xavier

Looking for a software that will allow me to control a digital

camera via USB cable (or similar). I know most cameras have

CompactFlash cards but I was hoping to just take a shot and have it

appear on the Monitor via software.

This is for an electrophoresis system so the camera will be within

four feet of the PC. The camera will also need to fit a lens so it

must have some tread for a 37-49mm filter.

Can basic Photoshop Elements 2.O do this job by "acquiring image" or

is there another program out there. I need to control shutter and

time exposure.

1. "Dpreview.com article is out of date" -- I must agree since I acquired a 512MB for $90, but it is the best article I have found so far

2. "Camera internal buffer is what makes the difference in speed" -- well, I know big DSLR advertise their buffer sizes, but how do you compare Prosumer cameras G2 vs G5 vs Coolpix 5400. I have tried, but maybe I am missing the small print, no where do I find the G2 buffer in the specs.

3. "Lexar 12x card review in dpreview shows quite an improvement over Canon's card" -- I looked at the article and I am sold on 12x cards. I think I can now justify spending 50% more for a 12x vs 1x. Now I have to pick a brand.

Thanks for all your comments.

I own a Canon G2 with a basic Compact Flash Card. Now they are

Compact Flash Cards that are 4x, 12x, 16x... 40x. (An "x" being

150kb/sec) I know speeds vary by camera but is there a max or a level

where prosumer cameras don't benefit. For example, a Canon G2 can

benefit from a 4x or 8x, but 16x is no better, just more expensive.

I know that DSLRs benefit from this fast cards because they have

better hardware & software build it to gain more benefits. There are

online articles and comparisons for DSLRs (dpreview.com). But, I

have not been able to find comparisons online for prosumer cameras.

I would like to know how can one do a test to compare one card to

another?

Is there any specs on the camera that can help on determining writing

speeds?

Anyone know of a good online comparison site for Cards or Camera

writing speeds?

UPDATE: I did not way I was going to stay away from Ilford, I am just not familiar with their films (or Agfa for that matter). And in my opinion their website does not give an easy overview comparison.

I meant to write TMAX100, not TMZ100... sorry.

I have experiece a single roll of Kodak Portra B&W with C41 processing. In my brief experience a 1hr lab printing on color paper with this film produces poor results (muddy, overall gray, low contrast). However, I was not aware that this film could be printed on true B&W paper, have yet to test that out but very skeptical.

I am going to use a Professional Lab for developing and printing. I rather stick with true B&W film for optimal results.

Thanks for all your comments :) Frank

I am looking for a good B&W for portrait/wedding. My only experience

is with TriX 400 and TMZ100. I was hoping to find a site where I

would be able to get a close up look at the grain. I know I am being

picky, and most likely no one but myself will get close with a loupe

at an 8x10.

I am not looking for the fastest 3200 speed or finest 25 speed film.

I need it for good detail in a white dress and black tux.

I already tried Kodak, Fuji, Ilford website but beside a lost of

wording to get me lost I don't know how to compare the tech details.

I have also heard pleanty to stay away from anything not Kodak or

Fuji since other brand have less R&D. But is my only option "Popular

Photography" yearly mag on 101 films rated??

I plan to purchase a few rolls to test out myself, but the wedding is

coming up sooner than I wanted to. (No I am not the main

photographer.) Is their a gold standard to B&W film like there are

for color weddings like Fuji NPS 160 or Kokak Portra 160NC/VC??

I bought a used A2 a while back. Icons on the main dial are half

worn out, so it was put to good use before me. Anyway, I keep

hearing of the A2 main dial problems, so I am a little concern.

Right now my camera's dial works fine most of the time, other times

the dial is very very hard to turn. I like the camera very much and

$125 to get it fixed will be worth it.

Is it better to keep using it until it breaks, since it works ok most

of the time?? Is this the common symptom that leads to the Main Dial

Breaking?? Or will repair costs be cheaper now since is not fully

broken?? Also would it be better to first try a do it yourself

method that many people have described on their website or is that

too risky?? I mean it is after all a repair, and not a full

replacement so it might not last long anyway. Please let me know of

good repair shops or do it yourself sites that might be helpful.

