larry_albert

October 8, 2002

What is you planned use?

Will you want "portrait" or "landscape" orientation of the image?

GS645S is "portrait" when normally held.

GW670 is "landscape" orientation when normally positioned.

Would you want to have to tip camera "on end" for most of you shots?

Both are excellent cameras.

Larry

November 13, 2001

I have always had excellent quality work from

Pro Photo of Lakeland Flordia.

1-800-237-6429

http://www.prophotoco.com/

My advice is free but possibly overpriced,

Larry

August 31, 2001

I have always had excellent quality work from

Pro Photo of Lakeland Flordia.

They offer 5x7 proofs from 120, 10 exposure, roll for $13.95

This include processing. Additonal sets are $12.70.

15 exposure 5x7 proofs are $19.25 for the first set

and $16.75 for additonal sets.

1-800-237-6429

http://www.prophotoco.com/

I shoot both 6x7 and 645 and both to Pro-Photo.

I proof 6x7 at 4x5, and proof 645 at 5x7 to get most

of the image onto the paper.

My advice is free and worth every cent it costs,

Larry

July 30, 2001

Alberto,

There is an ACTIVE list of panaromic photographers.

It is a service of Steven Morton at Monash University

located in Australia. I mention location so that you will

be aware of possible time zone differenc.

The list is international in participation.

Steven.Morton@sci.monash.edu.au

Monash University

>To get information about the mail server and the list send mail to

> mailserv@cc.monash.edu.au

>with the following commands typed in the body of your message

>which will return the information as listed.

> HELP

- Returns a generic help file.

If you have more questions about list send them to

listmanager@cc.monash.edu.au

As for which system is best and/or TRUE panaromic;

Those on the list do NOT agree!!

It is like asking what is the "one true religion."

You will find that the members have VERY strong opinions

about their choices of cameras.

The members can tell you about problems that exist with different

brands of cameras. (some swing lens cameras do not always swing

at a uniform rate) (some fixed lens have more fall off at edges)

Good Luck with which ever style camera you decide to go with.

Larry Albert

July 7, 2001

1) It seems that your focusing screen is correctly positioned with

respect to the film plane. The view image and your film were both

sharp when you photographed the mountains.

>When I look at the image in the viewfinder, mountains in the

>distance are crisp, and the pictures I've taken reflect that.

2) The infinity mark on your lens does not match up

with infinity for the focusing screen and film plane.

>Tonight, I went outside and focused on the moon. Being that the

>moon is just a tad further away than 50 feet, I tried to focus based

>on the focus ring measurement...infinity. The moon was blurry at

>that setting. I rolled back, the moon is in focus.

3) How do the scale marking agree with other distances.

Such as 10 feet. If ALL markings are incorrect it might

be that the lens is not mounted the correct distance from

the film plane, (focus screen and film were both correct at

the same time - you picture of mountains) If the

mounting ring is placing the lens a too close this would

allow the "focusing beyond infinity;" just like being too far

away would not allow focusing to infinity (just like the

close up / extension tubes).

Hopefully some other 501cm users will comment on

where the scale is for their system when focused for

infinity.

4) The possibility of having lens mounting positional

error comes to my mind because of working with video

cameras. If lens to image device (CCD or tube) is not

exactly correct a zoom lens will not "track." (If you zoom

in to limit, focus the image and then zoom out to compose

the image should still be in focus.) The key word for

talking to video person about this problem - back

focus.

5) I would not expect this mounting position error be a

problem with a new camera. If the camera has been

taken apart it might be that spacers or shims could have

been left out or reinstalled in wrong place. This is just a

guess - I have NO knowledge concerning the mechanical

design of your camera.

My free advice may be overpriced.

Larry

June 13, 2001

Joseph,

Marflex Service

39 US Highway 46

Pine Brook NJ 07058

973 - 808 - 9626

Have a profitable day,

Albert

May 29, 2001

Wade,

The words to search for are; (Scheimpflug) (Hinge Rule)

Or, you can just go to the following site for good explanation.

Technical Books on Photography by Harold M. Merklinger

http://fox.nstn.ca/~hmmerk/

Check out Scheimpflug and Hinge Rule links.

Hope this helps.

Larry

May 22, 2001

I have always had excellent quality work from

Pro Photo of Lakeland Flordia.

1-800-237-6429

http://www.prophotoco.com/

My advice is free and worth every cent it costs,

Larry

May 21, 2001

Bill,

You will be using "hot lights."

Many, if not all, fixtures will accept several different lamps.

These different lamps may vary in wattage or voltage.

