mirrorless Sony A7 series of cameras. It is the only Mirrorless full frame camera and the most compact and lightest full frame camera out there. Currently there are only 2 (the A7 & A7r) but soon there will be 3 (the A7s) to choose from. <br />The A7 is the Cheapest of any new Full frame camera sold too.</p> <p>But if you are looking to start a whole new system and get rid of all your Large and heavy canon gear, you can not get into a better and more compact system than the Micro 4/3 system. With the lightest and most compact Pro Bodies and Lenses available. Also the largest selection of lenses and camera Bodies from any Mirrorless system available too (Not including adapted lenses).</p>

<p>NO , the beginning of any roll of 35mm film has a leader.., The same leader that you would trim off when your developing that roll of film. Well I know on the old Russian cameras and some old German cameras (like the old Leicas which they were probably copied from) the is no film rewind, but a second take up cartage that you must attach the 35mm film to. The leader needs to be cut of to best attach the film to the spool of that cartage to take up the film. Or some people use the left over cartridges from the previous roll of film and just tape the new films cut end to the little bit of film left from the old roll to make it a take up cartage.</p>

<p>Thank you so much for this post Donald.<br> Great shot from a great lens.</p>

<p>Most likely he means, that he has to trim the leader off completely, in order to attach it to the spool of the take up cartridge.</p>

<p>Oh yes, I do.</p>