Thanks

"a back too if you get one of the newer models. The old ones i.e. M645 or M645 1000S didn't have interchangable backs."

-- Bill Tate, November 01, 2001; 12:19 A.M. Eastern

*****Since I already work with 35mm, I would like to step up to a 6x6 or 6x7 format. And interchangable backs is a real plus (I think??).

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Do you plan to trek into the wilderness with it, or will you use it only in a studio?

*****Not quite decided, but more landscape (80%) than portrait (20%).

Weight is a factor there. Do you really need TTL autoflash and autofocus, or is your shooting style compatible with a manual camera and handheld meter?

*****A manual camera will be fine, since I think I heard autofocus and new tech is just new and expensive. Plus I rely more on my handheld meter than a built in.

Do you hope to expand into a full-blown system, or will you be happy with a single camera body and a lens or two?

*****That is the goal, to have the potential to get a full system. Im guessing 3-4 lenses and a spare body, though initially it just be a body & 2 lenses.

-- Mel Brown, November 01, 2001; 01:49 A.M. Eastern

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Mel gave some excellent advice. I'd say your choice depends on what you intend to use it for and what you're prepared to "put up with" - i.e. what do you like or not like about the camera/system.

****I am prefectly comfortable with a ligtmeter and all manual camera. But if I can get autofocus??? it might be worth it.

I wouldn't recommend you buy any camera based on the name alone e.g. a cheap 'blad 500C, Bronica ETR or Mamiya RB67 might scream bargain at you but could ultimately frustrate you.

****Would I give up too many features, by going with one of these starter systems???

Make sure you read up big time - I'd suggest starting at http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/cameras.html - some great info there.

****Thanks, for the info. I am looking for some good articles with good comparison, instead of the classic Popular Photography articles, or the my camera is better than your camera article without any objectivity at all.

-- Steve Teale, November 01, 2001; 02:08 A.M. Eastern

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For that I love my Bronice EC (or any other 6x6 camera with waistlevelfinder): it gets me more thoughtfull about composition, I have fallen in love with the square, and it helps to stay in contact with people you make a photograph of, because you don't hide behind the camera.

****I also love waistlevelfinders, but would like to be able to get an eye view finder for it if I chose.

-- Wim van Velzen, November 01, 2001; 03:13 A.M. Eastern

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Thanks to all for all your quick and informative comments. Another option that I have been thinking is a digital back (I know they are not out there yet, or at least not affordable), but this if for those what ifs, or just in case.

I am interested on starting a Medium Format System that in short is

cheap but able to expand. I have some basic requirement: 1) No Fixed

Lens (preferable Modular) 2) Reliable 3) Affordable (around $2000)4)

No TLR. Most of the threads that I have read recommend buying used

Hasselblads, Mamiya, or Rollei, but just the name screams HIGH

PRICE. Though I don't doubt that they are really great cameras.

I don't want to get a TLR, because most current models aren't. I

would like to have a Hasselblad-like system (or whatever you think is

the best), so that if I can afford it in my next life I can make an

easy switch. I am interested on exploring the other not so well

known MF systems like Bronica, Pentax, Fuji (maybe even Kiev???), but

no Segulls please.

Since I am new to the MF world, I would like some help putting

together a basic system. Unless, all I need is just a body & lens,

but Im sure some systems have some nice add ons that I am not aware.

I guess I am trying to go with a "lower" brand so that I can get more

bang for my buck, but also realizing that this might as well be IT.

If you think that Hasselblad or Rollei are really worth double the

money, please let me know exactly why??? Besides a name, I really

don't know much.

There is no way that this ELAN 7 would be a replacement for the EOS

5. For one why should a semi-pro be content with features that the

Rebel 2000 can offer as well. The EOS 5 replacement should give you

a better than 7 points focus though I will take the 35 zone

metering. ANyway, I am still holding by breath for the new EOS 5.