Example: Lowell Tota-light accepts lamps from 300 watt to 800 watt when using 120 volt. A 800 watt lamp is listed for 220 volt.

Check with a knowledgable dealer or manufacture about what lamps will fit their fixtures. Also check lamp prices before buying the fixture. There is wide varation of prices for lamps of same wattage. Also there is wide varation in prices fromm different dealers. Lamp prices might make the bargain fixture very expensive to keep using.

You will need to find out what plug/receptacle combination is used for power in the Philippines. You might need to order different power cords to fit.

Hope this helps.

February 12, 2000

Pro Photo in Lakeland Flordia offers trading cards and "simulated" magazine covers.

1 - 800 - 237 - 6479

www.prophotoco.com

You said "at a reasonable price." Do not know what you feel is reasonable. Their catalog shows 12 cards for $6.10.

February 2, 2000

Chuck,

As an owner of both 6x45 and 6x7 Fuji range finders, I will put in my opinion; almost worth .02 USD.

Holding the two cameras in "normal" position, (viewfinder on top and tripod socket on the bottom), the vertical dimension is 6 (actually 54-55mm). When in this orientation think of the 6x45 as Portrait and the 6x7 or 6x9 as Landscape. (I use the landscape/portrait terms as your computer printer uses them, and not relating to photographic image content.)

You said "I am primarily a landscape photographer..."

Do you want to rotate a 6x45 camera 90 degrees for every landscape shot??

The 6x7 and 6x9 have the same body size. The 6x45 has a smaller body. You might like the handling and feel of one size vs the other.

January 28, 2000

Robert,

You can use EITHER type of polarizer on your Fuji.

As mention some cameras will only work correctly with a circular polarizer.

I use a circular on my GW670; but, only because it was offered at a very nice price.

December 20, 1999

Perspective is determined by position of the lens. Locate a tripod try with lenses of different focal lenghts at this one location. If a specific tree on the mountain is centered over a particular fence post by one lens, then it will be so located by every lens when on the unmoved tripod.

Different focal length lenses will change size of the image on the film and also include different angles of view; but always with the same perspective.

November 30, 1999

Matt,

A similar/related question was posted on photo.net yesterday.

Flash for Telephoto Subjects

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=000gOr

***** start of snip *****

You'll need to separate the flash from the camera using a cord to avoid red eye. A reasonable rule of thumb is that for every 1 foot of separation between the flash and the lens axis, your subject / camera distance should be 20 foot or less to avoid red eye.

Therefore, for 20 yards (60 ft) you need to have 3 foot of separation between camera and subject. See ttp://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=0006ja for a discussion on this topic.

***** end of snip ****

Check out both of the links for more complete discussion.

Hope this helps.

November 9, 1999

Alan,

Have you shot any film with this camera? Does film show any signs of color fringing/outlining that would indicate different focal planes for different colors? (chromatic aberrations?)

If the film does not show the same problem as the Leaf back; the problem is with the Leaf. It could be that when mounted the image chip is NOT absolutely parallel to the focal plane. (think of film not being totally flat)

I have no idea if the problem is in the back-camera mounting

plane or the chip alignment in the back. Would it be possible to try your back on a second camera?

Your details indicate that the problem becomes more noticeable when the lens is closest to the focal plane. (shorter lenses and greater subject distances. If there is an error of one tenth of an millimeter in the "film plane" these shorter distances would have a greater percentage of error. (One part in 500 for a 50mm lens - 0ne part in 2000 for a 200mm lens)

I reach this conclusion based on experience with TV cameras. The face of the pick-up tube has to be as close to parallel, as possible, to the focal plane so that sharp focus is had across the entire image.

That is my .02 USD worth.

August 15, 1999

An object (tennis ball) moving at 100 MPH / 140 feet per second / 1.68

inchs every one thousandth of a second.

If you are shooting from the side of the court using shutter speed of

1/1000 the image of the tennis ball will be elongated by 1.68 inches.

If you were shooting from end court and ball is coming directly at you

the ball would get 1.68 inces closer to the camera during the shutter

interval.

August 11, 1999

B&H sells a "6x9 Pinhole Camera Assembly Kit" by Besseler. It is listed on page 59 of their August Catalog. Price $34.50.

(... die cut courogated cardboard ... glue it together ...)

My "cheap" opinion; drill a hole in a body cap and make you own pinhoe. I seem to remember reading that f90, or close, was a good size for a pinhole. Could not find the link or bookmark for the discussion (Use whatever drill bit you can find that is between f64 and r128.) This opinion is offered for free. It may not be worth that price.

May 25, 1999

Chris,

Only one thing to add to Greg's answers.

My guess is the press photogs using TLR used the same "trick" that the Speed Graphic photogs used;

1) Figure what distance you want the subject to be from the camera when you take the photo.

2) Preset the lens for that distance.

3) Wait for the subject to move to the preset distance. Or, you move to reach the preset distance.

4) When at distance watch/check composition.

5) Release shutter.

The "old pros" would anticipate what the shot would be and prepare their setting before the "magic moment" happened.

Anticipate Prepare Shoot

February 17, 1999

We have used a few of the "shop" lights for video work.

They have worked well in our television studio and

occasionally being taken into the field for production. The

more expensive lighting units sold for video productions

are smaller and easier for the students to carry. "Shop"

lights will never replace our studio fixtures; but,they are

low cost addition that fill some needs. Studio fixtures

have more controlled beams, more uniform, lighting,

variable coverage (spot/flood), and barn doors.

Color temperature of the lamps is usually 3000K or

3200K. You would have to look up the ratings for the

specific lamp that you fixture uses.

The ones we use have Non Uniform light output.

Aiming a fixture at a wall results in noticeable uneven

horizontal bands of lighter and darker areas. Our

students are told to bounce the light off of ceiling, instead

of lighting the person direct, when shooting interviews

away from the studio. In the studio we use diffusers in

front of these fixtures.

November 19, 1998

Christian,

Polaroid MIGHT be able to answers your questions about film

for the are easiest to get Kowa Super 66 back. I have found them

to be helpful and concerned any time I have talked with them, but

have never had any reason to ask them about a Non-Polaroid

product.

If you Kowa Super 66 back uses roll film instead of a flat-pack,

you may be out of luck. I seem to remember being told that roll

rilm was no longer available.

Polaroid. Contact info follows.

Polaroid Main Customer Service Number

1 - 800 - 343 - 5000

Polaroid Home Page;

http://www.polaroid.com

Hope they can help you.

November 16, 1998

David,

The answers to your questions are easiest to get from

Polaroid. Contact info follows.

Polaroid

Main Customer Service Number

1 - 800 - 343 - 5000

Polaroid Home Page;

http://www.polaroid.com/

August 26, 1998

Warwick,

Thinking more about your question a second method to get the same answer came to mind. The second method is less complex and IMHO more

insightful.

Your guide number for one flash unit is 36 - f4 at 9 feet.

Using two light units will put twice as much light on the subject at 9 feet. Twice as much light means that you will need to close the iris one stop.

You will now be using f5.6 at 9 feet.

New guide number (5.6 x 9) is then 50.

This second derivation/solution may be easier to explain to your assistant. It uses less math and more insight.

Good Luck

Larry

August 25, 1998

Warwick,

Your new guide number for two flash units is 51.

You have a guide numberof 36 when using one flash unit.

To get a guide number of 72 would require FOUR flash units.

Detailed explanation:

One unit f4 @ 9 feet Guide number 36

Four units f4 @ 18 feet Guide number 72

18 feet is twice as far as 9 feet,

but light falls off at the square law rate.

Double the distance and you have one fourth of the original light level.

Triple the distance and you have one ninth of the original light level.

To double the guide number would require four times the inital light level.

Finally HOW to calculate the answer to your question;

Two of you units would give you a new guide number of 51.

That is your original number (36) times the square root of 2 (1.414) Gives the answer of 51.

General case formula:

(Original guide number) times (square root of(number of flash units))

Disclaimer:

This answer and formula are only valid when using flash units of identical outputs.

August 19, 1998

There was a discussion of soft-focus "filters" over on the Photo Net - Original Q&A. It may not have all of the answers you want. The discussion was aimed at portrait photos.

http://db.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=000EyL

Medium Format Digest has a lisiting for filters. Some of the entries are about soft-focus.

http://db.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-one-category.tcl?topic=Medium%20Format%20Digest&category=Filters

Vaseline or mineral oil on any old filter will diffuse some of the light and soften the image. But, the result will NOT be repeatable the next time. A store bought filter will work the same way next year.

Hope this helps.

July 27, 1998

Tamal,

A good site to check for processing labs is

http://www.photo.net/photo/labs.html

There are several posting here on MFD listed under Older Messages -

Printing/Processing.

Also check the photo.net classifieds for processing labs

http://classifieds.photo.net/gc/view-

category.tcl?domain=photo%2enet&primary_category=Lab%20Services

Good luck,

Larry

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